Chronicling food, wine, music &; Manchester United through the lens of a professional bar jockey. Covering everything from events to recipes to wine tasting notes, The Red Devil is all about spreading the gospel of hedonism. We are your bartender in hell.
"I'm not a motherf*@cker! I have never F@#cked a mother my entire life! Yeah she was 42 but she didnt have any kids!"
Such was the ravings of the surly old englishman sitting beside me barside at the Football Factory as I was taking in Spurs humiliating defeat at Craven Cottage in their 4th round derby FA Cup tie. Oddly enough he'd go on to swoon over Adele and wax poetic about rollerskating to Whitney Houston in UK rollerdiscos back in 1986. Hard to believe from such rusty urban confines, I was merely an hour away from a majestic tour through romantic wine country. Its easy to forget about the world outside Toronto's urban sprawl but while summertime sees countless thousands sit for hours in traffic to escape to cottage country, far too many forget that we have our very own Napa Valley at our doorstep.
It remains one of my greatest pet peeves, that while Niagara wines are making waves worldwide (including winning some major competitions), most of us here in Ontario treat our treasured wine country like the ugly step child. It baffles me to no end that most restaurant consumers will gladly splash $150 for an average bottle of Red Burgundy while spectacular Niagara pinots are often available at half that price. Naturally much of this stems from the painful memories many of us have our first Niagara wine experiences. But that god awful bottle of Jackson Triggs you picked up at a Wine Rack half a dozen years back is not at all a reflection of the growing roster of talented producers unleashing worldclass juice for those lucky of us to get over our inferiority complex.
The vinyards at De Sousa in January
I left behind the ruffians from FA Cup matchday and hopped into a car bound for wine country. My good friend Naomi Laurie studied winemaking in Niagara and was my tour guide for the days tastings. Newly certified as a Court of Master Sommelier and friends with many of the best wine people in the Niagara region, there was no one better to take the lead and we were on course for the best Niagara has to offer.
We began our day in our mutually favourite appelation in the region, The Beamsville Bench. It was remarkable to drive along into the rolling vinyards and note 3 of my favorite producers, Hidden Bench, 30 Bench, and Rosewood, all located within a 6-iron's reach of eachother. Truly this is some special terrain and highlights the need to refine our simplistic AVA system here in the region. We'd later spend some time grabbing wine chemistry text books from an aspiring wine maker whose current project was just that, to redefine more accurately the Niagara appelations using a massive accumulation of data he's been compiling.
2007 La Brunante
We began the day in the finest of style at Hidden Bench. One of the regions most highly touted wineries was a perfect way to kickstart the pallette. Naomi began with their Fume Blanc which does a much finer cool climate tribute to the Loire Valley than Mondavi ever managed with coining the term in California. I started with their rare 2009 Viognier, which sadly lacked that floral attack that typically balances so well against the acidity in the best examples of this grape. I could see why they keep it to themselves. We moved on to the pinots. 2008 Estate Pinot Noir and the 2007 Locust Lane Pino Noir. Surprisingly enough, the younger and cheaper Estate bottle outshined its single vinyard cousin by miles. When one considers how much better the 2007 vintage was compared to the 2008 vintage it is an even more staggering feat. Yet this perhaps highlights a theory that here in Ontario, where the terroir and vinyard sizes differ greatly from Burgundy, blending "estate" wines from many vinyards produces better product than what can be achieved with single vinyard growths. Regardless, the public's affinity for single vinyard "status" allows those in the "know" to grab much better value on "Estate" series wines. We finished the day with their two meritage blends, the 2008 Terroir Cache and the 2007 La Brunante. Both prove to be bold and fantastic, though side by side, the superiority of the premium La Brunante shines through. The superior vintage certainly plays a part with any Ontario wine that features Cabernet Sauvignon (why do we still grow it here?), but I believe the blend also plays a part, with Cabernet Sauv taking a backseat in the La Brunante behind Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec (all three of which grow MUCH better here in Ontario...especially cab franc...my obsession).
2008 Tawse Cabernet Franc
Our next stop along the path was to Tawse, which is quickly becoming my favourite Ontario producer. While their spectacular winery trumpets the big money behind the operation, their commitment to quality in EVERY bottle reflects that there is passion to back up that investment. While again I have often trumpeted the need in Ontario to show more FOCUS on a few grapes, Tawse remains an anomaly that produces a vast array of grapes and somehow does all of them well. I began with a perfect reminder of this with their Robyn's Block Chardonnay. A Big, beautiful and buttery masterpiece. And I say this as someone who prefers unoaked chardonnays or the subtle treatments of classic white burgundy. It reminds me of David Ramey's line, which again, though nothing like my style of chardonnay, remains stunning nonetheless. We move along to the rieslings, which run on both styles of the grape, both dry and fruit forward. For me though its the reds I've been salivating over and we begin with the spot on 2008 Cherry Avenue Pinot Noir. The stewed fruit dances atop the divinely earthy bottom end in a perfect representation of this most elusive animal, the pinot noir. We move on to the David's Block Merlot, another rock solid meal in a glass. We finish with the wine that first ignited my love of this estate, their Cabernet Franc. Over the years I've come to believe that not only is Cabernet Franc the ultimate food wine, but that it could very well be Ontario's flagship down the road, as we already do it better here than they do in its birthplace in the Loire Valley. The Tawse is amongst the best their is. Velvety smooth, it coats the mouth with its enourmous girth, only to give way to a deliciously balanced vegetal side that makes it so flexible in food pairings. I dont leave without some home stock of this guy.
After two heavyweights, we decide on the need to try some value wines, and thus began the Andrzej Lipinksy portion of our tour. Andrzej is one of Niagara's storied winemakers, whose journey has seen him making waves at Vineland, De Sousa, Organized Crime, Megalomaniac, Fielding, Foreign Affair and most recently at Colaneri. He is one of the pioneering forces behind producing Amarone style wines known as appassimento here in Ontario. Naomi has worked closely with Andrzej over the years and we dedicate the remainder of our day searching out his wines.
The De Sousa Estate
This takes us to the De Sousa Wine Cellars, which is a delightful value estate with a unique history. Originally committed to making Portugese grapes and styles here in Ontario, they were for many years the only Ontario port that ACTUALLY tasted like port. The family was eventually bought out by Diamond and the focus has shifted slightly, but you can see the Portugese heritage throughout the property. We were dissapointed to taste their current port offering, which had indeed shifted back to tasting like fortified Ontario Cab instead of true Port. The excitement cranked up when we found a few bottles of Andrzej era Cabernet Franc from 2006 that had been recently found in some hidden crate in the warehouse. Priced for clearence I grabbed a pair for $10 apiece.
