Writing this piece gets harder each new year. First, I'm getting older, which has a direct correlation to becoming lamer. With the exception of Peter Boyd, we shed equal parts follicles and street cred with each passing day. Tapping the sonic oil sands for usable energy is the work of younger stronger and more voracious men than I. Processing this Bitumin into digestable linguistic fuel is a whole other thing. Writers tend to write...these days, with the launch of
The Wine Merchant I am lucky to jot down a grocery list, let alone hone the craft of a proper wordsmith. Not all of us can be Kanye West after all. Fishdicks for the rest of us!
Nonetheless I kicked my way through nearly 200 new records from the 2013 vintage, and I have hit 2000 wines tasted since I began keeping tabs nearly 3 years ago. Thus the pieces are all there, far be it for me to neglect the puzzle. The best records, their best pairings. Here goes our 4th spin around the grape.
No Kanye No Beyone No Timberlake. I almost included a Drake album. For real. Man still cant rap from the street...but that r&b tip is for real. It was an impressive vintage for lost causes, old vets and unsung heroes alike. Avenged Sevenfold, Tricky and The Flatliners all crafted gems that couldn't quite crack the big stage. Stray From The Path made me excited about hardcore again. Kendrick Lamar turned hip hop on its head with 5 minutes battlerapping ALL OF HIP HOP on Outta Control, yet his King of New York mixtape still didn't make the list. While I was hard pressed to find a CLASSIC record in 2013, cracking the top 20 might have been as tough a challenge as ever.
Lets get spinning. Lets get drinking.
1. RJD2 - More Is Than Isn't
Pairing: 1998 Ornellaia, Toscany, Italy
Not gonna lie, when I first spun this record, all I wanted was an RJ album that didn't suck. Something along the lines of Since We Last Spoke would have been delightful. Thing with RJ for the past half dozen years, is that like any artist worth his salt, he exited the comfort zone created by his iconic Deadringer LP. Unfortunately for the listening public, the results had been mixed at best. In searching for new forms of expression he graced places he was never meant to go. Fortunately that journey lead him to here. To this. An album as close to perfect as he has ever made. EPIC collaborations with STS, Phonte and Blueprint headline the show, but the instrumental work is an innovative and enticing and every bit built for long nights on moonlit highways.
No better way to cap off an endless evening on the highway than to open up the best bottle of wine I tasted this year. The 1998 Ornellaia that dragon you have chased ever since the day you tasted your first "ah-hah" glass of wine. Balance and harmony in ways I never thought possible. Whatchu got there sugah?
RJD2 ft. STS - See You Leave
2. Daft Punk - Random Access Memories
Pairing: 2000 Pol Roger Cuvee Winston Churchill, Champagne, France
Another hero from the dustbin, Daft Punk dropped this record out of nowhere and found that mythical middle ground between pop accolades and critical acclaim. Its that rare record that has no enemies. Along with partner in crime, the equally charming Pharrell Williams, Daft Punk lit up dance floors, backyard bbq's and headphones with equal grace and engagement. In spite of dropping very early in the year, I still haven't managed to get sick of any part of this record.
It's bubbly effervescence makes it an ideal dance partner to the Pol Roger. Stone cold cool, as snug as your sisters jeans, and bouncing with energy, this is champagne without peer.
Daft Punk - Lose Yourself To Dance
3. The Devil Makes Three - I'm A Stranger Here
Pairing: 2010 Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel, Napa Valley, United States
Modern maestros of Bluegrass, The Devil Makes Three had laid down some lofty expectations given their body of work in advance of this new record. Country with grit has been awakening on the modern American palate in recent years and here is another slick addition to the menu. Tap the toes and get er done in a way thats more about integrity than posturing on a John Deere or ripping on homosexuals from behind your duckblind.
While whiskey is always the logical companion for the Devil Makes Three (in particular Jack, Ole #7), this list is about wine pairings and I have just the solution. Hands down the highlight from my trip in 2012 to Napa's preeminent Zinfandel farm, The Black Chicken is that wild robust and rustic wonder that makes sense of whittling wood with a mouthful of chew over sunset on the ranch. Satiate that eternal cowboy!
The Devil Makes Three - Worse Or Better
4. Mayer Hawthorne - Where Does This Door Go
Pairing: 2011 Big Head Wines Chenin Blanc, Niagara, Canada
It's a late summer afternoon, your college room mates are in town, and you have the weekend off. You hastily summon up a crew of your best locals to round out the guest list, you light the patio lanterns and lay out the munchies. All you need is the perfect soundtrack to a summer evening in the city. Forget Songza cuz Mayer Hawthorne has crafted the perfect record. Just as danceable as it is meant to colour an evening getting to know that girl from the next building while your friends mingle amidst your stunning display of hospitality. A genre bending spectacle of good times for that discerning young citizen graduating from the school of kegstands and dancehalls. Our little boys all grows up.
Big things are happening not only on your patio, but in Niagara as well. At the head of this movement is Andrzej Lipinski and his Big Head Wines virtual winery. While the 2012 was the platinum award winner, I'm more partial to the 2011, his first Big Head release, especially as it relates to this record. There is something surreal happening in this wine, its a down the rabbit hole experience, cascading with textures and tiny truths just waiting to reveal themselves.
