Sports radio legend Bob McCown quietly purchased Stoney Ridge Estate Winery a couple years back, and almost overnight breathed new life into one of Niagara's best kept secrets. Along the way they have joined forces with Mike Weir winery with Jeff Hundertmark overseeing the wine making at both properties. Bob's no bullshit approach to life dictated that this endeavour was to be as much steak as sizzle and from day one the results have been highly impressive. While the quality benchmark in Stoney Ridge's Excellence line of wines had already been well established (the award winning 2010 Chardonnay is a Niagara legend, and their Excellence Pinot Gris is remarkable through several recent vintages), the real turnaround has been at the Weir brand, where wines that had stagnated on the great planes of boredom for many years have really come into their own under Hundertmark's guidance. For a long time this line relied on the branding of its namesake golfer to sell the bottle. Now these wines can sell themselves.
It was thus a logical place for Canadian rock icons The Tragically Hip to turn when they decided to make a wine to commemorate the 20th anniversary of their "Fully Completely" album. 2012 was an incredible and generous vintage for the big red grapes, and thus a Bordeaux blend made sense to the both the band and the winery. Originally, Bob's business acumen kicked in, suggesting a premium grape selection with an elaborate bottling, knowing 8000 bottles would fly regardless of price, but the band insisted on keeping this within the grasp of their die hard fans. The end result a wine with small town charm, whose bold spirit fully flies the banner of the album, fully inviting you to the glass and completely winning your devotion.
I was at a gathering at Bob's sprawling homestead to celebrate the success of Stoney Ridge back when the wine was first released before the holidays. On a night meant to celebrate Stoney Ridge, with celebrities like Pinball Clemmons and Bob as host, it was instead Fully Completely that kept the room buzzing. Looking for a place to happen, meant finding another decanter full of Fully Completely.
Stoney Ridge sold through 80% of the stock in a matter of days. Since the LCBO got their hands on this last 20%, I promise you it won't last long on the shelves at Vintages. Get on this while you can before Ry Cooder is singing the eulogy.
Stoney Ridge Estate Winery - Fully Completely
2012
Niagara, Canada
$24.95
Built for the campfire, roasting burgers while someone's strumming wheat kings and pretty things. A rustic Bordeaux blend that debunks an American myth. Great wines like great bands can come from the great white north. Red and black fruit with firm tannins and a smokey streak which sticks throughout. Edgy and charismatic. Everything in a glass as The Tragically Hip put into a record 20 years before.I Left My Wallet In Montefalco
It was a rainy afternoon in Umbria. Having survived a hellish 24 hour detour through the excess of Rome, I was more than happy to settle in to the country charm of my hosts at Cantina Chiorri in the hills outside of Perugia. Belly full from the first of many waistline destructive feasts courtesy of my hosts I was nearly reluctant to get into a car to tour the Umbrian countryside. But you don't pass when the Mayor of Montefalco comes to give you his personal tour of his homeland.
I had met Valentino Valentini the week before at Prowein in Dusseldorf. I was scouting for an online wine agency start up "The Wine Merchant" and Umbrian wines in particular caught my attention at the show in Germany. His family winery Bocale produced a singularly stunning Sagrantino Di Montefalco, and I felt then as I do now, that Sagrantino will be one of the next big things in the world of wine. But this never once felt like a sales call. As we drove through the ancient hilltop fortresses that now make up the small towns of Italy's greenbelt, his pride and enthusiasm for his homeland was contagious. Valentino's a man whose as much concerned with the success of his mesmerizing community as he is his own winery. And there is a lot to love. His passion comes honestly, as he spent nearly a decade as Mayor of Montefalco. After hours of driving through the landscape of alternating vineyards and ancient strongholds that overlook the valley we finally arrived at Bocale.
Like almost all the great wine producers in the world of wine, they focus on just a few things and they do them very well. A Sagrantino, the staple of Umbrian reds, a Rosso (blending Sangiovese and Sagrantino, meant to drink while Sagrantino ages) and a Passito (for dessert). For the uninitiated, Sagrantino brings the rich fruit profile of Bordaux varietals with the tannic grip of the most daring Nebiolo. Its an aggressive beast that with the advances of modern winemaking results in a wine that is finally ready to set the world on fire. 91 points from Wine Spectator shows I'm not just blowing smoke.
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| Bocale in the autumn. Also truffle season. So yeah go there. |
Bocale Vineyards - Sagrantino Di Monefalco
2010 Umbria, Italy
$39.95
A dazzling rush of blackberry interlaced with exotic spiced notes, carried by a massive wall of structure that begs for some cellar time (or at least a healthy dose of decanting). A Rambunctious sort that plays well with like minded food. Game friendly and built to last.
Trophies and Tackle
Some Vintages releases are created better than others. This one is an absolute embarrassment of riches. From big game trophies from hallowed grounds like Napa and Bordeaux, to the kinds of value wines from throughout the world that spark the fire that is the burning desire to have such marvels in your personal collection. Frankly it is all too much to fit into one two week budget. All I can do is highlight the best, and wish you and your credit card all the luck in the world.
TOP VALUE WINES
Rabl - Gruner Veltliner "Loss"
2013
Kamptal, Austria
$14.95
Casa Silva - Los Lingues Carmenere
2012
Colchagua Valley, Chile
$15.95
Paul Jaboulet Aine - Cotes Du Rhone "Secret De Famille"
2012
Rhone Valley, France
$16.95
Boutari - Grande Reserve
2008
Naoussa, Greece
$17.95
Yalumba - Shiraz
2014
South Australia, Australia
$18.95
Chateau Peyros - Old Vines Madiran
2009
Southest France, France
$18.95
Vineland Estates - St Urban Vineyard Riesling
2012
Niagara, Canada
$19.95
Trimbach - Riesling
2012
Alsace, Canada
$21.95
Luca - Laborde Syrah
2012
Mendoza, Argentina
$24.95
Domaine Queylus - Tradition Pinot Noir
2011
Niagara, Canada
$29.95
TOP TROPHY WINES
Antinori - Pian Delle Vigne Brunello Di Montelcino
2009
Tuscany, Italy
$59.95
Chateaux Malescot St Exupery - Margaux 3er Cru
2011
Bordeaux, France
$89.95
Kistler - McCrae Vineyard Chardonnay
2012
Sonoma, United States
$103.95
Dominus
2011
Napa Valley. United States
$176.95
Chateau Pontet Canet - Pauillac
2011
Bordeaux, France
$174.85
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