Next was famed Appassimento flagship, Foreign Affair, where Andrzej made the style arrive here in Niagara. While the wines are no doubt delicious, they simply price themselves out of desirability. Which is too bad because this style of wine lends itself very well here. The only truly dissapointing wine was the Sauvignon Blanc which was actually quite swampy (surprising in our cool climate region) and flat. While their roster of wines were otherwise exceptional, I couldnt help but feel each one would be better at half the price. The appassimento styled Cabernet Franc, even though it had been opened for days, was still a masterpiece of picture perfect cab franc esconced in a chocolate robe. Yet at $110, I just couldnt see myself buying in. Further, the vintages bottled that were post Andrzej were noticably less stunning than those bottled by him.
Colaneri Estate Winery
We finished our day with a mad rush to Andrzej's current home pitch, Colaneri. Located just across the way from another of my favorite producers, Chateau Des Charmes, the estate here is a stunning take on an old world estate. Out back are the old tobacco kiln's (wisely bought up as ginseng has taken up so many thousands of tobacco acres) in which they dry out the grapes for Lipinky's signature style. The tasting room overlooks the fermenting tanks and barrel rooms in the confines of what feels like a mideval castle. What we soon disover is that Colaneri continues to represent a stunning winemaking lineage, but at prices that are far more fan friendly. The 2009 Gewurtzraminer, made with 50% dried fruit, is simply remarkable. Unlike any gewurtz I've ever had it was delightful and unique. While Josko Gravner's been making headlines with his unique styles in Italy, right here in Ontario Andrzej Lipinky has made an identical achievement and at $25 a bottle, this one is available for the everyman. The 2009 Pinot Grigio is a similarly unique achievement, though lady patio seekers who yearn to sip watery grigio's all summer long be warned...this isnt your Santa Margherita. While the appassimento styled reds arent available yet in bottle, their traditional offerings display a craft and quality in the fruit, that shows once dried fruit is ready, there are heroes in the making. From the cab franc to the merlot, to the surprisingly upstart syrah, this is a winery ready to explode.
Inside Colaneri
We finished our day nerding out over wine texts and hours of passionate discourse on the future of Niagara wine. Big things are clearly here at our doorstep. What began with Clos Jordanne's internationally acclaimed 2005 chardonnay, continued through the best ever 2007 vintage and is poised to grow with the eventual arrivals of the even better 2010 vintage, is a very serious evolution in our ugly step child. With producers and winemakers growing exponentially, and a rise in public awareness it is high time to get over your prejudice and take a barrel ride over the falls.
I am incredibly proud to officially announce The Red Devil Bourbon Tasting, the premier event in an ongoing series of wine & spirit tastings we will be hosting in the months to come. The spirit of the tasting series will be to provide authentic & unbiased consumer feedback on a variety of wine and spirits.
Thursday February 3rd, an exclusive group of lucky tasters will be gathering for our debut event at The Liss Gallery in Yorkville. Maker's Mark Brand Ambassador Matt Jones will be on hand to lead the tasting and conduct a bourbon master class. The lineup of premium bourbons includes Maker's Mark, Knob Creek, Bulleit, Baker's, Basil Hayden, and Elijah Craig. Even more exciting is the event will mark the first "unofficial" tasting in CANADA of Maker's 46, the exciting new premium brand that will be hitting the shelves in your local LCBO next month. Our guests will also be provided appetizer's from the kitchen at nearby ONE Restaurant. Finally, the event is being held in conjunction with a presentation of selected works of acclaimed photographer & architect, Simeon Posen, whose work has been showcased at the National Gallery in Ottawa and who will be on hand for the tasting. The event will be covered and photographed for The Red Devil blog as well as several other media outlets.
An event of this magnitude would not be possible without the continued interest of you the readers of The Red Devil. Without any advertising, the word of mouth growth of the Red Devil has seen each of the past 2 postings garner over 500 pageviews apiece. While the coverage of the Bourbon Tasting will no doubt raise the profile of my little blog, I wanted to take an opportunity to thank those of you whove expressed an interest here in the early days of The Red Devil. You are the true hedonists that have inspired the whole thing.
So lets raise a glass. To bourbon. To the undefeated Red Devil's of Manchester United. And to you.
As our table of 7 sat moaning and clutching our overstuffed bellies, in a bittersweet tribute to our glutonous state of immobility, there was a certain level of sheer horror as we saw the staff at C5 descending upon us with 7 new dessert plates, compliments of the house. At once I was reminded of one of the most iconic scenes in the brilliant career of Monty Python, as Mr Creosote is fed just 1 more mint (wafer thin), at which point he literally explodes all over an entire fine dining room. Its an image which has stuck with me for over 20 years and sitting in the fabulously decored dining room of The Royal Ontario Museum, the paralells to our brunch table were unmistakable. As we exchanged donuts to make it appear as though everyone ate at least SOMETHING of our complimentary dessert, I half expected to be covered in someone's insides at any moment.
The "No mas" face of delightful glutony
With One Restaurant closed for 2 weeks for renovation, I was on my first day of a rather open ended staycation. Kicking things off with a sensational (if not zealously glutonous) brunch at C5, I still had little idea of what I was going to do with myself for the next 15 days. It was sitting there, at a table that had devolved from dialougue to simple gutteral moaning, and inspired by the joyous explosion of Mr Creosote, that an idea struck me. I was to embark on a 2 week oddessey through culinary exctacy. My mission was to dispell 2 myths, both of which irk me to no end.
First, the idea that eating rich and delicious fatty foods will result in a rich and unnappealing waistline. I'd shed over 20 lbs since moving to Toronto 4 years ago, and none of it had to do with cutting out fatty foods. In fact my weekly intake of such fat-tastic monstrosities as foie gras & pork fat was much higher now than when I clocked in at 215 lbs. Yet without any sort of workout regiment, I rarely, if ever weigh in over 190. I can marv down an entire Momma's pizza in one night, and yet have dicarded 10 years of size 36's for 33's. My mom says I'm quite the catch.
Second is the idea that eating great food every day is simply beyond the means of the average citizen. So demoralized are the McJob generation that we have virtually excepted the doom and gloom of Supersize Me as gospel, and that anyone falling short of six figure income is destined to suffer the horrible fate of chewing down processerd crap for their entire lives. This tragic bit of fearmongering couldnt be further from the truth. While the fine dining of 15 tears ago was an excercize in a virtual caste system, the modern chef is opening their doors to the masses with fantastic fare at affordable prices, and often in rooms that dont remind you of how poorly dressed you are. In addition, there has been a re-awakening of the home cook. Bouyed by television programming, the information age and a vastly more available market for fresh foods, an era of culinary delight in the comfort of your own home is at hand (even for a pleb like myself). With no employment (therefore income) for 2 weeks, if I could afford the oddessey I was about to embark upon, than anyone could.
