The Meaning of Life

As our table of 7 sat moaning and clutching our overstuffed bellies, in a bittersweet tribute to our glutonous state of immobility, there was a certain level of sheer horror as we saw the staff at C5 descending upon us with 7 new dessert plates, compliments of the house. At once I was reminded of one of the most iconic scenes in the brilliant career of Monty Python, as Mr Creosote is fed just 1 more mint (wafer thin), at which point he literally explodes all over an entire fine dining room. Its an image which has stuck with me for over 20 years and sitting in the fabulously decored dining room of The Royal Ontario Museum, the paralells to our brunch table were unmistakable. As we exchanged donuts to make it appear as though everyone ate at least SOMETHING of our complimentary dessert, I half expected to be covered in someone's insides at any moment.

The "No mas" face of delightful glutony

With One Restaurant closed for 2 weeks for renovation, I was on my first day of a rather open ended staycation. Kicking things off with a sensational (if not zealously glutonous) brunch at C5, I still had little idea of what I was going to do with myself for the next 15 days. It was sitting there, at a table that had devolved from dialougue to simple gutteral moaning, and inspired by the joyous explosion of Mr Creosote, that an idea struck me. I was to embark on a 2 week oddessey through culinary exctacy. My mission was to dispell 2 myths, both of which irk me to no end.

First, the idea that eating rich and delicious fatty foods will result in a rich and unnappealing waistline. I'd shed over 20 lbs since moving to Toronto 4 years ago, and none of it had to do with cutting out fatty foods. In fact my weekly intake of such fat-tastic monstrosities as foie gras & pork fat was much higher now than when I clocked in at 215 lbs. Yet without any sort of workout regiment, I rarely, if ever weigh in over 190. I can marv down an entire Momma's pizza in one night, and yet have dicarded 10 years of size 36's for 33's. My mom says I'm quite the catch.

Second is the idea that eating great food every day is simply beyond the means of the average citizen. So demoralized are the McJob generation that we have virtually excepted the doom and gloom of Supersize Me as gospel, and that anyone falling short of six figure income is destined to suffer the horrible fate of chewing down processerd crap for their entire lives. This tragic bit of fearmongering couldnt be further from the truth. While the fine dining of 15 tears ago was an excercize in a virtual caste system, the modern chef is opening their doors to the masses with fantastic fare at affordable prices, and often in rooms that dont remind you of how poorly dressed you are. In addition, there has been a re-awakening of the home cook. Bouyed by television programming, the information age and a vastly more available market for fresh foods, an era of culinary delight in the comfort of your own home is at hand (even for a pleb like myself). With no employment (therefore income) for 2 weeks, if I could afford the oddessey I was about to embark upon, than anyone could.

It was decided. For 2 weeks, nothing but excess of the most immaculate food I could stumble upon. Each day I would document the food, as well as my activity, to demonstrate that you can go big, without getting big. And as an added obstacle, I began this adventure 2 weeks into having quit smoking. Nothing says weight gain like dropping cigarettes....right?

So this would be my Supersize Me. Or my Guinnessize Me (a remarkable independant Irish film thats tragically under distributed on this side of the Atlantic). Or my Meaning of Life.

(note: I apologize for the low res camera phone shots. I still feel self concious about being THAT guy taking food shots at a restaurant with a Nikon Cool Pics, and thus stealth shots under the guise of checking my text messages. Time to ivest in a more jounalistic camera)

DAY ONE

I'd heard for some time of the remarkable brunch being served at C5 at The ROM, so I was quite excited to begin my vacation with a group of close friends, all dressed up and ready to mow. Further it was a chance to dine with an old friend whose been cooking for the past 2 years at a Michelin star shop in London England. He loves it there, but misses the familiar Toronto tastes such as the McEwan Miso Cod. We laughed that 3 of the 7 of us had recieved the new McEwan cookbook for Christmas. Dining with Mark's personal assistant we were all promised autographs.

Charcuterie Platter - C5

We began with pastries and charcuterie, and while I've never been the biggest pastry guy, it proved a worthy vessel for the pork liver pate and the foie torchon, both of which were heavenly. While my commrades were raving about their Bacon Stuffed Pancakes, and deconstructed Huevos Rancheros, I was falling in love with the lobster ommelette with gruyere & peameal bacon on an English Muffin. I will admit that the Confit Potato Hash with chorizo, mahon & creme fraiche sounded way better than it came off on the plate. I will also admit that it didnt stop me from eating the side entirely. One of our guests ordered a tasting of their entire (and impressive) bacon menu which most certainly led to some bacon envy. Fortunately we were an assembly who all understood the value of sharing plates, a style of dining which will be a focal point when the Red Devil opens its own doors one day. By the time we finished nobody could move, which made the complimentary dessert course horrifying. Yet our commitment to delicious would not allow for anything short of force feeding ourselves. I had a sudden glimpse of the horrifying life of the goose destined to become foie...ironic given how much torchon I had ingested.

Lobster Ommlette on English Muffin - C5

As for costs, while this might have been a tad steep on its own, we were guests of the management & therefore we were looked after pretty well. Tax & tip included this one came in at $40 a head.

I finished the day off with some manual labor (got to pay the bills somehow in this period of unemployment) but as for activity, that was it

Began the day (and the experiment) weighing in at 189lbs.

DAY TWO

Still feeling the foie torchon lumbering around my belly, I began the day with a 20 minute jog around Baldwin Village. Big mistake. While I usually jog once a week or so in the spring/summer/fall, I had never done so in the below centigrade side of the calender before. Trying to catch your breath while jogging in these temperatures can only be compared to having tiny icy daggers ripping apart one's windpipe & lungs. It was decidedly more unpleasant than I could have possibly predicted & woulod certainly be my last outdoor jog until April.

I consoled myself with a walk through Kensington Market, where in spending less than $80, I picked up the entire list of groceries for everything I'd eat at home until further notice. On the menu for lunch was a fruit salad with grapes & watermelon, which was a joyous way to root on Real Madrid to victory on Derby Day over Getafe. Festooned on the couch, there was little or no activity on the cards foir this day. Beyond standing to give ovation to the return of Kaka to the Royal Blues, which they need given the absence of Higuain for the balance of the season.

Shortib Pappardelle

For dinner I was beer braising beef shortribs, which I typially pair with farfalle in a reduction of the braising liquid, with mushrooms & onions. The market was unfortunately barren of farfalle however so I improvised with papardelle noodles cut short into 11/2 inch lengths. Made enough to feed myself thoroughly & to have several days worth of leftovers.

DAY THREE

The Sandwich Board - Biff's Bistro

Kicked off Tuesday with a turkey melt on a kaiser with Le Brin cheese, swiss chard, creamy dijon & black pepper alongside a litre of chocolate milk. Chocolate milk is the medicine. Promptly followed this up with a hike across town from Baldwin Village to the Parliament Street pet shop Menagerie to pick up some gear to welcome my new pet Puffer fish, Garth Algar (party on Wayne). The dinner portion of our day would be spent at Biff's Bistro, an Oliver & Bonacini joint on Front Street. The main attraction, dollar oysters. As frightening as discount shellfish may sound. OB is a safe haven when it comes to food quality with an established brand to maintain and this is definitely one of my favorite things to do in town. Dining with an old colleague from One, we jammed down 50 delicious Atlantic oysters along with a couple of fantastic white wines. We began with an Albarinho from Vina Cartin in the Rias Baxis of Galicia, which has a geographical afftinity for the oyster. A perfect pairing. After polishing of a bottle we went to a glass each of the William Fevre "Champs Royeaux" Chablis. While of defiitely on the lower end of the Fevre catalog, the wines of this producer even at this calibre are remarkable. Still shellfish friendly, though noticably bigger than its superlight predecesor, making it the better 2nd choice. We wouldnt have tasted the albarinho had we reversed that order. Total cost for half the bill (mostly booze...hardly necessary....though fully welcomed) was $85. Loaded on 3 baskets of bread and over 2 dozen oysters each, we stumbled north to a dinner party in midtown where we soaked in more wine and picked at baked fish pie and Lindor chocolates.

