Cloud City Cold One (or Billy Dee Williams vs Colt 45)

As the nerds take Toronto Comicon by storm this weekend, there will be no doubt hoards descending upon Billy Dee Williams, decked out like Boba Fett, begging to have the man who played Lando Calrissian, sign their sacred Star Wars merch.

This is not that story.

I first met Billy back in May of 2011. Turns out in addition to slinging The General's Chicken in Undercover Brother, and playing turncoat made good in the biggest Sci-fi Trilogy in movie history, he's quite the accomplished visual artist. In addition to his artwork, he has also collaborated with Gallery owner Brian Liss, on a spoken word project, whereby smooth Billy Dee recites Brian's poetry over some even smoother jazz. Billy was in town to perform this project while selling his artwork over drinks at the Liss Gallery.

But this isn't really that story either.

You see while Billy Dee Williams is many things to many people, to the professional alchoholic, he is first and foremost the former spokesman for Colt 45, King of Malt Liquor. Even in my pre-drunken pre-teens I remember his silky delivery touting this mysterious beverage. By the time I was in college, and my roomate made a habbit of decorating his room in empty colt 40 oz's, no doubt fresh off of debilitating games of Edward 40 Hands (if you don't know, dont't ask), I had made a significant soft spot in my pop culture awareness bubble of Billy Dee's hand in my selection of over proof beer.

Having hosted a series of whiskey tastings at the Liss Gallery when launching this silly blog of mine, I got my invite in March of 2011 to this celebration of all things Billy Dee Williams. While I'm certain he's had a lifetime of signing shitty Star Wars memorabilia and the backs of painted canvas I was sure of one thing. I was going to get Billy Dee Williams to sign me a can of Colt 45.

On the day of the event, dressed to the 9's, I showed up at a walk in Beer Store nearby on Spadina Ave and went searching for the Colt 45. After minutes of panic riddled hunting I still had yet to find the prize and began shouting, "Does anyone know where to find some Colt 45?"

The clerk rushed to my aid and pointed me in the right direction, and as I grabbed myself a few cans, a gentleman to my left asked, "Are you going to that Billy Dee Williams thing?"

I was completely shell shocked by the question, but he quickly explained, "Nobody dressed as good as you, has ever ordered a Colt 45."

Apparently I wasn't the only one to enshrine Mr. Williams in the Malt Liquor Hall of Fame.

Upon arriving at the event, Billy Dee, ever the pimp, was incredibly gracious and most definitely taken aback by request to sign a couple of beer cans. Those cans sit proudly upon my mantle and will do so until I'm worm food.

He really was the most badass of screen legends. Signing beer cans. Showing off pictures of his grand kids, and delivering the poetry of Brian Liss in a vocal valour that comes from only the coolest of cats.

There was one thing that I needed to know, however. Was Billy Dee Williams really and truly a fan of Colt 45 or was that merely a paycheque?

"Son I'm an American. That was a pay cheque."

Billy Dee Williams is back for both Comic Con Toronto this weekend, as well as an exclusive showcase of his artwork Sunday night at Liss Gallery.

Be There.

And may the malt liquor be with you.

Buyer and Sellers Vintages Report April 18, 2015

After a somewhat lacklustre release last time around, the folks at Ontario's Liquor Board have outdone themselves on this one.  This Saturday's release is bursting at the seams with not only must have wines, but also fantastic VALUE wines. Problem is you want to drink so much of wine like this at prices like this, you'll probably spend a whole lot more simply stocking up for the long summer ahead. I know I will. Shit.

Also of note, this release is absolutely steered toward the old world. There are some new world offerings, but none with the calibre of what is coming from across the Atlantic. Shop thrifty and drink sophisticated. Sounds pretty swell to me.



Muga - Rose
2014
Rioja, Spain
$13.95

I cannot overstate this. There is no better value for dollar proposition in the world of wine than Muga's Rose. Those in the know, ranging everywhere between serious wine snobs and weekend warriors, literally load up cases at at time when this wine comes to market. Its probably time you joined in on this horribly kept secret. Pronounced minerality guides the subtle fruit with just the most subtle kiss of acid that keeps you coming back for endless second helpings. Drinkable like water, yet with the kind of finesse that makes $60 Bandol Roses something people yearn for. Jump on it. 