It was decided. For 2 weeks, nothing but excess of the most immaculate food I could stumble upon. Each day I would document the food, as well as my activity, to demonstrate that you can go big, without getting big. And as an added obstacle, I began this adventure 2 weeks into having quit smoking. Nothing says weight gain like dropping cigarettes....right?
So this would be my Supersize Me. Or my Guinnessize Me (a remarkable independant Irish film thats tragically under distributed on this side of the Atlantic). Or my Meaning of Life.
(note: I apologize for the low res camera phone shots. I still feel self concious about being THAT guy taking food shots at a restaurant with a Nikon Cool Pics, and thus stealth shots under the guise of checking my text messages. Time to ivest in a more jounalistic camera)
DAY ONE
I'd heard for some time of the remarkable brunch being served at C5 at The ROM, so I was quite excited to begin my vacation with a group of close friends, all dressed up and ready to mow. Further it was a chance to dine with an old friend whose been cooking for the past 2 years at a Michelin star shop in London England. He loves it there, but misses the familiar Toronto tastes such as the McEwan Miso Cod. We laughed that 3 of the 7 of us had recieved the new McEwan cookbook for Christmas. Dining with Mark's personal assistant we were all promised autographs.
Charcuterie Platter - C5
We began with pastries and charcuterie, and while I've never been the biggest pastry guy, it proved a worthy vessel for the pork liver pate and the foie torchon, both of which were heavenly. While my commrades were raving about their Bacon Stuffed Pancakes, and deconstructed Huevos Rancheros, I was falling in love with the lobster ommelette with gruyere & peameal bacon on an English Muffin. I will admit that the Confit Potato Hash with chorizo, mahon & creme fraiche sounded way better than it came off on the plate. I will also admit that it didnt stop me from eating the side entirely. One of our guests ordered a tasting of their entire (and impressive) bacon menu which most certainly led to some bacon envy. Fortunately we were an assembly who all understood the value of sharing plates, a style of dining which will be a focal point when the Red Devil opens its own doors one day. By the time we finished nobody could move, which made the complimentary dessert course horrifying. Yet our commitment to delicious would not allow for anything short of force feeding ourselves. I had a sudden glimpse of the horrifying life of the goose destined to become foie...ironic given how much torchon I had ingested.
Lobster Ommlette on English Muffin - C5
As for costs, while this might have been a tad steep on its own, we were guests of the management & therefore we were looked after pretty well. Tax & tip included this one came in at $40 a head.
I finished the day off with some manual labor (got to pay the bills somehow in this period of unemployment) but as for activity, that was it
Began the day (and the experiment) weighing in at 189lbs.
DAY TWO
Still feeling the foie torchon lumbering around my belly, I began the day with a 20 minute jog around Baldwin Village. Big mistake. While I usually jog once a week or so in the spring/summer/fall, I had never done so in the below centigrade side of the calender before. Trying to catch your breath while jogging in these temperatures can only be compared to having tiny icy daggers ripping apart one's windpipe & lungs. It was decidedly more unpleasant than I could have possibly predicted & woulod certainly be my last outdoor jog until April.
I consoled myself with a walk through Kensington Market, where in spending less than $80, I picked up the entire list of groceries for everything I'd eat at home until further notice. On the menu for lunch was a fruit salad with grapes & watermelon, which was a joyous way to root on Real Madrid to victory on Derby Day over Getafe. Festooned on the couch, there was little or no activity on the cards foir this day. Beyond standing to give ovation to the return of Kaka to the Royal Blues, which they need given the absence of Higuain for the balance of the season.
Shortib Pappardelle
For dinner I was beer braising beef shortribs, which I typially pair with farfalle in a reduction of the braising liquid, with mushrooms & onions. The market was unfortunately barren of farfalle however so I improvised with papardelle noodles cut short into 11/2 inch lengths. Made enough to feed myself thoroughly & to have several days worth of leftovers.
DAY THREE
The Sandwich Board - Biff's Bistro
Kicked off Tuesday with a turkey melt on a kaiser with Le Brin cheese, swiss chard, creamy dijon & black pepper alongside a litre of chocolate milk. Chocolate milk is the medicine. Promptly followed this up with a hike across town from Baldwin Village to the Parliament Street pet shop Menagerie to pick up some gear to welcome my new pet Puffer fish, Garth Algar (party on Wayne). The dinner portion of our day would be spent at Biff's Bistro, an Oliver & Bonacini joint on Front Street. The main attraction, dollar oysters. As frightening as discount shellfish may sound. OB is a safe haven when it comes to food quality with an established brand to maintain and this is definitely one of my favorite things to do in town. Dining with an old colleague from One, we jammed down 50 delicious Atlantic oysters along with a couple of fantastic white wines. We began with an Albarinho from Vina Cartin in the Rias Baxis of Galicia, which has a geographical afftinity for the oyster. A perfect pairing. After polishing of a bottle we went to a glass each of the William Fevre "Champs Royeaux" Chablis. While of defiitely on the lower end of the Fevre catalog, the wines of this producer even at this calibre are remarkable. Still shellfish friendly, though noticably bigger than its superlight predecesor, making it the better 2nd choice. We wouldnt have tasted the albarinho had we reversed that order. Total cost for half the bill (mostly booze...hardly necessary....though fully welcomed) was $85. Loaded on 3 baskets of bread and over 2 dozen oysters each, we stumbled north to a dinner party in midtown where we soaked in more wine and picked at baked fish pie and Lindor chocolates.
Oyster Platter (1 of 3) - Biff's Bistro
DAY FOUR
Kept it simple for lunch with Harvest Crunch serial and milk with honey. But promtly decided second lunch was needed and marved on shortrib pasta leftovers. Feeling the itch to get some sort of physical activity in, I paired up for a rigorous hour long game of squash. 60 full minutes of highly competitve squash felt pretty fantastic, and for the first time since I dropped cigarrettes, I fully noticed improved lung capacity. A great feeling. Promptly rewarded with a guys night in, filled with bowling, table tennis, whiskey, beer and beef patties.
Began the day weighing in at 186 lbs.
DAY FIVE
Front Window - Porchetta and Co.
Began the day with a journey to the newest Dundas West star attraction, Porchetta and Co. Sandwich Shop. There was a palpable level of excitement there coming off of another crazy busy lunch rush as I entered. It was down to some regulars (nearby Chefs), the owner Nick Auf De Mauer, and his wife. The place was buzzing after learning North American publication giant Food And Wine magazine had contacted them. They serve only a sandwich and a soup in a primarily takeout capacity and its the exact kind of place that really makes an already outstanding upcoming neighborhood. I took down both the daily soup (today a cream of cabbage with double smoked bacon) and a porchetta sandwhich and couldnt help be taken aback by the snow falling on this Little Portugal sidewalk, thinking how appropriate it was I should be here taking in a roast pork sandwhich. I was at once reminded of my day out in another Portugese/Brazilian enclave on St. Clair West during the World Cup during the Portugal Vs. Brazil contest. While the game was a letdown, the atmosphere of the street party was amongst the greatest experiences of my life. I have a lot of portugese friends and I am constantly reminded of them all with every bite I ever eat of roast pork. Needless to say it was the most delicious of sandwiches with pork at once both creamy & crispy. At $10 for soup & sammy you just cant go wrong. This place is gonna be big. I bring home a 2nd sammy for dinner to go alongside watermelon & the last shortrib leftovers.