Oyster Platter (1 of 3) - Biff's Bistro

DAY FOUR

Kept it simple for lunch with Harvest Crunch serial and milk with honey. But promtly decided second lunch was needed and marved on shortrib pasta leftovers. Feeling the itch to get some sort of physical activity in, I paired up for a rigorous hour long game of squash. 60 full minutes of highly competitve squash felt pretty fantastic, and for the first time since I dropped cigarrettes, I fully noticed improved lung capacity. A great feeling. Promptly rewarded with a guys night in, filled with bowling, table tennis, whiskey, beer and beef patties.

Began the day weighing in at 186 lbs.

DAY FIVE

Front Window - Porchetta and Co.

Began the day with a journey to the newest Dundas West star attraction, Porchetta and Co. Sandwich Shop. There was a palpable level of excitement there coming off of another crazy busy lunch rush as I entered. It was down to some regulars (nearby Chefs), the owner Nick Auf De Mauer, and his wife. The place was buzzing after learning North American publication giant Food And Wine magazine had contacted them. They serve only a sandwich and a soup in a primarily takeout capacity and its the exact kind of place that really makes an already outstanding upcoming neighborhood. I took down both the daily soup (today a cream of cabbage with double smoked bacon) and a porchetta sandwhich and couldnt help be taken aback by the snow falling on this Little Portugal sidewalk, thinking how appropriate it was I should be here taking in a roast pork sandwhich. I was at once reminded of my day out in another Portugese/Brazilian enclave on St. Clair West during the World Cup during the Portugal Vs. Brazil contest. While the game was a letdown, the atmosphere of the street party was amongst the greatest experiences of my life. I have a lot of portugese friends and I am constantly reminded of them all with every bite I ever eat of roast pork. Needless to say it was the most delicious of sandwiches with pork at once both creamy & crispy. At $10 for soup & sammy you just cant go wrong. This place is gonna be big. I bring home a 2nd sammy for dinner to go alongside watermelon & the last shortrib leftovers.

Porchetta Sandwich - Porchetta and Co.

I also decide upon a future blog article entitled Amy Pataki Can Sit On An Egg & Rotate.

The night went late, having gone out to check out The Five Aces live in concert. When the party returned back to my place afterward we made the call to Toronto's late night delivery institution, Sizzler's. Poutine & a bacon-cheeseburger seem a fine idea at 3am.

DAY SIX

After spending my first Christmas holiday with my family in several years a few weeks back I have had the jones for some authentic old school Hungarian cuisine. After cereal & sandwich combo (both as previously prepared) for lunch, I began simmering together the classic Hungarian vege dish, Lesco. My dad was correct by insisting the fragrances arising while you cook this dish are drenched in familiarity. Hardly the stuff of fatty delight, my simmering pan of tomato, green pepper & onions is gonna need an injection to come up to code. Good thing I've got a lb of double smoked bacon resting in the fridge. Soon its pan frying alongside the Lesco and when finished promises several sittings of delicious.
 

DAY SEVEN

Baldwin Village 7am the morning of FA Cup Rd 3

FA Cup weekends in England are the stuff of football legend. Rounds 3 and 4 are famous for unthinkable upsets and classic rivalries renewed. Thus I brave the morning blizzard and march down the best place in the city to catch the beautiful game, The Football Factory. Owners Pat & Chris have a terrific family thing going here with dedicated regulars, full & complete football coverage, passionate & entertaining staff and a rock solid kitchen. I'm surrounded by a gaggle of Leeds fans (clearly excited to finally have a match televised) and I dig in to my classic bacon & eggs breakfast with side of chorizo. Before I can finish off dipping through the last of the yolk the place explodes as Leeds take an unlikely lead at the Emirates. The outnumbered Gunners faithful seem to shrink before our very eyes. While a late equalizer ensures a 2nd leg in Yorkshire, the Leeds faithful are elated (including Chef Ben from One, who called screaming Leeds forever nonsense into my cellular). Breakfast & coffee for nearly 4 hours of Cup day cost $15 with tip

Factory Breakfast - Football Factory

I walk off breakfast on the way home but there was little I could do to prepare for the glutony that was to come with my first visit to Fabrica. As in other McEwan shops, I at once feel much more magnetized to the lounge than the dining room. And while this one is nowhere near as formal as Bymark or One, its more about how inviting I find the lounges at his restaurants. Sophisticated without being pompous, its just right as far as my limited sense of decor is concerned. I waste no time getting into the draft of Birra Dolomiti, a fantastic Italian beer thats light, crisp and is armed with a more dialed back and refined carbonation thats oddly reminiscent of champagne. Instantly we become friends.

Birra Dolomitti w/ Mushroom & Truffle Risotto - Fabrica

The food was incredible. I began with an assortment of berkshire proscioto, polpetta (a giant marinara meatball) and some bread served with olive oil, all of which were on point. At $7 I can see that meatball being a big hit for the bar crowd. Next comes the mushroom risotto with shaved truffle. While the flavors were there, I must admit I am spoiled with the same (and superior) dish at One. Its good, but it can only stnad by and watch One's version take the title. By now I am suspiciously full, but there is more to do so I welcome out the Manzo (beef carpaccio with mustard sauce, capers, onions & piave). A good carpaccio is all about subleties as the chef blends an array of flavors in a symphony thats all about each part hitting its note. This one is a Beethoven. Everything in its place it stands as the best thing I've eaten all night. Until I arrive at the grand finale, the Chef's selection, Porchetta. This is the kind of definingf dish that makes the McEwan brand what it is. Its simple. Pork shoulder with pear mostarda & pesto, swimming in jus. But its tender in a way thats otherworldly and in its simple decadence lies culinary genius. I want every day of my life to include this dish. Though I cant help but wonder about my little experiment the next morning, when I awake, STILL FULL, from the night before.

Manzo - Fabrica

DAY EIGHT

There are few words to express the ferver over England's "Greatness Derby". There are few (if any) rivalries in sport that generate the hot-blooded animosity of Manchester United v Liverpool fixture. While I typically revel in the friendly barbs between supporters in other fixtures, coming up against Liverpool likens me to the pre-conscription soldier, hellbent on the humiliating defeat of my one true enemy. Thus the Rd 3 Cup draw versus Liverpool was the marquee matchup of the season so far. Once again I huddled at the Factory bar, this time warmed with a mass of anonymous United bretheren, whilst the wise table of Anfield scum huddled quietly in the safety of the front booths. The ageless wonder (and for my money United's all time hero) Ryan Giggs buried an early spot kick and from there on it was drink and song and screaming for the next 90 minutes. It was far from the prettiest of wins, but the heart of a champion is not defined on form alone. I press those fans of "beautiful ball" clubs like Barca & Arsenal to remember that. Believe is not a catch-phrase but a way of life.