Brigaldara - Valpolicella
2013
Veneto, Italy
$14.95

This is what Amarone fans drink in the summer. All that fabulous roundhouse of rich and stunning fruit, with a lighter weight that won't weigh you down when the 30 ferenheit becomes 30 celcius. Dressed in smoke and tar notes it practically screams for the bbq, Yet juicy and fresh enough to just guzzle on its own after a long day on the lake. 







M Charpoutier - Domaine Bila-Haut Cotes Du Rousillon Villages
2013
Languedoc-Rousillon, France
$15.95

Fans of densely extracted brooding types will enjoy this one immensely. Deep and dark blend of Grenache Syrah and Mourvedre, this one oozes depth and Parker fans may want to take note he scored this one at 92 points. 92 points at $16 from one of the biggest names in the Rhone Valley? How is that possible? Its all in the real estate. For decades the South of France was no man's land, but with more and more of the country's best turning their attentions to the affordable lands here, the smart buyer begins to enjoy boss wine on a proletarien price.






Hugel Et Fils - Gentil
2013
Alsace, France
$15.95

12 generations dating back to the 17th Century have tended the vineyards of the Hugel family. Nearly every generation in the past hundred years have been pioneering visionaries held in the highest esteem throughout Alsace and the world at large. Blending is a rare thing in Alsace, and this new edition which made its debut in 2011 is a bit of "fuck you" to the regulatory channels in the region. Blending all of their fine varietels, this is as unique and ubiquitously ALSACE as you will ever find. Fully rounded yet fresh and lasting, its an absolute triumph that will please just about any crowd.



Hugel Et Fils - Riesling
2012
Alsace, France
$24.95

Another stunner from the Hugel family, Bright, snappy and vivacious, this one rides a meticulously cut line between bold fruit and minerality. While no doubt tasty right now, my advice is to tuck a few of these away until they turn at least 8 years old. Riesling has an evolution that is unmatched in the world of wine and this thing will become something entirely spectacular as the beeswax begins to emerge over the bounty of fruit.










Domaine Michel Prunier - Hautes Cotes De Beaune
2012
Burgundy, France
$24.95

The Prunier family looks over the twelve acres they've obtained over 4 generations of crafting small lot Burgundy gems. Only 250 cases wee made of this entry level Pinot which though fresh is not for a moment lacking in flesh. Persistent and tasty it represents that rare opportunity to enjoy quality pinot under $50 a bottle.


 



Condado De Haza - Crianza
2010
Ribera Del Duero, Spain
$24.95

Another annual classic, the smoked cherry heart beats through a wild child that is hellbent on charming your pants off. Rough around the edges in all the right places, it dances like no one's watching with just about any food pairing, and that hint of chocolate is bound to please even the most bitter sophisticate. Great fun and a whole lotta heart.






Plenty to enjoy on a budget no doubt, but there are some crowd favourites for the big spenders too. From Caymus Vineyard's 40th Anniversary Napa Cabernet to the new Chateauneuf Du Pape from Rhone icons Famille Perrin. Its a bounty not likely to be matched soon.

Get shopping!

Buyer and Cellars March 21st Vintages Report - Fully Completely, Left My Wallet In Montefalco

At the Hundredth Meridian Where The Great Wine Begins

Sports radio legend Bob McCown quietly purchased Stoney Ridge Estate Winery a couple years back, and almost overnight breathed new life into one of Niagara's best kept secrets. Along the way they have joined forces with Mike Weir winery with Jeff Hundertmark overseeing the wine making at both properties. Bob's no bullshit approach to life dictated that this endeavour was to be as much steak as sizzle and from day one the results have been highly impressive. While the quality benchmark in Stoney Ridge's Excellence line of wines had already been well established (the award winning 2010 Chardonnay is a Niagara legend, and their Excellence Pinot Gris is remarkable through several recent vintages), the real turnaround has been at the Weir brand, where wines that had stagnated on the great planes of boredom for many years have really come into their own under Hundertmark's guidance. For a long time this line relied on the branding of its namesake golfer to sell the bottle. Now these wines can sell themselves.