Porchetta Sandwich - Porchetta and Co.
I also decide upon a future blog article entitled Amy Pataki Can Sit On An Egg & Rotate.
The night went late, having gone out to check out The Five Aces live in concert. When the party returned back to my place afterward we made the call to Toronto's late night delivery institution, Sizzler's. Poutine & a bacon-cheeseburger seem a fine idea at 3am.
DAY SIX
After spending my first Christmas holiday with my family in several years a few weeks back I have had the jones for some authentic old school Hungarian cuisine. After cereal & sandwich combo (both as previously prepared) for lunch, I began simmering together the classic Hungarian vege dish, Lesco. My dad was correct by insisting the fragrances arising while you cook this dish are drenched in familiarity. Hardly the stuff of fatty delight, my simmering pan of tomato, green pepper & onions is gonna need an injection to come up to code. Good thing I've got a lb of double smoked bacon resting in the fridge. Soon its pan frying alongside the Lesco and when finished promises several sittings of delicious.
DAY SEVEN
Baldwin Village 7am the morning of FA Cup Rd 3
FA Cup weekends in England are the stuff of football legend. Rounds 3 and 4 are famous for unthinkable upsets and classic rivalries renewed. Thus I brave the morning blizzard and march down the best place in the city to catch the beautiful game, The Football Factory. Owners Pat & Chris have a terrific family thing going here with dedicated regulars, full & complete football coverage, passionate & entertaining staff and a rock solid kitchen. I'm surrounded by a gaggle of Leeds fans (clearly excited to finally have a match televised) and I dig in to my classic bacon & eggs breakfast with side of chorizo. Before I can finish off dipping through the last of the yolk the place explodes as Leeds take an unlikely lead at the Emirates. The outnumbered Gunners faithful seem to shrink before our very eyes. While a late equalizer ensures a 2nd leg in Yorkshire, the Leeds faithful are elated (including Chef Ben from One, who called screaming Leeds forever nonsense into my cellular). Breakfast & coffee for nearly 4 hours of Cup day cost $15 with tip
Factory Breakfast - Football Factory
I walk off breakfast on the way home but there was little I could do to prepare for the glutony that was to come with my first visit to Fabrica. As in other McEwan shops, I at once feel much more magnetized to the lounge than the dining room. And while this one is nowhere near as formal as Bymark or One, its more about how inviting I find the lounges at his restaurants. Sophisticated without being pompous, its just right as far as my limited sense of decor is concerned. I waste no time getting into the draft of Birra Dolomiti, a fantastic Italian beer thats light, crisp and is armed with a more dialed back and refined carbonation thats oddly reminiscent of champagne. Instantly we become friends.
The food was incredible. I began with an assortment of berkshire proscioto, polpetta (a giant marinara meatball) and some bread served with olive oil, all of which were on point. At $7 I can see that meatball being a big hit for the bar crowd. Next comes the mushroom risotto with shaved truffle. While the flavors were there, I must admit I am spoiled with the same (and superior) dish at One. Its good, but it can only stnad by and watch One's version take the title. By now I am suspiciously full, but there is more to do so I welcome out the Manzo (beef carpaccio with mustard sauce, capers, onions & piave). A good carpaccio is all about subleties as the chef blends an array of flavors in a symphony thats all about each part hitting its note. This one is a Beethoven. Everything in its place it stands as the best thing I've eaten all night. Until I arrive at the grand finale, the Chef's selection, Porchetta. This is the kind of definingf dish that makes the McEwan brand what it is. Its simple. Pork shoulder with pear mostarda & pesto, swimming in jus. But its tender in a way thats otherworldly and in its simple decadence lies culinary genius. I want every day of my life to include this dish. Though I cant help but wonder about my little experiment the next morning, when I awake, STILL FULL, from the night before.
Manzo - Fabrica
DAY EIGHT
There are few words to express the ferver over England's "Greatness Derby". There are few (if any) rivalries in sport that generate the hot-blooded animosity of Manchester United v Liverpool fixture. While I typically revel in the friendly barbs between supporters in other fixtures, coming up against Liverpool likens me to the pre-conscription soldier, hellbent on the humiliating defeat of my one true enemy. Thus the Rd 3 Cup draw versus Liverpool was the marquee matchup of the season so far. Once again I huddled at the Factory bar, this time warmed with a mass of anonymous United bretheren, whilst the wise table of Anfield scum huddled quietly in the safety of the front booths. The ageless wonder (and for my money United's all time hero) Ryan Giggs buried an early spot kick and from there on it was drink and song and screaming for the next 90 minutes. It was far from the prettiest of wins, but the heart of a champion is not defined on form alone. I press those fans of "beautiful ball" clubs like Barca & Arsenal to remember that. Believe is not a catch-phrase but a way of life.
Oh yeah...food. Drunk on the spoils of our early morning triumph, the United supporters stayed along to watch crosstown rival City blow a lead against Championship side Leicester. I passed the time with factory's bacon sandwich with egg & cheddar. By the time we got to the next match it was time for La Liga & a critical fixture between the Royal Blue Madridistas and Villareal. Barca fan Hugo, the bartender, playfully threatened to broadcast a third FA Cup draw instead of Madrid garbage, but now drunk on triumph AS WELL AS pints, I would not be denied. While I was disheartened by 2 Villareal scores, and an absence of Ray Hudson (read Jesus) on the mic, I was most definitely lifted by a huge helping of BBQ pork ribs in Guiness sauce. It occurred to me that I may have consumed an entire pig this week. In the end, Ronaldo's hat trick & Kaka's finale lifted Mourinho's boys to victory and sent us stumbling into the afternoon on a high note. But it was more a waddle....as I definitely had gone the ay of the walrus these past 2 days.
Dinner was late as I was stuffed from the days regiment, and was leftover Lesco & bacon with a side of bumbleberry pie..
DAY NINE
Bagel + Lox - Drake Hotel
A long overdue return to the squash court. I had dialed up the glutony and muted the activity quite a bit the past 2 days. Squash, a soak and a sweat were just what the doctor ordered. My reward was a visit to the Drake Hotel to visit a dear friend, pastry chef Karen Vineberg. While a bagel & lox sounds the healthy choice, all those carbs & cream cheese have to count for something right? No matter, because the smoked salmon, greens & capers were the tastiest breakfast I'd had all week. For dessert, I stuck with my Homer Simpson instincts which buzzed like a fatman's spidey sense at the word donut. Karen's doughnut bread pudding with hot chocolate was superfluous with a side of orgasmic (take that Ray Hudson). She had most definitely improved on the already massively popular recipe she once served at One.