Oh yeah...food. Drunk on the spoils of our early morning triumph, the United supporters stayed along to watch crosstown rival City blow a lead against Championship side Leicester. I passed the time with factory's bacon sandwich with egg & cheddar. By the time we got to the next match it was time for La Liga & a critical fixture between the Royal Blue Madridistas and Villareal. Barca fan Hugo, the bartender, playfully threatened to broadcast a third FA Cup draw instead of Madrid garbage, but now drunk on triumph AS WELL AS pints, I would not be denied. While I was disheartened by 2 Villareal scores, and an absence of Ray Hudson (read Jesus) on the mic, I was most definitely lifted by a huge helping of BBQ pork ribs in Guiness sauce. It occurred to me that I may have consumed an entire pig this week. In the end, Ronaldo's hat trick & Kaka's finale lifted Mourinho's boys to victory and sent us stumbling into the afternoon on a high note. But it was more a waddle....as I definitely had gone the ay of the walrus these past 2 days.

Dinner was late as I was stuffed from the days regiment, and was leftover Lesco & bacon with a side of bumbleberry pie..

DAY NINE

Bagel + Lox - Drake Hotel

A long overdue return to the squash court. I had dialed up the glutony and muted the activity quite a bit the past 2 days. Squash, a soak and a sweat were just what the doctor ordered. My reward was a visit to the Drake Hotel to visit a dear friend, pastry chef Karen Vineberg. While a bagel & lox sounds the healthy choice, all those carbs & cream cheese have to count for something right? No matter, because the smoked salmon, greens & capers were the tastiest breakfast I'd had all week. For dessert, I stuck with my Homer Simpson instincts which buzzed like a fatman's spidey sense at the word donut. Karen's doughnut bread pudding with hot chocolate was superfluous with a side of orgasmic (take that Ray Hudson). She had most definitely improved on the already massively popular recipe she once served at One.

Doughnut Bread Pudding - Drake Hotel

While dinner was supposed to be at Duggan's Brew Pub (for the Mcewan staff Christmas party), a few colleagues gathered at my place for warmup beverages and a dose of Hank Moody (having downloaded the first 2 episodes of Californication Season 4). The natural compliment was to ring up Mama's Pizza. Party size with Goat Cheese Garlic & Pinnaple dissappeared in no time and soon enough we were shaking off that pizza dough on the Nintendo Wii with samba Di Amigo & body contact bowling (I have shady & aggressive friends).

Began the day weighing in at 187 (a surprise given how glutonous I actually felt).

DAY TEN

For lunch I finished off 2 slices that survived the night before and began making my stock for my final home cooked dinner piece. The end result would be Truffle Mac n Cheese with Orecicchiete, mushrooms, swiss raclettte, truffle oil & topped with slices of pan seared scallop. Rich and warm in every way, its a perfect winter pasta for a sedintary night inside the house when its minus 20 degrees outside.I also dabbled in the grotesque world of cinema food. By far the worst thing I ate all week, the hotdog and nacho combo at Varsity Theatre reminded me why I DON'T eat like the common man.

DAY ELEVEN

Returned to Porchetta and Co. Something about having a slow roasted pork shoulder...thats wrapped in prosciuto, and then wrapped in house cured pork belly...on a fresh baked bun...with truffle mayo...yeah I shouldnt need to go on. Its fantastic.

Cream of Cabbage Soup - Porchetta and Co.

Dinner was a return to my favorite new shop in the city, Marben. Chef Carl runs a fantastic operation centered around foodies. Their Chef's table sits literally into the kitchen, allowing them to chat with you throughout your meal, about what your eating and beyond. The menu is constantly changing, and they genuinely enjoy learning about what their guests like and dont like about the food.

I had arrived early and as if to prove my previous statement, they bring me a new dish they were considering for the next menu. A fennel and radish salad with grapefruit, ranch dressing, cured trout and topped with a cheese croquette. Before I knew it, one of the chefs was at the table asking whether or not there was too much grapefruit.

"The Spread" - Marben

Once everyone arrived and was armed with a glass of Cava, the food began to pour out of the kitchen. Oyster's from Rodney's, an impressive housemade charcuterie platter, a literally to die for squash soup. It wasnt until the arrival of the mushroom spaezle that I had anything I didnt love. We rolled on to the chicken ballotine, which is hands down the best chicken dish I've had in any restaurant. Then came the gnocchi, the trout and the signature dish, the burger stuffed with braised shortribs. By the time the 2 fantastic dessert platters arrived, I was transported full circle back to that brunch at C5. That feeling somewhere between satisfaction and explosion. My brain was powering down...so forgive me if I cant remember exactly what those 2 delicious desserts were...but trust that they were delicious. We finished the last of our Tawse Cab Franc (I'm sure I have written of it before on this blog....but yeah...this one is a home run in any crowd. A true Canadian fan favorite) and made our way to the frozen tundra.

While fit to burst at any moment, my night was far from over. I had 3 hours of dancing ahead of me, which would be the last true excersize of my 2 week experiment. My squash partners were tied up the fiollowing days so this was it. From KRS-One to Q Tip to Mase...well I never stopped dancing. It was the kind of night that cant help pour out into the street and before I knew it a contingent were back at my place armed with late night liquor and singalongs to Smokey & The Miracles.

DAY TWELVE

Its safe to say exhaustion was setting in. My vacation was beginning to wear me down. I took a bed day. Ordered a Panormous Pepperoni from Pizza Hut and spent the balance of the day in my bed. If you have a problem with that...well sounds like your problem.

DAY THIRTEEN & FOURTEEN

 My culinary experiment had reached its pinnacle the past few days and my grocries & finances had reached their closing bell. Leftovers closed out the affair from pizza to mac n cheese. One glorious highlight was the return volley from my roomate (and G20 media darling, Sir Adam Nobody) who so enjoyed my shortrib pappardelle, he insisted I dive into his dinner of grilled pork chops with chicken gravy. Pizza Hut wasn't finished with me either, as the universe (or restaurant management) decided that staff meal for the crew working to rebuild ONE after the floor renovation would be none other than a stack of heaping boxes of Hut.

Nobody's Pork Chop

Which brings me to the activities. While there wasnt much cardio happening I did spend 9 hours on a 4-man crew lugging the entirety of our restaurant (tables, chairs, wine, liquor, ornaments etc) up from the basement and into the dining area. I dont know that did anything for the waistline, but I learned that in the right circumstance, both wet snow and marble can actually be the bane of my existance. I also packed in a pair of ridiculous dancing nights into my experimental swan song, so cardio wasnt abandoned altogether (even if about a dozen pounds of waterweight may have been).


FINAL WEIGH IN: 185 lbs.

Conclusions:

Well my first conclusion is how spoiled we are here in Toronto for food. As a culinary community we often suffer an inferiority complex next to the Londons and New Yorks of the world but whether or not we realize it ourselves we are on the map. And while we may lack the mega fare of Keller and Boulud, most of those are beyond the means of the every day citizen anyhow. Yet for those who can spend $15-$75 a meal there is ENDLESS choice of outstanding and world class options. Its not just the food I had here, but the food I DIDN'T get around to. From Grindhouse to the Hoof to to Buca and literally DOZENS of others we are suffering and embaressment of riches.

But thats not really the point of this. How was my bank account? Well I survived pretty famously for 2 weeks on under $100 in groceries. While there was a couple of heavy hitter evenings at Marben, C5 and Fabrica, all of those places are doable under $50 so long as you stick to a couple of courses. Beyond that everything I ate rang in around the $20 mark. Not so bad considering what most of you probably spend in takeout.