It was thus a logical place for Canadian rock icons The Tragically Hip to turn when they decided to make a wine to commemorate the 20th anniversary of their "Fully Completely" album. 2012 was an incredible and generous vintage for the big red grapes, and thus a Bordeaux blend made sense to the both the band and the winery.  Originally, Bob's business acumen kicked in, suggesting a premium grape selection with an elaborate bottling, knowing 8000 bottles would fly regardless of price, but the  band insisted on keeping this within the grasp of their die hard fans. The end result a wine with small town charm, whose bold spirit fully flies the banner of the album, fully inviting you to the glass and completely winning your devotion.

I was at a gathering at Bob's sprawling homestead to celebrate the success of Stoney Ridge back when the wine was first released before the holidays. On a night meant to celebrate Stoney Ridge, with celebrities like Pinball Clemmons and Bob as host, it was instead Fully Completely that kept the room buzzing. Looking for a place to happen, meant finding another decanter full of Fully Completely.

Stoney Ridge sold through 80% of the stock in a matter of days. Since the LCBO got their hands on this last 20%, I promise you it won't last long on the shelves at Vintages. Get on this while you can before Ry Cooder is singing the eulogy.

Stoney Ridge Estate Winery - Fully Completely
2012
Niagara, Canada
$24.95


Built for the campfire, roasting burgers while someone's strumming wheat kings and pretty things. A rustic Bordeaux blend that debunks an American myth. Great wines like great bands can come from the great white north. Red and black fruit with firm tannins and a smokey streak which sticks throughout. Edgy and charismatic. Everything in a glass as The Tragically Hip put into a record 20 years before.




I Left My Wallet In Montefalco

It was a rainy afternoon in Umbria. Having survived a hellish 24 hour detour through the excess of Rome, I was more than happy to settle in to the country charm of my hosts at Cantina Chiorri in the hills outside of Perugia. Belly full from the first of many waistline destructive feasts courtesy of my hosts I was nearly reluctant to get into a car to tour the Umbrian countryside. But you don't pass when the Mayor of Montefalco comes to give you his personal tour of his homeland. 

I had met Valentino Valentini the week before at Prowein in Dusseldorf. I was scouting for an online wine agency start up "The Wine Merchant" and Umbrian wines in particular caught my attention at the show in Germany. His family winery Bocale produced a singularly stunning Sagrantino Di Montefalco, and I felt then as  I do now, that Sagrantino will be one of the next big things in the world of wine. But this never once felt like a sales call. As we drove through the ancient hilltop fortresses that now make up the small towns of Italy's greenbelt, his pride and enthusiasm for his homeland was contagious. Valentino's a man whose as much concerned with the success of his mesmerizing community as he is his own winery. And there is a lot to love. His passion comes honestly, as he spent nearly a decade as Mayor of Montefalco. After hours of driving through the landscape of alternating vineyards and ancient strongholds that overlook the valley we finally arrived at Bocale. 

Like almost all the great wine producers in the world of wine, they focus on just a few things and they do them very well. A Sagrantino, the staple of Umbrian reds, a Rosso (blending Sangiovese and Sagrantino, meant to drink while Sagrantino ages) and a Passito (for dessert). For the uninitiated, Sagrantino brings the rich fruit profile of Bordaux varietals with the tannic grip of the most daring Nebiolo. Its an aggressive beast that with the advances of modern winemaking results in a wine that is finally ready to set the world on fire. 91 points from Wine Spectator shows I'm not just blowing smoke. 

Bocale in the autumn. Also truffle season. So yeah go there.

Bocale Vineyards - Sagrantino Di Monefalco
2010 Umbria, Italy
$39.95

A dazzling rush of blackberry interlaced with exotic spiced notes, carried by a massive wall of structure that begs for some cellar time (or at least a healthy dose of decanting). A Rambunctious sort that plays well with like minded food. Game friendly and built to last. 







Trophies and Tackle

Some Vintages releases are created better than others. This one is an absolute embarrassment of riches. From big game trophies from hallowed grounds like Napa and Bordeaux, to the kinds of value wines from throughout the world that spark the fire that is the burning desire to have such marvels in your personal collection. Frankly it is all too much to fit into one two week budget. All I can do is highlight the best, and wish you and your credit card all the luck in the world.

