Tawse Winery, armed with consecutive Canadian Winery of the Year awards, a state of the art facility, the mysterious allure of biodynamic farming and sales that might even make a Gallo blush (see what I did there?), has been dramatically serving notice of the arrival of Niagara into the world of fine wine. No less brash, and every bit as tasty, the Charles Baker's and Norman Hardie's have also been turning heads and palates. Yet without all those bells, whistles and loudspeakers (although shining off his own Ontario Winemaker of the Year Award) Andrzej Lipinski has quietly been making his own mark in the booming Niagara wine trade.
Having cut his teeth in such venerable estates as Vineland, DeSousa, Organized Crime and Foreign Affair, Andrzej presently calls Colaneri home, whilst moonlighting in Norfolk County in upstart Burning Kiln. He's revolutionized Ontario wine with his application of appassimento style (the use of dried grapes ala Amarone) in both red AND white varietals. Most respectable, he's positioned himself as somewhat of a winemaker of the people, having left the ultra premium price point of Foreign Affair to make the same quality of wine at a price more in line with the every man.
Today, he came by the lounge at ONE to showcase his new evolution. Not content to rest on the laurels of his present success, he now brings forth Big Head Wines. Not just winemaker, or consultant, Big Head is Andrzej as top of the food chain. His wines, his way. His pride in the product is unmistakable. He takes great joy in celebrating every last ounce of quality he pours into the bottle, right down to the corks.
"See these corks?" he absolutely beams while showing sommelier Curtis Elson and myself the enclosures that too many producers are merely an afterthought.
The wines deliver on his excitement.
We begin with the 2012 Chardonnay. The ripe fruit explodes from the glass, buoyed by significant oak and mallo that positions this blockbuster alongside the storied Chardonnays of California. Yet that tell-tale Niagara acid is not to be overshadowed, creating an elevation seldom seen in Chardonnay ANYWHERE. This is a true cellar candidate, as I can't wait to see how this one dances as the fruit begins to hit its Carlsberg years.
Next up is the Chenin Blanc, both from 2012 and 2011. While the 2012 vintage was for all intents and purposes the first for Big Head (and not a bad way to start, as most I have spoken with have called 2012 Niagara's best vintage EVER), one of his other enterprises backed out on the production of Chenin in 2011, leaving his farmer on the hook for a chunk of grapes. Instead of backing out on a trusted grower, he purchased the grapes for an initial vintage of Big Head. And while the 2012 has received higher accolades (a Platinum medal amongst them), its actually the 2011 that exudes a sensuality and texture that places it amongst the best Chenin Blancs I have ever tasted.
Next up is the Pinot Noir from 2012. I have never got the impression, in my 4 years of obsessing over Lipinksi wines, that Andrzej is as passionate about pinot as he is some of his other wines. Which is remarkable given the magic he has made with this grape. His Organized Crime pinots were absolutely game changing, and he has always imparted a decisive individuality on the "heartbreak grape". This one is no different. This might be his highest achievement to date with Pinot Noir. Absolutely swimming in the familiar sour cherry and root vegetable flavours pinot lovers bathe inside of, there is a striking acidity to the wine that carries everything to new heights. This is that elusive magic that grand cru Burgandies strive toward. We are not worthy.
Our tasting moves along to Syrah. I have never been convinced this is an ideal grape for Niagara, but the 2012 Big Head has me re-assessing my position. A powerful nose draws you in and the palate follows through. Perhaps all that is missing is that wildchild side of the grape that I so love (though for most tasters in the new world, this might be viewed as a plus).
We move along to a Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot blend he dubs Bigger Red. Its an uncommon blend that demonstrates a master of his craft. Chalky tannins, lush fruit and a subtle vegetal side come together to make a wine that is both gripping and approachable. Its the El Dorado of the red wine world. Character and friendliness in one seemingly effortless swoop. Bordeaux blends are a funny thing in Ontario. There are not alot of great ones. And those that are tend to be priced toward the Bay Street stratosphere. Yet here is something that under $50 a bottle would command twice that anywhere else in the province.
I have learned over the years that while making world class dry wines may be Andrzej's calling, he takes great pride in his sweet wines as well. The first, a Cabernet Franc Ice Wine, is typical of Niagara Icewine. Sweet and tasty, but one noted and flabby. I have never understood why Niagara spends so much time in the sticky mess of Icewine. But then we move on to his Vidal Icewine. This little magician just screams texture, layer upon layer of escalating flavour, which Andrzej insists is the result of the extremely tricky endeavour of using natural fermentation in icewine. Whatever the method, the delivery is unlike any I have had outside of Vin Santo and Sauternes.
The man has done it again. Big Head Wines is not merely a man cashing in on his rising star, rather a staggering elevation of his craft to a next level. I have been telling anyone who would listen for years that Niagara wines have arrived. Andrzej Lipinski has put a bold exclamation point to my notice.
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