Even more amazing. I actually lost 4 pounds. Further I literally spelled out every activity of a physical nature. 1 jog, a couple days of lifting, 2 games of squash, 4 nights of dancing and a handful of walks hardly constitutes and over active lifestyle. Its a pretty comfortable one actually, thats quite enamored with my couch. It just goes to show with the most minimal effort and a sense of balance you can do just about whatever you want in this life without going the way of the walrus.

The point on the weight side is nothing, positive OR negative happens over night. Getting into the shape you are most comfortable in is a process that takes a great deal of time. The forces that carved Niagara Falls didnt achieve that greatness in even hundreds of human lifetimes. In the same light we cannot expect to gain or lose weight in noticeable increments. So live a little. Because when we're done it should have at least been some fun. THAT my friends, is my meaning of life.

The Sommeliers Guide to The Best Records of 2010

Before I begin I'd like to thank a few people who made this possible. First Adam Newton, whose concept this is (though dont worry dude, your SPECIFIC Sommeliers Guide is still in the works...research is a bitch) and second to Trish Hernandez who departs the team at ONE as a legend and her continued interest in my scribbles over the years has always kept me going. And yeah....here we go...2010 was probably the best year for overall number of quality records in the past 4 years. Still very few I would call classics but 40 plus records that will stay in my regular rotation for years to come. Here's my guide to the best of the best, complete with wine pairings to elevate that listening experience to the next level. Dig in.



1. PLAN B - The Defamation of Strickland Banks
    PAIRING - 1986 Chateau Palmer

Hands down the best record of the year, Plan B's musical reinvention is an awe-inspiring journey back to the glory days of Motown, through a more seasoned lens. His soul concept album literally evokes the ghost of Smokey Robinson at every turn, leaning only in small (and remarkably well placed) doses of the hip hop stylings of his previous work.

Having been described as an iron fist in a velvet glove, the wines of the Bordeaux appelation Margeaux are the perfect pairing for a record that thumps with the aggression of a football hooligan and soars with the grace of gospel song. And the 86 Palmer is the best I ever tasted.

Plan B - Stay Too Long
Plan B - Traded In My Cigarettes

2. THE BLACK KEYS - Brothers
    PAIRING - Chateneuf Du Pape

A record that fully built upon the foundation of their Danger Mouse collaboration, Attack and Release and enshrined the blues rockers with their very own place in the musical landscape. While their early records show the promise it was these past 2 records where they really found themselves and have delivered some of their best work. If I had one complaint about Brothers is that it fades towards the back half of the record, but its hits are so big I'll forgive the overindulgence.

The pairing of the flagship wine of the Rhone Valley is a simple tribute to its ability to reflect the grimey roots of its rural origins, while dusting off a snappy sophistication that proves irrisistible to the tidiest hipster d-bag. I also just described this record.

 The Black Keys - Next Girl

3. THE DRUMS - The Drums
    PAIRING - Aperol Spritz

Its a worthy achievement for an artist to unleash a proper throwback record. Its tried all the time but to truly piece together a progressive record that evokes the spirit previous era without sounding contrived is something of an elusive artistic statement. Then I met the Drums, whose whimsical journey through the 1980's is as much Delorean as it is Geo Metro.

The cocktail that blends Italian aperatif Aperol with Sparkling wine is every bit as romantic as it is rambunctious. A blend that plays to this record like crude oil to the Gulf of Mexico.

The Drums - Down By The Water

4. GIRL TALK - All Day
    PAIRING - Sangria

I was convinced that after Feed The Animals, that Girl Talk would fade from memory. Afterall, how could you possibly amass another collection of dancefloor classics old and new, that would mashup just so delightfully. A proper followup was the stuff of daydreamers, not practical in the slightest. Apparently Billy Pilgrim HAS become unstuck in time. Who knew?

As for the pairing, Sangria is the ultimate mashup, and fuels the sort of silly dancefloor antics that this record makes in spades.

Girl Talk - This Is The Remix

5. J COLE - Friday Night Lights
    PAIRING - Moet Mimosas

Fans of old school/east coast/concious hip hop have taken delight in the new Roc Nation label of Jay Z. His primary signings, Jay Electronica and J Cole (you have to wonder if he's making room for J-Live or resurrecting J-Dilla from the grave) deliver the type of lyrical flow thats entirely absent from the cryptwalking autotune garbage of radio hip hop. Cole's mixtape picks up right where his bumpin summer single "Who Dat" left off and from front to back this record just doesnt stop.

As for the mimosas...if its good enough for Jay-Z, its good enough for me.

J Cole ft. Drake - In the Morning

6. GORILLAZ - Plastic Beach
    PAIRING - Gewurtztraminer

Quite simply Damon Albarn is the Ryan Giggs of modern music. Never the best player of his time, yet still able to deliver reliable top quality material, day in and day out for over 2 decades. There is a workmanlike charm beneath the sleek creativity that set Albarn apart in the same way United's alltime warrior stands on the shoulders of giants. From catchy jingles to morse code, this record is everything you have come to expect from the Gorillaz.

In gewurtz you have a wine that explodes in tropical sweetness, yet bites with a peppery bite in all the right places. It makes it the ultimate pairing with Thai cuisine...and considering my last phad thai was enjoyed with Melancholy Hill quietly rolling along in the background, I'm gonna go ahead and vouch for this one.

Gorillaz - Glitter Freeze

BONUS TRACK - FOR THOSE WHO LIKED THIS, Check out THIS.

The latest Danger Mouse collaboration is a none so subtle tip of the hat to Gorillaz stylie. A worthy footnote in the evolving world of rock and roll.

The Broken Bells - The Ghost Inside

7. METHOD MAN/GHOSTFACE KILLAH/RAEKWON - Wu Massacre
    PAIRING - Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Napa Cabernet

Wu nation certainly had a banner year with this years edition of Rock The Bells featuring a fully reunited Wu Tang Clan (complete with Ol Dirty's son stepping in for his late father). Less acclaimed, yet no less incredible was this effort from half of the Wu camp. Meth and Ghostface continue to be the lyrical juggernauts of the Clan and are in fine form here amidst a compilation of some of the grimiest beats assembled since 36 Chambers. Picture yourself running the streets of Shaolin from the backseat of a 1970's Lincoln and you'll be right at home.

Diamond Creek's Volcanic Hill cab is the definitive picture of strength with irreverence that subtly betrays its underlying class. Ripe fruit riddled with the smokey minerality of a gangland driveby. The perfect partner for a Wu-Massacre.

Method Man, Ghostface Killah & Raekwon - Pimpin Chipp

8. COMEBACK KID - Symptoms & Cures
    PAIRINGS - Tawse Cabernet Franc

Its a rare feat in punk hardcore to rekindle the fire of a classic record. Of my favorite hardcore bands, from Bane to Raised Fist to Another Breath are case studies in bands who find that magic spark for one beautifully angry record, and spend a career chasing that dragon. Canada's best kept secret Comeback Kid were well on their way down that road. Sure their live shows have never lost a step, replete with intensity & fury that could be tasted. But their records have always been a shadow of the greatness of Wake The Dead. That is until this fall when they unleashed a record that gets better and better with every listen. Furious pace, gang vocals, social commentary and relentless beat are all fused in just the right places and before I'm done with it, I might just rank it higher than Wake The Dead.