TOP VALUE WINES

Rabl - Gruner Veltliner "Loss"
2013
Kamptal, Austria
$14.95

Casa Silva - Los Lingues Carmenere
2012
Colchagua Valley, Chile
$15.95

Paul Jaboulet Aine - Cotes Du Rhone "Secret De Famille"
2012
Rhone Valley, France
$16.95

Boutari - Grande Reserve
2008
Naoussa, Greece
$17.95

Yalumba - Shiraz
2014
South Australia, Australia
$18.95

Chateau Peyros - Old Vines Madiran 
2009
Southest France, France
$18.95

Vineland Estates - St Urban Vineyard Riesling
2012
Niagara, Canada
$19.95

Trimbach - Riesling
2012
Alsace, Canada
$21.95

Luca - Laborde Syrah
2012
Mendoza, Argentina
$24.95

Domaine Queylus - Tradition Pinot Noir
2011
Niagara, Canada
$29.95

TOP TROPHY WINES

Antinori - Pian Delle Vigne Brunello Di Montelcino
2009 
Tuscany, Italy
$59.95

Chateaux Malescot St Exupery - Margaux 3er Cru
2011
Bordeaux, France
$89.95

Kistler - McCrae Vineyard Chardonnay
2012
Sonoma, United States
$103.95

Dominus
2011
Napa Valley. United States
$176.95

Chateau Pontet Canet - Pauillac 
2011
Bordeaux, France
$174.85

Buyer and Cellars Vintages Report March 7 2015

With the launch of my new project, Buyer and Cellars, I'm pleased to reinvigorate the Red Devil Blog with a free preview of each new Vintages release as part of my Wine Concierge Service. Every 2 weeks, LCBO Vintages releases a new block of artisinal wines that tend to outshine just about everything available in the general list.  These wines are smaller productions and do not last long on the shelves which presents a conundrum to the average consumer who lack the time to track the best small producers around the world. I'm always asked by friends to recommend wines for them. The hope is that this column will be the evolving answer to clients and friends alike.

Here's whats worth chasing in the newest release from Vintages.


Bisol - Jeio Colmei Extra Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore
NV
Veneto, Italy
$16.95

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I must admit I'm far from a Prosecco fan. I get it, Champagne is expensive, but that doesnt mean you have to go bland when looking for discount bubbles. Yet every once in awhile, I stumble upon a Prosecco which elevates beyond its proletariat pedigree. This crisp offering from Bisol is absolutely one of them. Fizzy and firm yet friendly all the while,  the fresh lively attack brings rich melon and honey along a razor's edge of balancing minerality. Its a party starter for any occasion from celebrations to just because.








13th Street Gamay Noir
2012
Niagara, Canada
$19.95

I will never forget Peter Bodnar Rod's excitement back in December of 2012, the grapes barely off of the vine, as he gushed about the class of 13th Street's class of 2012. Gamay has long been one of Niagara's signature wines, and 13th Street has long been one of the leading local Gamay producers. I've been waiting to load up on these ever since. I got my first taste back in the fall, and they were every bit as commanding as I'd hoped. Bright fruit with leesy/baconfat infused texture make this a wine fun for now but promise an interesting journey for some years to come.










Rosewood Estates Select Series Merlot
2012
Niagara, Canada
$21.95

Another gem from a classic vintage here in Niagara. Their 2010 Reserve Merlot was honored by the Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario and that pedigree shines through again in 2012. Wild fermentation and some of the best juice available on the Beamsville Bench delivered a classic luscious red, drenched in complex aromas and texture. A true classic. Sadly with this vineyard a tragic victim of the oppressive winter of 2013/2014, this will be the final chapter in world class Rosewood Merlot for some time.





