Once inside things didnt fare much better, for overcapacity seemd a term absent from the organizer's vocabulary. The shoulder to shoulder action was more akin to a WWF Battle Royal trapped in an MC Escher canvas. I half expected at any minute to turn a corner to find Randy Savage snappin into a SlimJim and throwing me over some unforseen turnbuckle. Though to be fair, this was just as likely latent fear from being tackled on camera at last years Expo by MTV correspondent Sheena, who was attempting to wrestle away my Das Boot.
Granted, there was some culinary delights through each swarm of thirsty travellers...venison shortribs, succulent lobster snacks, pulled pork sliders...but none of it seemed worth risking a Camel Clutch for your troubles. By the time the tribal drums began thumping, inciting gaggles of denim-clad cougars to imagine themselves as Shakira, the floor began to resemble the chaos of the carribean carnival depicted in Hunter Thompson's Rum Diary. Finally, we sought refuge in the cozy confines of the Alexander Keiths tent, enjoying dice games & their new Harvest Ale ( a remarkably interesting dark ale...a surprise from the brewery that single handedly bastardized the term India Pale Ale.). Between that and dollar doubles of Rickards Dark with Le Brin cheese chunks, we soon realized there was little we could do but drink our faces off. Not that there is anything wrong with that. Come to this event expecting the sloppy circus of an Oktoberfest and you'll do just fine. But for the more discerning alcoholic there was little solace inside the storm.
While the large majority of Lifford's impressive catalog is filled with consignment & limited release bottlings, their spread at the Expo was, for obvious reasons, stacked with their more widely available offerings. We began with a pretty nice prosseco from Santa Margherita, whose better known for their solid, if unremarkable pinot grigio. That said, cheap, uninspriring, but safe is exactly why people flock to both varieties. Here is where mass production does little to damage a reputation in that there is little reputation to plunder. We were spoiled here to try the best wine of the night with a taste of the exceptional Cabernet from Cakebread. Big, round yet oozing with elegance, this is the archetypal Napa Cab, and every bit worth the slew of tickets a taste demanded. We finished at Lifford with a house that absolutely exemplifies the peril of garnering success and sales, Louis Jadot. Their general label Burgundy was fair enough in the world of affordable pinot noir, but I out and out refused to subject our group to the Beaujelais-Villages from Jadot. Simply put this wine has gone down hill in each successive vintage since it earned a spot on the Vintage Essentials roster. While the agent defended this slide by citing vintage problems, I countered by pointing out that Jadot's Cru Beauj offerings from the Chateau Jacques label have remained outstanding through this period, elevating the Gamay nearly into pinot calibre. He remained insistant that over production was not an issue and challenged me to try the Village releases from 2010. We agreed to disagree and left in appreciation of the rare opportunity to chat about Cru Beauj.
I was pleasantly surprised to see my favourite estate on the Beamsville Bench, Rosewood offering nearly their full catalog. They gained a sizable buzz with their award winning 2007 Pinot Noir and stand as a rare combination Winery & Meadery. We began with the 2008 Pinot, which showed significant decline from its '07 predecessor. That said 2007 was a standout vintage while 2008 was anything but. Combine the increased demand from their newly aquired buzz, a lousy vintage, and dealing with the appropriately named heartbreak grape, one can let this dissapointment slide without pause. From there the dissapointment was over. Their 2009 Semillon was even better than the 2008 vintage I had enjoyed so much, carried by a powerful minerality and absolutely bubbling over with melon, peach, lemongrass and gooseberries. Also a winner was the 2008 Natalie's Riesling, which both floral, approachable and bone dry, exemplifies Ontario's natural ability to produce world class Riesling. We finished off the impressive tasting with their Mead Royale, made from 100% estate honey. Syrupy sweet with every bit of the balancing acidity that define the classic dessert wines, this one is a keeper.
The perils of general list offerings was nowhere more obvious than our visit to the Wines Of Spain booth. We approached with a level of excitement given the Spanish commitment to quality. But here, absent of the limited release goldmines of Priorat and the heavy hitters like Muga, our choices were less spectacular. Having recently gorged on an offering from Haza, and being a longtime fan of the Portugese side of the region, we began with a Ribeiro Del Duero. Our boredom was palpable. Next, we ventured for a Grenache, long my favorite of the red grapes. It bordered on undrinkable. Finally we left our fate in the hands of the agent asking for his choice as their best in show wine. The Rioja WAS drinkable, but barely, recalling the confines of Jackson Triggs....or Welch's.
And here lies in the true catch 22 of the LCBO's general list. To provide wines that are mass produced enough to be readily available at all locations, requires a reduction in quality that taints the true hedonistic pleasure of wine. One needs only to see once reliable labels like Goats Do Roam and Wolf Blass to see the strain of maintaining that production. Take Masi's Campofiorin, the original RIPASSO, whose 2007 vintage, arguably the best for the style, fall flat on its face. Further wines like Fuzion, or Yellowtail, which remain as they began, overproduced bargain wines with little to offer the distinguished pallette. Yet its this very ability to be recognizable that is required by the general list in the first place. A friend recently asked me for a suggestion for a slightly sweet off dry white wine, noting he was at a small LCBO. By that very shopping location I was handcuffed at what I could suggest, offering the pedestrian Pirerre Sparr Gewurtztraminer. Passable, yes. Available, yes. But shouldnt we be able to do better?
The good news is you can. With just a little bit of effort and some regular visitations to large Vintages sections, one can quickly begin huilding a library of superior wines that they are familiar and comfortable with. Better yet you can learn that you dont have to break the bank. Worst case, there are some easy general list and Vintages Essentials that ARE decent and reliable. Try your luck with Perrin's Cote Du Rhone, Sogrape's Gazela & Matues Signature, Berringer's Stone Cellars Cab, Montalto's Pinot Grigio, Chateau Des Charmes 2007 Pinot Noir, and Sella & Mosca's Cannonau Di Sardigna. All reliable, affordable, and readily available wines that can help set your beginner's cellar apart from the general malaise of the general list.
As for the Expo...bring your toga's and have some fun.
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