For the pairing I'm suggesting the best kept secret in Canadian wine, the Cabernet Franc from Tawse. A beautiful vegetal side reminiscent of its Loire Valley roots, combined with the bold strength thats come to define the new world. A masterpiece.

Comeback Kid - GM Vincent & I

9. HOLY FUCK - Latin
    PAIRING - Vinho Verde

It was a pretty great year for electronic music. Though MGMT dropped the biggest ball since Bill Buckner, the likes of Caribou, LCD Soundsystem, The Chemical Brothers and The Scissor Sisters were on point with fantastic and frenetic dancefloor classics. Yet for my money the best of the bunch is right here with Holy Fuck. and quite literally....Holy Fuck.

In keeping with the "latin" theme, and every bit the crisp light bodied effervescence of dancefloor rocketfuel, there is the one and only take on Albarinho....VINHO VERDE!

Holy Fuck - Latin America
Holy Fuck - Red Lights

10. PORTUGAL THE MAN - American Ghetto
     PAIRING - Carmenere

The continuing musical evolution of Alaska's best export has been an impressive journey. The fusion of sounds from across the soundscape really comes into its own on their latest endeavor and stands as their best record to date. Infinitely catchy and altogether unique, American Ghetto is a must have.

In pairing with the Carmenere the focus is on this grapes ability to be easily drinkable, yet buoyed by a rich depth beneath the surface. Inviting at first glace, yet with the layers to keep you coming, its not unlike the girl you are going to marry.

Portugal The Man - All My People

11. JIMMY EAT WORLD - Invented
     PAIRING - Malbec

Its been a long time since Clarity and Bleed American, and in that time the genuine sincerity of a proper Jimmy Eat World recird has been sorely missed in the musical arena. They turn back the clock with their latest record and its truely a return to form that so endeared them to us in the first place. Cut might be the most hauntingly beautiful track of the year (though sadly blocked on youtube). But the whole spin is enough charm to keep you coming back over and over.

Built for youth and easy to drink are the big selling points for Argentina's goldenboy grape. Couldnt think of a better descriptor for Invented either.

Jimmy Eat World - Heart Is Hard To Find

12. JAY MALINOWSKI - Bright Lights & Bruises
     PAIRING - Barbera D'Asti

A strange year for Bedouin Soundclash in which their frontman's debut solo record outscored their own full length record in every possible way. From the reflective to the charming, this record is an emotive journey with such classics as Songs Never Sung and a redux of the pre-radio Bedouin anthem Santa Monica.

A record suitable for an Italian poet composing his darkest opus...and you better believe he'd be drowning in the ultimate Italian table wine.

Jay Malinowski - There's a Light

13. CEE LO GREEN - The Lady Killer
     PAIRING - Sauternes

The summer of 2010 will long be remembered for the viral explosion of Cee Lo's breakup anthem Fuck You. With tens of millions of youtube views within a week, it was an atomic bomb of pop music that even the most hardened music snob couldnt help but hum along to. The ensuing record is probably his best work to date, offering plenty to the listener to remind that he aint no one trick pony. In particular Old Fashioned might just be the ultimate expression of the soul man in this young century.

Sauternes is a world of its own. A classic and just like Cee Lo's love, Its right on time. Its timeless. Sugary sweet but with a steely backbone, it is a perfect expression of a man's proper love of a woman.

Cee Lo Green - Old Fashioned

14. THE SLACKERS - The Great Rocksteady Swindle
     PAIRING - Vouvray

I've long given up the hope that the world might once again be blessed with a classic record the likes of Redlight. But after a decided lull, the past 2 records have been a clear return to form for the hardest working ska band in North America. Long gone are the circus themes of Peculiar, and once again they tread the comfortable waters that made records like the Question, Redlight and Wasted Days such classics.

The Chenin blanc of Vouvray are a mainstay throughout the Parisian bistros...and listening to the Slackers has the power to take you there.

The Slackers - Same Every Day (live)

15. THE NEW PORNOGRAPHERS - Together
     PAIRING - Red Burgundy

For me 2010 is the year I finally figured out how to like albums by bands that I had previously had no use for. All buzz bands for the past number of years, The Arcade Fire, My Chemical Romance and The New Pornographers were all artists I just couldnt seem to enjoy. Suddenly came their new records and I find myself wondering was it just me finally opening my ears or did these artists all turn some corner with their new material? In the case of the Arcade Fire & The Pornographers it was probably my own stubborn breed of music snobbery that lends itself far more affinitively to the Gaslight Anthems of the world. Though in the case of MCR its definitely a case of maturing and finally producing a record that brings forth the talent they've long supressed with goth-riddled schlock. In the end it really doesnt matter, cuz  if you arent listening to records for pure hedonistic bliss you belong somewhere else my friend.

I pair this record with red burgundy for the elusive sophistication that sets apart the finest pinot noir from the rest. This record spins that same tightrope between subtle greatness and irrelevance that makes an instant classic.

The New Pornographers - We End Up Together
The New Pornographers - Moves

16. AM TAXI - We Dont Stand A Chance
     PAIRINGS - Lots of beer.

In a year where bands like Against Me! and The Gaslight Anthem did little to impress the new hoards of fans of the beard-clad, Nu-Springsteen folk punk circuit, newcomers AM Taxi deliver a pretty solid debut in this vein. Plenty of beer drinking and broken hearted anthems for the working class punk crowd. Not of the class of Chuck Ragan, but in a year where even the Alkaline Trio couldnt get it quite right....that'll do pig...

Labatt 50. Specifically.

AM Taxi - Woodpecker

17. ANGELS & AIRWAVES - Love
     PAIRINGS - Champagne

I never thought I'd never see the day I would put an Angels & Airwaves record on a best list. First, as a Blink fan I resent this bands existence. Second, as a man, I resent appearing like a giant vagina. Alas much like the debut from the All American Rejects years back, this is has etched its way into my guilty pleasures exemption. While they've stumbled to find an identity in their past records, this one comes together with the epic cohesion of U2 records when they didnt suck (read Joshua Tree/Rattle & Hum). The result is like falling in love for the first time.

True love deserves champagne. Nuff said.

Angels & Airwaves - Shove

18. TOBACCO - Maniac Meat
     PAIRING - Priorato

For fans of RJD2 and Cut Chemist, whove grown tired of awaiting solid new material from either. Maniac Meat hits the long devoid spot in the cockles of our hearts for electronic, jazz infused hip hop beats without MC's to go ahead and ruin everything. Note the Beck cameos.

My favorite Spanish wine region is notably difficult to farm, but the rewards are some of the most delicious grenache known to man. I find it a perfect compliment to mining the rugged terrain of underground beats.

Tobacco - Stretch Your Face

19. LIL BROTHER - Left Back
     PAIRING - Super Tuscans

No fan of LB will argue that Left Back is their best work. That said, repeated listens unveil a score of tracks that hit hard with their famed atmosphere backing another legitimate lyrical onslaught.

In the spirit of never settling on your laurels, I'm pairing Lil Brother to the winemakers who pioneered the Super Tuscans & IGT when they werent content to rest upon the DOCG laurels of Chianti. When you continue to push, the results are greatness.

Lil Brother - Revenge

20. THE KINGS OF NUTHIN - Old Habits Die Hard
     PAIRINGS - Makers Mark Bourbon.

My biggest dissapointment as a concert promoter was my inability to overcome this bands legal issues and get them over the border for a Guelph show. Getting down to Boston to see them in their hometown is still on the life's top 10 to do list. They do nothing to change the formula here. Hard nosed rockabilly for the drunk and disorderly.