Rodney Strong Sonoma County Chardonnay
2012
Sonoma, California
$22.95

My visit to Rodney Strong 3 years ago was perhaps the most astonishing of my trip to Sonoma. I knew of Rodney Strong mostly as a bulk producer of little note. What I learned was that under the stewardship of the Klein family, there has been a renewed focus on both quality and sustainability. While these aren't wines that will change your life, they are certainly tasty and heads and shoulders above most of their California peers at this price range. Certified Sustainable in California, you can feel just as good about whats in your glass as where it came from. '



Primarius Pinot Noir
2012
Oregon, USA
$24.95

Cool climate pinot noir with distinction arrives with a smoke infused rush of lean bright berry fruit. Distinguished and sophisticated it represents an all too rare quality pinot under $25.






Beni Di Batasiolo Gavi di Gavi
2013
Piedmont, Italy
$17.95

Cortese is just one of the countless and exciting unheralded white grapes bestowed upon the vineyards throughout Italy. It is one worth getting to know. Floral and persistent with a long clean finish, imagine drinking mineral water infused in white peach, poured over rose petals, getting drunk along the way.











All in all there is some nice value here, and all of it away from the main themes of the release (Tuscany, BC and Israel). Don't judge a book by it's cover.

Happy drinking!

Sing Through the Tears in the Key of Life, The Way a Wounded Eagle Might

My dear friend Chrissy lost her mother to ALS last week. This story is equal parts a celebration of her life, of my friendship with Chrissie, and the visceral experience that is the Brother Ali party.

Chrissy and I have been close for a decade now. Along with 2 other close friends from University in Guelph, we all came together to Toronto nearly 8 years ago. We been through some shit. While most of you spent the summer debating the merit of the Ice Bucket Challenge on your facebook accounts, Chris moved home to spend a final year with her mother who was dying of ALS.

I first came across Brother Ali around the same time our crew was getting ready to make the move out of Guelph. His early records were an awakening for me.  The voice of an angel, in the body of an obese albino. Lyrically he poured out his heart singing to his battles with his ex-wife, her crackhead  mother, his self image, his mother, his grandfather and his very place on this earth. Yet throughout each verse was this honest and uplifting message that he would not be victim to his circumstances. It was as beautiful sonically as it was emotionally.

My first Ali show was during the mayhem of Canadian Music Week (or North By Northeast...I can never tell em apart) in March of 2007. Amidst the hundreds of shows going down that weekend, less than a hundred people turned out in the massive hall of The Phoenix Concert Theatre. The fans were as undeterred by the empty room as was the man himself. We crowded around the stage like bugs to a light, and he brought a party like no other. The magic of Brother Ali goes beyond the message. Yes there is this beautiful and tragic undertone to the lyrics, yet they are forever buoyed by the infectious beats of Atmosphere DJ Ant, and his boundless commitment to making a party. In a room meant for thousands, less than a hundred of us came together that night and made an energy so much larger than our individual parts.

In August 2010, I brought Chrissy along with 3 other friends, many who had never met each other before this journey, to New York City to experience Rock The Bells. We had no idea how that weekend would forge new bonds that would last forever from that fateful trip. With a show that featured reunions of The Wu Tang Clan, A Tribe Called Quest, and the return to the stage of Lauryn Hill,  and the unspeakable magic of Manhattan, we should have guessed. When it came time for Brother Ali's set at the festival, it was a tough sell, given his slot on the side stage during the main stage set of icon KRS-ONE. My insistence that Ali was the man to see convinced my friends, and I was amazed that by the start of his set, against that of KRS-One, there were several thousand strong waiting for Ali. In just a few short years, his star was rising. That message, that foundational vibration, was resonating in a lot more people than I would have guessed. It was reflected in the very songs he was now crafting. It was no longer "I will overcome" but "I have overcome" and "look at us now". The entire set was a living embodiment of the joyous experience of beating the odds through sheer force of will and impeccable style.  By the end of his raucous set, nearly a third of the main stage crowd had drifted from the iconic KRS, to share in the magic happening on the side stage.

Later, on the highway home, we were sideswiped in our tiny coup by a double tractor-trailer that knocked us into a cement highway divider. Incredibly, we emerged completely unscathed (minus a side view mirror). We pulled immediately into a nearby rest stop, literally kissed the ground and began holding each other. Inspired, I moved to the jambox and the first sounds we heard from that point was Brother Ali's opening to "Fresh Air"

"I'm the luckiest son of bitch that ever lived!"