Doughnut Bread Pudding - Drake Hotel
While dinner was supposed to be at Duggan's Brew Pub (for the Mcewan staff Christmas party), a few colleagues gathered at my place for warmup beverages and a dose of Hank Moody (having downloaded the first 2 episodes of Californication Season 4). The natural compliment was to ring up Mama's Pizza. Party size with Goat Cheese Garlic & Pinnaple dissappeared in no time and soon enough we were shaking off that pizza dough on the Nintendo Wii with samba Di Amigo & body contact bowling (I have shady & aggressive friends).
Began the day weighing in at 187 (a surprise given how glutonous I actually felt).
DAY TEN
For lunch I finished off 2 slices that survived the night before and began making my stock for my final home cooked dinner piece. The end result would be Truffle Mac n Cheese with Orecicchiete, mushrooms, swiss raclettte, truffle oil & topped with slices of pan seared scallop. Rich and warm in every way, its a perfect winter pasta for a sedintary night inside the house when its minus 20 degrees outside.I also dabbled in the grotesque world of cinema food. By far the worst thing I ate all week, the hotdog and nacho combo at Varsity Theatre reminded me why I DON'T eat like the common man.
DAY ELEVEN
Returned to Porchetta and Co. Something about having a slow roasted pork shoulder...thats wrapped in prosciuto, and then wrapped in house cured pork belly...on a fresh baked bun...with truffle mayo...yeah I shouldnt need to go on. Its fantastic.
Cream of Cabbage Soup - Porchetta and Co.
Dinner was a return to my favorite new shop in the city, Marben. Chef Carl runs a fantastic operation centered around foodies. Their Chef's table sits literally into the kitchen, allowing them to chat with you throughout your meal, about what your eating and beyond. The menu is constantly changing, and they genuinely enjoy learning about what their guests like and dont like about the food.
I had arrived early and as if to prove my previous statement, they bring me a new dish they were considering for the next menu. A fennel and radish salad with grapefruit, ranch dressing, cured trout and topped with a cheese croquette. Before I knew it, one of the chefs was at the table asking whether or not there was too much grapefruit.
"The Spread" - Marben
Once everyone arrived and was armed with a glass of Cava, the food began to pour out of the kitchen. Oyster's from Rodney's, an impressive housemade charcuterie platter, a literally to die for squash soup. It wasnt until the arrival of the mushroom spaezle that I had anything I didnt love. We rolled on to the chicken ballotine, which is hands down the best chicken dish I've had in any restaurant. Then came the gnocchi, the trout and the signature dish, the burger stuffed with braised shortribs. By the time the 2 fantastic dessert platters arrived, I was transported full circle back to that brunch at C5. That feeling somewhere between satisfaction and explosion. My brain was powering down...so forgive me if I cant remember exactly what those 2 delicious desserts were...but trust that they were delicious. We finished the last of our Tawse Cab Franc (I'm sure I have written of it before on this blog....but yeah...this one is a home run in any crowd. A true Canadian fan favorite) and made our way to the frozen tundra.
While fit to burst at any moment, my night was far from over. I had 3 hours of dancing ahead of me, which would be the last true excersize of my 2 week experiment. My squash partners were tied up the fiollowing days so this was it. From KRS-One to Q Tip to Mase...well I never stopped dancing. It was the kind of night that cant help pour out into the street and before I knew it a contingent were back at my place armed with late night liquor and singalongs to Smokey & The Miracles.
DAY TWELVE
Its safe to say exhaustion was setting in. My vacation was beginning to wear me down. I took a bed day. Ordered a Panormous Pepperoni from Pizza Hut and spent the balance of the day in my bed. If you have a problem with that...well sounds like your problem.
DAY THIRTEEN & FOURTEEN
My culinary experiment had reached its pinnacle the past few days and my grocries & finances had reached their closing bell. Leftovers closed out the affair from pizza to mac n cheese. One glorious highlight was the return volley from my roomate (and G20 media darling, Sir Adam Nobody) who so enjoyed my shortrib pappardelle, he insisted I dive into his dinner of grilled pork chops with chicken gravy. Pizza Hut wasn't finished with me either, as the universe (or restaurant management) decided that staff meal for the crew working to rebuild ONE after the floor renovation would be none other than a stack of heaping boxes of Hut.
Nobody's Pork Chop
Which brings me to the activities. While there wasnt much cardio happening I did spend 9 hours on a 4-man crew lugging the entirety of our restaurant (tables, chairs, wine, liquor, ornaments etc) up from the basement and into the dining area. I dont know that did anything for the waistline, but I learned that in the right circumstance, both wet snow and marble can actually be the bane of my existance. I also packed in a pair of ridiculous dancing nights into my experimental swan song, so cardio wasnt abandoned altogether (even if about a dozen pounds of waterweight may have been).
FINAL WEIGH IN: 185 lbs.
Conclusions:
Well my first conclusion is how spoiled we are here in Toronto for food. As a culinary community we often suffer an inferiority complex next to the Londons and New Yorks of the world but whether or not we realize it ourselves we are on the map. And while we may lack the mega fare of Keller and Boulud, most of those are beyond the means of the every day citizen anyhow. Yet for those who can spend $15-$75 a meal there is ENDLESS choice of outstanding and world class options. Its not just the food I had here, but the food I DIDN'T get around to. From Grindhouse to the Hoof to to Buca and literally DOZENS of others we are suffering and embaressment of riches.
But thats not really the point of this. How was my bank account? Well I survived pretty famously for 2 weeks on under $100 in groceries. While there was a couple of heavy hitter evenings at Marben, C5 and Fabrica, all of those places are doable under $50 so long as you stick to a couple of courses. Beyond that everything I ate rang in around the $20 mark. Not so bad considering what most of you probably spend in takeout.
Even more amazing. I actually lost 4 pounds. Further I literally spelled out every activity of a physical nature. 1 jog, a couple days of lifting, 2 games of squash, 4 nights of dancing and a handful of walks hardly constitutes and over active lifestyle. Its a pretty comfortable one actually, thats quite enamored with my couch. It just goes to show with the most minimal effort and a sense of balance you can do just about whatever you want in this life without going the way of the walrus.
The point on the weight side is nothing, positive OR negative happens over night. Getting into the shape you are most comfortable in is a process that takes a great deal of time. The forces that carved Niagara Falls didnt achieve that greatness in even hundreds of human lifetimes. In the same light we cannot expect to gain or lose weight in noticeable increments. So live a little. Because when we're done it should have at least been some fun. THAT my friends, is my meaning of life.