Whiskey.

Kings Of Nuthin - Rythym And Booze


THE BEST OF THE REST - Didnt make the cut, but still worthy of cellaring.

The Damned Things
The Roots
Alkaline Trio
Cancer Bats
Caribou
Crime In Stereo
Spoon
Vampire Weekend
Cypress Hill
LCD Soundsystem
Two Door Cinema Club
The Flatliners
The Bouncing Souls
The Scissor Sisters
The Chemical Brothers
Foxy Shazam
Broken Bells
Avenged Sevenfold
Arcade Fire
As I Lay Dying
My Chemical Romance
Nas and Damian Marley
The National
Atmosphere
J-Live
Ghostface Killah
Bad Religion
Titus Andronicus

RECORDS THAT SUCKED AS THEY CUT

Four Year Strong
MGMT
Gaslight Anthem
The Hold Steady
Morcheeba
MIA
Bedouin Soundclash
Weezer
The Bled
Kanye West
Tokyo Police Club
Underoath

Well....thats it for 2010. All is well as we end the year. United at the top of the table...delicious food in our bellies...may the next year be as good for us all!

The Gourmet Food & Wine Expo and The Perils of the LCBO General List

 

There is one inherant problem with success, which simply put, is success itself. In English football this can be seen in the meteoric rise of obscure clubs to the lofty heights of the Premier League, only to realize they have not the grounds nor the resources to compete, leading to the demoralizing crash of relegation. In trendy new charcuterie bars there lies the danger of selling your meats faster than you can cure them. In the world of wine it manifests in gaining the demand to earn a spot in the hallowed grounds of the LCBO general list, only to buckle under the strain of mass production that renders your new vintages into vinegar. Walking past the hoards filling an entire convention hall, merely queing for upwards of 3 hours just to gain entry to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, it was clear that we were seeing an event that grown a tad to big for its britches. The sight of thousands slowly staggering through the que was more like a scene from a zombie apocalypse than a trade show.

Once inside things didnt fare much better, for overcapacity seemd a term absent from the organizer's vocabulary. The shoulder to shoulder action was more akin to a WWF Battle Royal trapped in an MC Escher canvas. I half expected at any minute to turn a corner to find Randy Savage snappin into a SlimJim and throwing me over some unforseen turnbuckle. Though to be fair, this was just as likely latent fear from being tackled on camera at last years Expo by MTV correspondent Sheena, who was attempting to wrestle away my Das Boot.

Granted, there was some culinary delights through each swarm of thirsty travellers...venison shortribs, succulent lobster snacks, pulled pork sliders...but none of it seemed worth risking a Camel Clutch for your troubles. By the time the tribal drums began thumping, inciting gaggles of denim-clad cougars to imagine themselves as Shakira, the floor began to resemble the chaos of the carribean carnival depicted in Hunter Thompson's Rum Diary. Finally, we sought refuge in the cozy confines of the Alexander Keiths tent, enjoying dice games & their new Harvest Ale ( a remarkably interesting dark ale...a surprise from the brewery that single handedly bastardized the term India Pale Ale.). Between that and dollar doubles of Rickards Dark with Le Brin cheese chunks, we soon realized there was little we could do but drink our faces off. Not that there is anything wrong with that. Come to this event expecting the sloppy circus of an Oktoberfest and you'll do just fine. But for the more discerning alcoholic there was little solace inside the storm.

The problem however runs far deeper than the over-population in the South Hall at the Metro Convention Centre. The root of this grimey fungus, lies within the show's wine focus on listings from an afforementioned big for its britches animal. the LCBO's General List. Its hard to blame the vendors. Given the cost of the rental space for an event of this stature, it makes little economic sense to peddle in wines that run for limited releases. Even the epic portfolios the likes of Lifford are reduced to their most unworthy (yet widely available) wines.

While the large majority of Lifford's impressive catalog is filled with consignment & limited release bottlings, their spread at the Expo was, for obvious reasons, stacked with their more widely available offerings. We began with a pretty nice prosseco from Santa Margherita, whose better known for their solid, if unremarkable pinot grigio. That said, cheap, uninspriring, but safe is exactly why people flock to both varieties. Here is where mass production does little to damage a reputation in that there is little reputation to plunder. We were spoiled here to try the best wine of the night with a taste of the exceptional Cabernet from Cakebread. Big, round yet oozing with elegance, this is the archetypal Napa Cab, and every bit worth the slew of tickets a taste demanded. We finished at Lifford with a house that absolutely exemplifies the peril of garnering success and sales, Louis Jadot. Their general label Burgundy was fair enough in the world of affordable pinot noir, but I out and out refused to subject our group to the Beaujelais-Villages from Jadot. Simply put this wine has gone down hill in each successive vintage since it earned a spot on the Vintage Essentials roster. While the agent defended this slide by citing vintage problems, I countered by pointing out that Jadot's Cru Beauj offerings from the Chateau Jacques label have remained outstanding through this period, elevating the Gamay nearly into pinot calibre. He remained insistant that over production was not an issue and challenged me to try the Village releases from 2010. We agreed to disagree and left in appreciation of the rare opportunity to chat about Cru Beauj.

I was pleasantly surprised to see my favourite estate on the Beamsville Bench, Rosewood offering nearly their full catalog. They gained a sizable buzz with their award winning 2007 Pinot Noir and stand as a rare combination Winery & Meadery. We began with the 2008 Pinot, which showed significant decline from its '07 predecessor. That said 2007 was a standout vintage while 2008 was anything but. Combine the increased demand from their newly aquired buzz, a lousy vintage, and dealing with the appropriately named heartbreak grape, one can let this dissapointment slide without pause. From there the dissapointment was over. Their 2009 Semillon was even better than the 2008 vintage I had enjoyed so much, carried by a powerful minerality and absolutely bubbling over with melon, peach, lemongrass and gooseberries. Also a winner was the 2008 Natalie's Riesling, which both floral, approachable and bone dry, exemplifies Ontario's natural ability to produce world class Riesling. We finished off the impressive tasting with their Mead Royale, made from 100% estate honey. Syrupy sweet with every bit of the balancing acidity that define the classic dessert wines, this one is a keeper.

The perils of general list offerings was nowhere more obvious than our visit to the Wines Of Spain booth. We approached with a level of excitement given the Spanish commitment to quality. But here, absent of the limited release goldmines of Priorat and the heavy hitters like Muga, our choices were less spectacular. Having recently gorged on an offering from Haza, and being a longtime fan of the Portugese side of the region, we began with a Ribeiro Del Duero. Our boredom was palpable. Next, we ventured for a Grenache, long my favorite of the red grapes. It bordered on undrinkable. Finally we left our fate in the hands of the agent asking for his choice as their best in show wine. The Rioja WAS drinkable, but barely, recalling the confines of Jackson Triggs....or Welch's.

And here lies in the true catch 22 of the LCBO's general list. To provide wines that are mass produced enough to be readily available at all locations, requires a reduction in quality that taints the true hedonistic pleasure of wine. One needs only to see once reliable labels like Goats Do Roam and Wolf Blass to see the strain of maintaining that production. Take Masi's Campofiorin, the original RIPASSO, whose 2007 vintage, arguably the best for the style, fall flat on its face. Further wines like Fuzion, or Yellowtail, which remain as they began, overproduced bargain wines with little to offer the distinguished pallette. Yet its this very ability to be recognizable that is required by the general list in the first place. A friend recently asked me for a suggestion for a slightly sweet off dry white wine, noting he was at a small LCBO. By that very shopping location I was handcuffed at what I could suggest, offering the pedestrian Pirerre Sparr Gewurtztraminer. Passable, yes. Available, yes. But shouldnt we be able to do better?