A couple years ago, Chrissy found Jesus. No not that wine-making surfer dude Mel Gibson tortured the fuck out of in "The Passion". She did however meet the love of her life in an American marine named Jesus, who was stationed in Korea while she was teaching abroad. With the passing of her mother, Chrissie is leaving Monday to begin the rest of this life in Alabama. We could think of no better way of spending a final night together, than by spending it dancing alongside Brother Ali here in Toronto.

His set at Tattoo Rock Parlour was as engaging as always. In an era where social media creates this illusion of connectivity to the artists we love, Ali has long achieved this the old fashioned way. Through his songs, he has created a tangible access to his highs and his lows and instilled in us all that through the power of love, nothing can stand in the way of our happiness. From the pain of "Walking Away" and "Baby Girl" to the stubborn style of "Forrest Whitaker" and "Self Taught" the crowd was fully engaged in the truth that love has more power than anything that stands in our way. I could see it in Chrissy. I could hear it in Ali. I could feel it in myself.

We thank artists far too often for a good time. In Brother Ali, there are no words for his impact on our good life.

Enough With The Spice Girls ( or Telmo Rodriguez, Wine Warrior)

I never get tired of spending a couple hours watching the heavyweights in the world of wine play "swinging dicks" against the most iconic traditionalists of European wine. Thus I don't often go to long between viewings of documentary film "Mondovino". From Michel Rolland, to the family Mondavi down through the fantastically stubborn Hubert De Montille, the characters are endlessly fascinating and the clever tactical ploy of telling a story with no narration whatsoever allows for a playful plausible deniability that the filmmakers are in fact taking sides on the issues before the lens. The enduring and subtle genius of the film however, lies in its tapping of the most fundamental divide in the world of wine. The battle between process and place as the most important aspect of winemaking.



It is a constant and ever present debate. It bleeds into every wine list, every critical publication, and virtually any discussion you can have with wine producers. As recently as Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2013 issue, James Laube highlighted The Cube Project, a (somewhat) scientific approach to demonstrating which aspect "winemaker" or "terroir" plays a greater role in the end product. Laube clearly feels that the winemakers hand is the most important factor and his distinctly California-centric approach to wine is obvious, but like most of us in the trade, he is careful not to take definitive sides on the argument. I have long felt myself on the other side of that equation, recognizing that a great wine REQUIRES a great wine maker, but even a great winemaker has his hands tied by the source fruit. One has to look only as far as Niagara to see the impact the Beamsville Bench plays in elevating the wines from those vineyards from their neighbors. Yet I'm far from dismissive on the role of the process. Hell, my favourite Canadian winemaker, Andrzej Lipinski has made a career on his innovative process centric methods like appassimento and cigar barrels. Such fence sitters the lot of us wine folk.



Telmo Rodriguez is having none of that respectful nonsense. He fashions himself the renegade, the warrior, bent on putting place above process in the hearts and minds of Spanish Wine. Having had the opportunity to taste twice with the man in March, first here in Toronto, and then at Prowein in Dusseldorf, I can see that he comes by his campaign honestly.

Telmo Rodriguez, Toronto, Canada

For many decades after the advent of modern winemaking techniques began to sweep throughout the old world, large corporate wine producers in Rioja, shaped the landscape in their favour. Utilizing the regional regulatory systems, they built focus around brands, mass produced and easily recognizable. Masking the lack of character and distinction were terms like Reserva and Gran Reserva, which suggest elevation in quality, but in fact, are merely descriptors applied to wines that undergo a specific process. Spend enough time in a barrel, and you have a Gran Reserva, regardless of the actual quality in the bottle. So prolific were these large corporate houses, that they controlled nearly all the production in Rioja, and certainly all that was going for export. Instead of tasting the wide range of what Rioja wines COULD be, the world was only tasting the symmetrical and familiar wines of these well placed brands.



"It would be like turning on the radio, and only hearing The Spice Girls", says Telmo, quite astutely, of the landscape he returned to from his winemaking explorations in France.