Before I begin I'd like to thank a few people who made this possible. First Adam Newton, whose concept this is (though dont worry dude, your SPECIFIC Sommeliers Guide is still in the works...research is a bitch) and second to Trish Hernandez who departs the team at ONE as a legend and her continued interest in my scribbles over the years has always kept me going. And yeah....here we go...2010 was probably the best year for overall number of quality records in the past 4 years. Still very few I would call classics but 40 plus records that will stay in my regular rotation for years to come. Here's my guide to the best of the best, complete with wine pairings to elevate that listening experience to the next level. Dig in.
1. PLAN B - The Defamation of Strickland Banks PAIRING - 1986 Chateau Palmer
Hands down the best record of the year, Plan B's musical reinvention is an awe-inspiring journey back to the glory days of Motown, through a more seasoned lens. His soul concept album literally evokes the ghost of Smokey Robinson at every turn, leaning only in small (and remarkably well placed) doses of the hip hop stylings of his previous work.
Having been described as an iron fist in a velvet glove, the wines of the Bordeaux appelation Margeaux are the perfect pairing for a record that thumps with the aggression of a football hooligan and soars with the grace of gospel song. And the 86 Palmer is the best I ever tasted.
2. THE BLACK KEYS - Brothers PAIRING - Chateneuf Du Pape
A record that fully built upon the foundation of their Danger Mouse collaboration, Attack and Release and enshrined the blues rockers with their very own place in the musical landscape. While their early records show the promise it was these past 2 records where they really found themselves and have delivered some of their best work. If I had one complaint about Brothers is that it fades towards the back half of the record, but its hits are so big I'll forgive the overindulgence.
The pairing of the flagship wine of the Rhone Valley is a simple tribute to its ability to reflect the grimey roots of its rural origins, while dusting off a snappy sophistication that proves irrisistible to the tidiest hipster d-bag. I also just described this record.
Its a worthy achievement for an artist to unleash a proper throwback record. Its tried all the time but to truly piece together a progressive record that evokes the spirit previous era without sounding contrived is something of an elusive artistic statement. Then I met the Drums, whose whimsical journey through the 1980's is as much Delorean as it is Geo Metro.
The cocktail that blends Italian aperatif Aperol with Sparkling wine is every bit as romantic as it is rambunctious. A blend that plays to this record like crude oil to the Gulf of Mexico.
I was convinced that after Feed The Animals, that Girl Talk would fade from memory. Afterall, how could you possibly amass another collection of dancefloor classics old and new, that would mashup just so delightfully. A proper followup was the stuff of daydreamers, not practical in the slightest. Apparently Billy Pilgrim HAS become unstuck in time. Who knew?
As for the pairing, Sangria is the ultimate mashup, and fuels the sort of silly dancefloor antics that this record makes in spades.
5. J COLE - Friday Night Lights PAIRING - Moet Mimosas
Fans of old school/east coast/concious hip hop have taken delight in the new Roc Nation label of Jay Z. His primary signings, Jay Electronica and J Cole (you have to wonder if he's making room for J-Live or resurrecting J-Dilla from the grave) deliver the type of lyrical flow thats entirely absent from the cryptwalking autotune garbage of radio hip hop. Cole's mixtape picks up right where his bumpin summer single "Who Dat" left off and from front to back this record just doesnt stop.
As for the mimosas...if its good enough for Jay-Z, its good enough for me.
Quite simply Damon Albarn is the Ryan Giggs of modern music. Never the best player of his time, yet still able to deliver reliable top quality material, day in and day out for over 2 decades. There is a workmanlike charm beneath the sleek creativity that set Albarn apart in the same way United's alltime warrior stands on the shoulders of giants. From catchy jingles to morse code, this record is everything you have come to expect from the Gorillaz.
In gewurtz you have a wine that explodes in tropical sweetness, yet bites with a peppery bite in all the right places. It makes it the ultimate pairing with Thai cuisine...and considering my last phad thai was enjoyed with Melancholy Hill quietly rolling along in the background, I'm gonna go ahead and vouch for this one.
7. METHOD MAN/GHOSTFACE KILLAH/RAEKWON - Wu Massacre PAIRING - Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Napa Cabernet
Wu nation certainly had a banner year with this years edition of Rock The Bells featuring a fully reunited Wu Tang Clan (complete with Ol Dirty's son stepping in for his late father). Less acclaimed, yet no less incredible was this effort from half of the Wu camp. Meth and Ghostface continue to be the lyrical juggernauts of the Clan and are in fine form here amidst a compilation of some of the grimiest beats assembled since 36 Chambers. Picture yourself running the streets of Shaolin from the backseat of a 1970's Lincoln and you'll be right at home.
Diamond Creek's Volcanic Hill cab is the definitive picture of strength with irreverence that subtly betrays its underlying class. Ripe fruit riddled with the smokey minerality of a gangland driveby. The perfect partner for a Wu-Massacre.
Its a rare feat in punk hardcore to rekindle the fire of a classic record. Of my favorite hardcore bands, from Bane to Raised Fist to Another Breath are case studies in bands who find that magic spark for one beautifully angry record, and spend a career chasing that dragon. Canada's best kept secret Comeback Kid were well on their way down that road. Sure their live shows have never lost a step, replete with intensity & fury that could be tasted. But their records have always been a shadow of the greatness of Wake The Dead. That is until this fall when they unleashed a record that gets better and better with every listen. Furious pace, gang vocals, social commentary and relentless beat are all fused in just the right places and before I'm done with it, I might just rank it higher than Wake The Dead.
For the pairing I'm suggesting the best kept secret in Canadian wine, the Cabernet Franc from Tawse. A beautiful vegetal side reminiscent of its Loire Valley roots, combined with the bold strength thats come to define the new world. A masterpiece.
It was a pretty great year for electronic music. Though MGMT dropped the biggest ball since Bill Buckner, the likes of Caribou, LCD Soundsystem, The Chemical Brothers and The Scissor Sisters were on point with fantastic and frenetic dancefloor classics. Yet for my money the best of the bunch is right here with Holy Fuck. and quite literally....Holy Fuck.
In keeping with the "latin" theme, and every bit the crisp light bodied effervescence of dancefloor rocketfuel, there is the one and only take on Albarinho....VINHO VERDE!
10. PORTUGAL THE MAN - American Ghetto PAIRING - Carmenere
The continuing musical evolution of Alaska's best export has been an impressive journey. The fusion of sounds from across the soundscape really comes into its own on their latest endeavor and stands as their best record to date. Infinitely catchy and altogether unique, American Ghetto is a must have.
In pairing with the Carmenere the focus is on this grapes ability to be easily drinkable, yet buoyed by a rich depth beneath the surface. Inviting at first glace, yet with the layers to keep you coming, its not unlike the girl you are going to marry.