The good news is you can. With just a little bit of effort and some regular visitations to large Vintages sections, one can quickly begin huilding a library of superior wines that they are familiar and comfortable with. Better yet you can learn that you dont have to break the bank. Worst case, there are some easy general list and Vintages Essentials that ARE decent and reliable. Try your luck with Perrin's Cote Du Rhone, Sogrape's Gazela & Matues Signature, Berringer's Stone Cellars Cab, Montalto's Pinot Grigio, Chateau Des Charmes 2007 Pinot Noir, and Sella & Mosca's Cannonau Di Sardigna. All reliable, affordable, and readily available wines that can help set your beginner's cellar apart from the general malaise of the general list.

As for the Expo...bring your toga's and have some fun.

A Horse Is a Course (Of Horse)

There is few things in life that compare to the exaltation of having a dish that completely blows your mind. People throw around the term "life-changing" far too liberally these days (cuz really Hot Yoga really only means shifting your US Weekly budget into the waiting arms of Lulu Lemon) but when you've had those rare meals that are the kind that inspire Allah to start offering out legions of virgins to his newly deceased flock, you know it. And nothing will be the same again.

While I've encountered these lofty plates a number of times in my lifelong pursuit of hedonistic overload, its no small feat that three times I've had this experience in the confines of Grant Van Gameren's The Black Hoof. I won't lie, I enjoyed this spot a whole lot more back in its infancy as an industry speakeasy packed with chefs, bar-jockeys and wine stewards. I suppose even then I knew the hoards of food hipsters would innevitably descend upon its glorious floors, oblivious to the simple pleasure of following a grueling dinner service with some foie gras and Labatt 50. Of course I cannot begrudge the success of their little no frills charcuterie pad, if for no other reason than the 3 times its meals have changed my life.

The first time was the discovery of Jamon Iberico. This is the Wagu of the cured pork universe, complete with prize-bred hogs with special diets and daily massage treatments. While this may seem frivolous nonsense to the layperson, talk to me after you've had a thin slice of iberico melt on your tongue (it literally does that...for serious). The 2nd time was glutonizing over their cow tongue on brioche. The epic tenderness of braised tongue was enough to ensure I would never really appreciate a corned beef sandwich ever again (or at least the unsmoked variety....cuz even tongue cant hold a candle to Schwartz's patrami).

But its the 3rd one that tops them all, and is in fact the inspiration to an entire oddessey, around which this article is based upon. It was a sleepy September Thursday whereupon, still soaked in the afterglow of a surreal weekend in New York City, I sunk my teeth into the loving arms of the most seductive mistress. The Raw Horse Sammy at the Black Hoof. Virtually a horse carpaccio on sliced baguette, with quail egg for yolking and a chili sauce to finish the sandwich. We paired it with a Tawse Cabernet Franc (which by the way is easily one of the top bottles of wine I have ever had from Niagara....truly world class) and from the first bite, I knew I had been launched into an entirely new chapter in my life. The horse was to become my obsession.

Turns out that horse can be a pretty quiet obsession. Almost from the dawn of civilzation the horse has enjoyed a man's best friend stature, bested only by the domestic dog. After all this celebrity I guess its only natural that very few kitchens, the world over, are graced with the loins of the cheval. Its a common menu piece in the Veneto, where its been an historical centerpiece of local cuisine for centuries. In Vino Italiano, Joe Bastianich describes a rustic Verona tavern serving up horse meat in three seperate menu items, in cuts and plates that are commonly seen with beef. However unlike the sedantary cow, the muscular horse contains alot less meat of the sort of divine tenderness sought after by the distinguished carnivore. As can be expected they are excellent pairing partners with the regional red wines Amarone and Ripasso. My mouth waters at the idea of a tenderloin, braised in beer & cocoa, decked out with a blueberry compote, being chase down with a velvety 2007 ripasso.

As I pushed on in my crusade du cheval, I began asking around the city to find my next step. I discover its not all that uncommon in area restaurants, especially those dedicated to passionate carnivores. In addition to the couple of cheval-centric dishes I've had at the Hoof, Chef Matt Beasley (who I strongly believe has star potential written all over him) also described to me a horse dish he used to cook at Globe Bistro. Yet the deeper I searched it became clear that there wasn't a butcher anywhere in Upper Canada carrying horse for the sonsumer market. To find this I had no choice but to turn to the last bastion of unapologetic carnivore celebration left on this continent of hyprocritical fashion-foodies. Every road to preparing horse in my home kitchen ran through Quebec.

Six hours of red/yellow/orange tree-lined highway and a pit-stop in Old Port Montreal later, I found myself in an Anjou food market staring at the counter of Chevaline Plus. Their selection was a game heavy playlist, challk full of pheasant, elk and even (perhaps troubling) pigeon. But I had eyes only for one, the butcher's namesake & specialty. The horse. After considerable discusssion I settled upon a healthy slab of Cheval Roti (in essence a horse tenderloin, complete with the butcher-string ties) and a Cheval Mignon (a cut equivalent to its bovine counterpart). Now barely past noon, northeast of Montreal, I had 9 hours to plan, purchase groceries for & prepare in Toronto for a dinner based around the chunks of cheval I had icing in a former beer cooler.

Oddly enough my inspiration came in the form of a Tim Horton's donut. Not to be mistaken with the typical Timmy's fare (their donuts have never been the same since the centralization of their bakeries in that Brantford Ontario factory....garbage I tell you), their special Pumpkin Spiced Donut was a pocket change revelation. The flavors smacked me into longing for the Thanksgiving dinner I never had the week before. Instantly the night's menu was set. Cheval Roti braised in beer & cinamon, Medium rare Cheval Mignon with sauteed mushrooms & carmalized onions and roast pumpkin with toasted raisins & cinamon. While my cellar is rich in berry reflectant ripasso's, the shift toward a more savory style lead me to the Grenache section, selecting a 2006 Gigondas by Laurus and the 2005 Les Mines from Priorat (the best bottle I've ever had for under $30 and while I once boasted an entire case, this was the last bottle of this wine no longer available in the area). The pumpkin scraps would also give birth to a delicious soup to pair with some Scwartz's smoked pastrami the following day. My audience for this dinner would include cooks from both Savoy & The Soho, as well as Sommali Pirate. A strange cast to conclude this strange journey.

The meal came off without a hitch. While the lean nature of the meat left me wishing I had braised the roti for at least another hour, the flavor was unmistakably captivating, especially when dipped in some close at hand deli mustard & horseradish. In contrast the mignon was grilled to perfection. Tender and dripping in juice it was the kind of bite that made this entire crusade worthwhile. Though I must admit, while we sat there, pouring down some dynamite wine over our feast and talking food, travel, and the suddenly inspiring Toronto Maple Leafs, I couldnt help but recognize that all of this still came short of living up to that first bite of Van Gameren's Raw Horse Sammy.

I guess thats why they call it life changing.

The Luis vs. The Lampard: The Elderflower Cocktail Explosion

Its no secret for anyone browsing cocktail menus from New York to Chicago to Vancouver that 2010 has been the year Elderflower went all Justin Bieber on the minds of the mixologist. Elderflower cordial (and in some cases its frizzy cousin Elderflower presse) has been popping up just about everywhere this summer. Back in August while working the Skyy Vodka Cocktails of TIFF launch, I took notice when the cordial featured prominently in the cocktails designed by The Martini Club for the festival. The Berry Baruchel (despite its gangly namesake) was by the far the best of the bunch.