Driven by the dynamic, terroir driven wines he experienced there, where the highest calibre wines were not determined by process, but rather their source vineyards, Telmo began his journey to transforming his homeland. His family estate, Remelluri, with winemaking roots that span over a millennium, still retain the regional categorical designations on some of their range. The Lindes de Remelluri line however, follow in Telmo's passion for village and vineyard designate wines. But through his growing little empire of terroirism, Telmo Rodriguez Compania De Vinos, he is meticulously waging war on the old guard of nondescript Spanish Wine. What began with Rioja has spread throughout Spain, as Telmo champions local varieties, old bush vines and select vineyards to showcase the wide array of juicy gifts available from all corners of Spain.



Whether it be the whimsical Godello or the sea swept Mencia of the As Caborcas Valldeorras, the mountain wines of Malaga, the elegant dusty Tempranillo of Rioja or the brooding blends of the Ribera Del Duero, tasting through his wines is all you need to grasp the impact that place has on every bottle. Both region by region, and also by following the chain in each from the least to the most focused geographical designations. James Laube can cite all the Cube Projects he would like, but a tasting such as this says everything one needs to know about the integral force "place" has on wine. As I finish through these tastings I can't help but recognize that even the few wines that I didn't really appreciate on their own, still played their part in the greater mosaic of what Telmo is trying to achieve.

Tasting with Telmo, Prowein, Dusseldorf, Germany

Having been blessed with the opportunity to taste side by side with him twice in succession, I was left in awe of the man's passion for his craft, which is most certainly contagious. That Spanish charm, does the experience no foul either. The impeccable dress, the longish hair that comes off as though the wind itself has placed each strand in its perfect place, the wit, the commitment and the insightfulness to shape the conversation in tandem with exactly what he wants you to experience within the glass. While the follicle counterpoint to Hunter S. Thompson, he embodies that devil may care spirit behind America's high king of counterculture.



I may sit on my fence between the wine world's greatest divide. But so long as I have a bottle of 2011 As Caborcas from the Spanish seaside, I'll be just fine.

2011 As Caborcas, Valdeorras, Spain

The Kessel Curse, 2nd Verse Same as the First (A chronology in failure)

With less than five minutes remaining in the gold medal game, Team USA found themselves on the brink of glory, carrying a 2 goal lead into the final stretch in a game that seemed locked given the air of defeat surrounding their rival Canadians. Problem for the Americans is that their team included a Kessel, and Toronto fans do not have to go very far back in time to recall being within minutes of glory, only to have Lucy yank away that football, leaving Charlie Brown ass backwards in the mud.

In spite of 56 minutes of lack lustre, uninspired hockey, Team Canada found the back of the net with 3 and a half minutes remaining, ensuring the ghost of big brother Phil would throwing fecal matter at the wall of the Kessel family would-be trophy room.

Dont think the hockey gods hate the Kessels? Tell me how this puck stays out of the empty net? Seconds after pulling their goalie, team Canada's MVP stands strong as the post is all that keeps them in this most unlikely of games.

Hollywood loves this shit, the Kessel family does not. Nothing like 6 goals combined against your blood in the dying minutes of cant lose hockey games to set a giant, Pee Wee Herman Foil-ball sized stone in the pit of your stomach. Tie game. This bitch is going to overtime.

In a moment that will be studied by the likes of Ashley Young, Garreth Bale and Luis Suarez as they aim to perfect their diving routines, Hailey Wickenheiser does her best swan dive after being breathed on by the last defender on her route to goal. Canadians and soccer fans everywhere are on their feet. Problem was...despite being fooled by her dive...the ref somehow does not call a penalty shot. We are then subject to several minutes of figuring out just what the fuck you do when its a 3 on 3 and you call a 2 minute cross checking penalty...You want talking points. This shit is talking points.  Deciding to make it up as they go...we have 4 on 3 hockey...not sure what would happen after 2 minutes...but that hardly matters...

'Cuz boom! CANADA WINS! Not gonna lie, it was a thing of beauty. Not to be lost in gutless referees, large posts and diving routines, this was a truly inspired moment which is exactly why sport is kind of a big deal. Also, there was a Kessel suited up for Team USA, and that can only mean one thing. Smile for the camera ladies!

Let this be a lesson. The next time you think that a Kessel has things sewn up...think again.