Its been a long time since Clarity and Bleed American, and in that time the genuine sincerity of a proper Jimmy Eat World recird has been sorely missed in the musical arena. They turn back the clock with their latest record and its truely a return to form that so endeared them to us in the first place. Cut might be the most hauntingly beautiful track of the year (though sadly blocked on youtube). But the whole spin is enough charm to keep you coming back over and over.
Built for youth and easy to drink are the big selling points for Argentina's goldenboy grape. Couldnt think of a better descriptor for Invented either.
A strange year for Bedouin Soundclash in which their frontman's debut solo record outscored their own full length record in every possible way. From the reflective to the charming, this record is an emotive journey with such classics as Songs Never Sung and a redux of the pre-radio Bedouin anthem Santa Monica.
A record suitable for an Italian poet composing his darkest opus...and you better believe he'd be drowning in the ultimate Italian table wine.
13. CEE LO GREEN - The Lady Killer PAIRING - Sauternes
The summer of 2010 will long be remembered for the viral explosion of Cee Lo's breakup anthem Fuck You. With tens of millions of youtube views within a week, it was an atomic bomb of pop music that even the most hardened music snob couldnt help but hum along to. The ensuing record is probably his best work to date, offering plenty to the listener to remind that he aint no one trick pony. In particular Old Fashioned might just be the ultimate expression of the soul man in this young century.
Sauternes is a world of its own. A classic and just like Cee Lo's love, Its right on time. Its timeless. Sugary sweet but with a steely backbone, it is a perfect expression of a man's proper love of a woman.
14. THE SLACKERS - The Great Rocksteady Swindle PAIRING - Vouvray
I've long given up the hope that the world might once again be blessed with a classic record the likes of Redlight. But after a decided lull, the past 2 records have been a clear return to form for the hardest working ska band in North America. Long gone are the circus themes of Peculiar, and once again they tread the comfortable waters that made records like the Question, Redlight and Wasted Days such classics.
The Chenin blanc of Vouvray are a mainstay throughout the Parisian bistros...and listening to the Slackers has the power to take you there.
15. THE NEW PORNOGRAPHERS - Together PAIRING - Red Burgundy
For me 2010 is the year I finally figured out how to like albums by bands that I had previously had no use for. All buzz bands for the past number of years, The Arcade Fire, My Chemical Romance and The New Pornographers were all artists I just couldnt seem to enjoy. Suddenly came their new records and I find myself wondering was it just me finally opening my ears or did these artists all turn some corner with their new material? In the case of the Arcade Fire & The Pornographers it was probably my own stubborn breed of music snobbery that lends itself far more affinitively to the Gaslight Anthems of the world. Though in the case of MCR its definitely a case of maturing and finally producing a record that brings forth the talent they've long supressed with goth-riddled schlock. In the end it really doesnt matter, cuz if you arent listening to records for pure hedonistic bliss you belong somewhere else my friend.
I pair this record with red burgundy for the elusive sophistication that sets apart the finest pinot noir from the rest. This record spins that same tightrope between subtle greatness and irrelevance that makes an instant classic.
16. AM TAXI - We Dont Stand A Chance PAIRINGS - Lots of beer.
In a year where bands like Against Me! and The Gaslight Anthem did little to impress the new hoards of fans of the beard-clad, Nu-Springsteen folk punk circuit, newcomers AM Taxi deliver a pretty solid debut in this vein. Plenty of beer drinking and broken hearted anthems for the working class punk crowd. Not of the class of Chuck Ragan, but in a year where even the Alkaline Trio couldnt get it quite right....that'll do pig...
I never thought I'd never see the day I would put an Angels & Airwaves record on a best list. First, as a Blink fan I resent this bands existence. Second, as a man, I resent appearing like a giant vagina. Alas much like the debut from the All American Rejects years back, this is has etched its way into my guilty pleasures exemption. While they've stumbled to find an identity in their past records, this one comes together with the epic cohesion of U2 records when they didnt suck (read Joshua Tree/Rattle & Hum). The result is like falling in love for the first time.
For fans of RJD2 and Cut Chemist, whove grown tired of awaiting solid new material from either. Maniac Meat hits the long devoid spot in the cockles of our hearts for electronic, jazz infused hip hop beats without MC's to go ahead and ruin everything. Note the Beck cameos.
My favorite Spanish wine region is notably difficult to farm, but the rewards are some of the most delicious grenache known to man. I find it a perfect compliment to mining the rugged terrain of underground beats.
19. LIL BROTHER - Left Back PAIRING - Super Tuscans
No fan of LB will argue that Left Back is their best work. That said, repeated listens unveil a score of tracks that hit hard with their famed atmosphere backing another legitimate lyrical onslaught.
In the spirit of never settling on your laurels, I'm pairing Lil Brother to the winemakers who pioneered the Super Tuscans & IGT when they werent content to rest upon the DOCG laurels of Chianti. When you continue to push, the results are greatness.
20. THE KINGS OF NUTHIN - Old Habits Die Hard PAIRINGS - Makers Mark Bourbon.
My biggest dissapointment as a concert promoter was my inability to overcome this bands legal issues and get them over the border for a Guelph show. Getting down to Boston to see them in their hometown is still on the life's top 10 to do list. They do nothing to change the formula here. Hard nosed rockabilly for the drunk and disorderly.
THE BEST OF THE REST - Didnt make the cut, but still worthy of cellaring.
The Damned Things
The Roots
Alkaline Trio
Cancer Bats
Caribou
Crime In Stereo
Spoon
Vampire Weekend
Cypress Hill
LCD Soundsystem
Two Door Cinema Club
The Flatliners
The Bouncing Souls
The Scissor Sisters
The Chemical Brothers
Foxy Shazam
Broken Bells
Avenged Sevenfold
Arcade Fire
As I Lay Dying
My Chemical Romance
Nas and Damian Marley
The National
Atmosphere
J-Live
Ghostface Killah
Bad Religion
Titus Andronicus
RECORDS THAT SUCKED AS THEY CUT
Four Year Strong
MGMT
Gaslight Anthem
The Hold Steady
Morcheeba
MIA
Bedouin Soundclash
Weezer
The Bled
Kanye West
Tokyo Police Club
Underoath
Well....thats it for 2010. All is well as we end the year. United at the top of the table...delicious food in our bellies...may the next year be as good for us all!
There is one inherant problem with success, which simply put, is success itself. In English football this can be seen in the meteoric rise of obscure clubs to the lofty heights of the Premier League, only to realize they have not the grounds nor the resources to compete, leading to the demoralizing crash of relegation. In trendy new charcuterie bars there lies the danger of selling your meats faster than you can cure them. In the world of wine it manifests in gaining the demand to earn a spot in the hallowed grounds of the LCBO general list, only to buckle under the strain of mass production that renders your new vintages into vinegar. Walking past the hoards filling an entire convention hall, merely queing for upwards of 3 hours just to gain entry to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, it was clear that we were seeing an event that grown a tad to big for its britches. The sight of thousands slowly staggering through the que was more like a scene from a zombie apocalypse than a trade show.