It was in September however that I realized just how big things had gotten for the little cordial that could.

The season had just kicked off over in England on a new English Premier League campaign. I had spent the past several months rekindling an old flame with the seductive siren you may know as rum. And of course I was still had the sweet elderflower buzzing around my brain. It was a perfect storm that led to the creation of The Luis. Named after legendary football icon Luis Figo, I debut'd this rum cocktail on a pre kareoake deck party at my place and it was a smashing success (that is til my best mate proceeded to take the smashing a tad literally...but that will happen).

Proud as a poppa I strolled into work soon after to brag of my storied new concoction when I learned that completely independent of this creation, One's Chef De Cuisine had come up with his own Elderflower cocktail, ALSO named after one of his favorite footballers. And with all the grace of an elephant, The Luis vs. The Lampard was announced, along with the decided arrival of Elderflower cordial .

For those unfamiliar with the elderflower cordial, its basically simple syrup infused with the flowers of the elderberry. Its roots trace back to Victorian England and while generally widely available in Northwestern Europe, its use, availability and popularity is for the most part a new phenomenon this side of the pond. While commercially invisible here a few years ago, demand has domestic commercial production of elderflower cordial in full swing & its now hitting the shelves of shops such as Loblaws & Ikea (crazy Swedes). Aside from its direct use, I also see its impact further on the North American cocktail menu. While infusing spirits has been old hat for some time now it seems that the little Elderflower cordial has got the wheels turning and suddenly one cant help but notice infused syrups creeping up all over the place (ie. Lemongrass Syrup, which now made in house at One features in 2 of our fall cocktails).

Back to battle of elderflowered footballers it must be pointed out that at the best of times Chef & I were seemingly born to do battle. A Leeds man and a United man are eternal combatants and now armed with our proud new recipes the duel was inevitable. With the new fall cocktail menu being designed for this past week, the stage was set. I greased the wheel a tad by feedng his sous chefs delicious Luis' the night before the tasting. In the end however I gave the Lampard the green light (though only due to seasonal considerations......being that his infusion of lavender & rosemary sang "autumn" more than the summery splash of the Luis).

In the end 3 One mixologists & our chef all designed elderflower based cocktails for the new menu. We selected 2, kept 1 for next summer & retooled another with a more herbacious answer to its floral inception (this would be the Lemongrass Fizz featuring an enticing blend of lemongrass syrup, Zubrowka Bisongrass Vodka & champagne).

Ladies, gentlemen, the elderflower has entered the building.

Heres some recipes you can try at home

-The Berry Baruchel (from the 2010 Toronto International Film Festival Skyy Bar Guide)

1.5 oz Skyy vodka
0.25 oz Lemon Juice
0.33 oz Elderflower Cordial
2 oz. Blueberry juice.

Stir in a shaker over ice until cold. Pour into a martini glass and garnish with 2 tsp. of wild blueberries.

-The Luis

2,5 oz. Bacardi White Rum
3 oz. Soda
1 oz. Lime Juice
0.5 oz Elderflower Cordial

Pour over rocks in a collins glass and garnish with chopped zest of half of one lime.

-The Lampard

2.5 oz. Brokers Gin infused with lavender & rosemary
0.5 oz Elderflower cordial
3 oz. soda
1 oz. lemon juice

Pour over rocks in a collins glass and garnish with a rosemary sprig.

-The Pekoe Martini (from One's Fall 2010 Cocktail menu)

4 oz. of Ketel One Vodka infused with Black Tea & Elderflower cordial

Stir in a shaker full of ice until cold. Pour into a martini glass & garnish with an orange slice across the surface of the martini

Coronation Street

Seven games into the newest Barclays Premiership season and its hard not to announce the coronation of Chelsea in the defence of their league title. Todays London derby was a smashing affair from front to finale and despite the obvious skill put forth by the Gunners, the quality of the Blues was simply too much. Drogba continues to be the biggest beast in English football with a touch I imagine exists only in the bedroom of Kiera Knightly and a sense of occasion matched only by John F Kennedy. While Wenger's side pressed on throughout the second half with their unique and fluid attack, one couldnt help but sense that the Chelsea counter would respond, with an arrogant formation of leaving Anelka, Drogba and Malouda forward. On que, Alex's otherwordly strike from a free kick sliced the hearts of the Arsenal faithful (aided in no small part to a sly play on the wall by Malouda). A great game soaked in big moments and all the proof this guy needs that this season is Chelsea's to lose.

Wenger's laundry list of excuses aside, they continue to be incapable of rising above the likes of Chelsea and United. Nothing suggests that will change with this squad. While United continue to assert their place at the summit of club football, their inability to close on the road is evident of a side still in transition. Much like the side that went on to 3 straight English titles a few years back, Sir Alex's club is stacked with rising talent that will no doubt have its day, but my boyish fandomonium aside, I just dont see this being the year for the Red Devils. Spurs have been leaking oil since the start of the season, and commitments in Europe may prove once again too much for the boys at White Hart Lane. That said Gareth Bale's ascension to the ranks of world class fullback along with Harry's transfer heist of Rafael Van Der Vaart should keep them competetive in the top of table. Manchester City, mark my words, have finally arrived 2 years after the billions of dollars in Arab oil money was dumped into the Eastlands outfit. Their endless shopping spree is finally giving fruit as the assembled stars finally begin to gel as a team. This in spite of a manager in Mancini that I believe is fully incapable of steering a side of this quality to the promised land. In spite of their boss, the likes of Tevez, Johnson et al will make their mark & here at the international break, they stand behind only the Chelsea juggernaut in the infant title race.

Which leaves my favorite story of this new season, the nightmarish turn in fortunes of Liverpool FC. Today's famous home loss to Premier League virgins, Blackpool leaves the legendary Merseyside outfit in the relegation zone with only 1 win in 7 games. The collapse of arguably England's greatest team has a place alongside Tiger Woods, OJ Simpson & Julius Ceasar. With fan revolts taking to the streets in protest to the ownersip debacle, Carling Cup extinction to the hands of 2nd division zero's from Northampton, and their worst start to a campaign in the modern era, things continue to spiral toward depths that would make Ahab's whale cringe. At this rate its not at all unreasonable to suspect the like of Gerrard & Torres could be gone by Christmas. Its the kind of turn in fortune that only fans of Leeds United can truly fathom, and that disaster has taken over a decade to recover from. My support of Man U is rivaled only by the vitriol of my loathing of Liverpool FC, yet even I cant help but be stunned by this epic fail at Anfield. Its as if I awoke to a naked Zoey Deschannel asleep on my chest while my flatmate John Lennon was busy preparing roast duck & porkbelly Eggs Benedict in the kitchen (which by the way overlooked the rugged hills of my Priorat wine estate). Yet somehow my dream come true tastes a bit stale. Rivalries of the tallest order survive not on the utter defeat of your enemies, rather the constant and ethereal struggle against them. While the suffering of Anfield scum arrived in my cellar with all the exhuberant gusto of an '82 Margeaux, I fear now the bottle may turn out to be the victim of corkage.

Fans of food & wine content rest assured there is more to come as I put the finishing touches on "A Horse is a Course (Of Horse)" and "Tasting Notes: Rhone Valley".

Glory Glory Man United!