Once inside things didnt fare much better, for overcapacity seemd a term absent from the organizer's vocabulary. The shoulder to shoulder action was more akin to a WWF Battle Royal trapped in an MC Escher canvas. I half expected at any minute to turn a corner to find Randy Savage snappin into a SlimJim and throwing me over some unforseen turnbuckle. Though to be fair, this was just as likely latent fear from being tackled on camera at last years Expo by MTV correspondent Sheena, who was attempting to wrestle away my Das Boot.
Granted, there was some culinary delights through each swarm of thirsty travellers...venison shortribs, succulent lobster snacks, pulled pork sliders...but none of it seemed worth risking a Camel Clutch for your troubles. By the time the tribal drums began thumping, inciting gaggles of denim-clad cougars to imagine themselves as Shakira, the floor began to resemble the chaos of the carribean carnival depicted in Hunter Thompson's Rum Diary. Finally, we sought refuge in the cozy confines of the Alexander Keiths tent, enjoying dice games & their new Harvest Ale ( a remarkably interesting dark ale...a surprise from the brewery that single handedly bastardized the term India Pale Ale.). Between that and dollar doubles of Rickards Dark with Le Brin cheese chunks, we soon realized there was little we could do but drink our faces off. Not that there is anything wrong with that. Come to this event expecting the sloppy circus of an Oktoberfest and you'll do just fine. But for the more discerning alcoholic there was little solace inside the storm.
The problem however runs far deeper than the over-population in the South Hall at the Metro Convention Centre. The root of this grimey fungus, lies within the show's wine focus on listings from an afforementioned big for its britches animal. the LCBO's General List. Its hard to blame the vendors. Given the cost of the rental space for an event of this stature, it makes little economic sense to peddle in wines that run for limited releases. Even the epic portfolios the likes of Lifford are reduced to their most unworthy (yet widely available) wines.
While the large majority of Lifford's impressive catalog is filled with consignment & limited release bottlings, their spread at the Expo was, for obvious reasons, stacked with their more widely available offerings. We began with a pretty nice prosseco from Santa Margherita, whose better known for their solid, if unremarkable pinot grigio. That said, cheap, uninspriring, but safe is exactly why people flock to both varieties. Here is where mass production does little to damage a reputation in that there is little reputation to plunder. We were spoiled here to try the best wine of the night with a taste of the exceptional Cabernet from Cakebread. Big, round yet oozing with elegance, this is the archetypal Napa Cab, and every bit worth the slew of tickets a taste demanded. We finished at Lifford with a house that absolutely exemplifies the peril of garnering success and sales, Louis Jadot. Their general label Burgundy was fair enough in the world of affordable pinot noir, but I out and out refused to subject our group to the Beaujelais-Villages from Jadot. Simply put this wine has gone down hill in each successive vintage since it earned a spot on the Vintage Essentials roster. While the agent defended this slide by citing vintage problems, I countered by pointing out that Jadot's Cru Beauj offerings from the Chateau Jacques label have remained outstanding through this period, elevating the Gamay nearly into pinot calibre. He remained insistant that over production was not an issue and challenged me to try the Village releases from 2010. We agreed to disagree and left in appreciation of the rare opportunity to chat about Cru Beauj.
I was pleasantly surprised to see my favourite estate on the Beamsville Bench, Rosewood offering nearly their full catalog. They gained a sizable buzz with their award winning 2007 Pinot Noir and stand as a rare combination Winery & Meadery. We began with the 2008 Pinot, which showed significant decline from its '07 predecessor. That said 2007 was a standout vintage while 2008 was anything but. Combine the increased demand from their newly aquired buzz, a lousy vintage, and dealing with the appropriately named heartbreak grape, one can let this dissapointment slide without pause. From there the dissapointment was over. Their 2009 Semillon was even better than the 2008 vintage I had enjoyed so much, carried by a powerful minerality and absolutely bubbling over with melon, peach, lemongrass and gooseberries. Also a winner was the 2008 Natalie's Riesling, which both floral, approachable and bone dry, exemplifies Ontario's natural ability to produce world class Riesling. We finished off the impressive tasting with their Mead Royale, made from 100% estate honey. Syrupy sweet with every bit of the balancing acidity that define the classic dessert wines, this one is a keeper.
The perils of general list offerings was nowhere more obvious than our visit to the Wines Of Spain booth. We approached with a level of excitement given the Spanish commitment to quality. But here, absent of the limited release goldmines of Priorat and the heavy hitters like Muga, our choices were less spectacular. Having recently gorged on an offering from Haza, and being a longtime fan of the Portugese side of the region, we began with a Ribeiro Del Duero. Our boredom was palpable. Next, we ventured for a Grenache, long my favorite of the red grapes. It bordered on undrinkable. Finally we left our fate in the hands of the agent asking for his choice as their best in show wine. The Rioja WAS drinkable, but barely, recalling the confines of Jackson Triggs....or Welch's.
And here lies in the true catch 22 of the LCBO's general list. To provide wines that are mass produced enough to be readily available at all locations, requires a reduction in quality that taints the true hedonistic pleasure of wine. One needs only to see once reliable labels like Goats Do Roam and Wolf Blass to see the strain of maintaining that production. Take Masi's Campofiorin, the original RIPASSO, whose 2007 vintage, arguably the best for the style, fall flat on its face. Further wines like Fuzion, or Yellowtail, which remain as they began, overproduced bargain wines with little to offer the distinguished pallette. Yet its this very ability to be recognizable that is required by the general list in the first place. A friend recently asked me for a suggestion for a slightly sweet off dry white wine, noting he was at a small LCBO. By that very shopping location I was handcuffed at what I could suggest, offering the pedestrian Pirerre Sparr Gewurtztraminer. Passable, yes. Available, yes. But shouldnt we be able to do better?
The good news is you can. With just a little bit of effort and some regular visitations to large Vintages sections, one can quickly begin huilding a library of superior wines that they are familiar and comfortable with. Better yet you can learn that you dont have to break the bank. Worst case, there are some easy general list and Vintages Essentials that ARE decent and reliable. Try your luck with Perrin's Cote Du Rhone, Sogrape's Gazela & Matues Signature, Berringer's Stone Cellars Cab, Montalto's Pinot Grigio, Chateau Des Charmes 2007 Pinot Noir, and Sella & Mosca's Cannonau Di Sardigna. All reliable, affordable, and readily available wines that can help set your beginner's cellar apart from the general malaise of the general list.
As for the Expo...bring your toga's and have some fun.