Mayer Hawthorne - Allie Jones
5. Action Bronson - Blue Chips 2
Pairing: 2012 Pearl Morisette Cabernet Franc, Niagara, Canada
Clearly not one to let go of momentum (or a pot de jous...or a G-Pen) Bronson has done nothing but tour relentlessly, film Vice food specials and continue to drop new records. While Saab Stories and his Alchemist collaboration had me wondering if the well was running a tad dry, along comes a new record with Party Supplies on the decks and voila, another tasting menu of ridiculous samples, floated by a stream of rhymes centred around fine dining, hookers and hookahs. Party Supplies brings out the best in Bam Bam, as he crafts sensual hip hop narratives of a life lived at its largest.
For an artist as eclectic as Bronsolino, I have no choice but to resort to my ultimate pairing wine, Cabernet Franc. Franc in the Loire tends to over accentuate its vegetal side, but in the new world, more full bodied examples allow those green notes to dance with rich fruit in a step that plays just as well with your salad course as it does with osso buco garnished with sweetbreads. And while its still just a pup in a barrel, the 2012 Cab Franc is already the best one I have tasted in my entire life. Hands down. No contest. I have little doubt that by the time it is bottled it will emerge as the single best wine ever born of Niagara.
Action Bronson - Amadu Diablo
6. Melt Yourself Down - Melt Yourself Down
Pairing: 1975 Chateau Longueville Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Party anthems for a trek through the dark heart of Morocco. Bedouin dust and jazzy techno beats entwine in a surreal oddessey worthy of William Burroughs at his worst. Infectious worldbeat rythyms in a pulsating groove that lays waste to any semblance of safety or sanity. The old soul gets its shiny new heartbeat.
The desert oasis theme doesn't come across any better than Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux aged to its limits. Tasted this just before Christmas this year and was floored at once by the gripping earth side, as demonstrative as any desert, which carried in its heart a quieting but still fleshy underbelly. In the darkest corner of the bottle was the mashable madness of the shady underground of Tangiers.
Melt Yourself Down - We Are Enough
7. Protest The Hero - Volition
Pairing: 2009 Arietta Variation One
Back in 2005 I was knee deep in a glorious ocean of ruling metal. Bands like Avenged Sevenfold, Killswitch Engage and Protest The Hero were peaking with some of the best shredding I have ever heard. Somewhere along the way each of these bands managed to stray from the path to varying degrees, None managed to rekindle that magic from nearly a decade ago. This year all 3 unleashed fantastic return to form monsters, but only Protest The Hero managed not only to restoke the fire, but may have constructed a new height in burning effigy. Even more badass, this record came to life thanks to a crowdfunding campaign that makes it not only sonically relevant, but socially as well. I remember these kids playing my club Shadow in Guelph 10 years ago to 80 people sandwiched inside a basement of a crack hotel. Mad epic journey points!
This syrah dominant blend exhibits that same wild child streak that takes hold in every mosh pit. Take safety in the solace of Chardonnay if you like. Drake made an album just for you this year. Its pretty good too. But if the road less travelled is your thing, yet you still expect nothing but the finest things this life has to offer. Spin this record, open this bottle, and gear up for some epic battles of NHL 94 on Sega Genesis.
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Protest The Hero - Clarity
8. Charles Bradley - Victim Of Love
Pairing: 1999 Rolly Gassman Riesling, Alsace, France
Nowhere near the legendary output of his 2011 debut, but the newest star of Daptone Records unleashes yet another crowd pleaser, ensuring the feel good story of the century rolls on. Its only natural given that "No Time For Dreaming" was the sum of an untapped reservoir of 40 some years of musical expression. Still, the worlds oldest rookie of the year and his collaborators have delivered a standout record. The exploration of some new musical elements also moves him light years forward from his "Black Velvet/James Brown Jr." days. Dripping with funk sweat and grime, Charles Bradley remains the must see man of the new millennium.
Charles Bradley reminds us that some things do not come into their own until well past ones expected prime. The same can be said for this Riesling from Rolly Gassman, that still grows in expression with each new year, now over a decade since its release. The years have carved an experience into the very being of this juice, that must be lived to believe.
Charles Bradley - Where Do We Go From Here
9. Deltron 3030 - The Event 2
Pairing: 2011 Olivier Bernstein Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Base
Del Tha Funkee Homosapien remains amongst the most confounding MC's in the universe. At times he ranks amongst the most unlistenable microphone fiends in the game. But in the right hands he can spit flow that would make Mt Etna jelly. There are few better hands than Dan The Automator and Kid Koala, and the new Deltron collaboration delivers a vibe without peer. Del comes alive over each and every track, and the dysptopian futuresound theme never comes close to getting tired. Each man in this holy trinity have their own incredible careers, but this second Deltron record has me thinking of a future where they get together more than once a decade.
Like Del, Pinot in the wrong hands, from the wrong place, can be the most insipid tastes in wine, But from Grand Cru vineyards, and in the hands of a master, the results can be stunning. Even at this young age, it is an exotic black fruit cocktail, weightless yet dense and absolutely poetic. Wonder how it might amaze when we get Deltron part 3...
Deltron 3030 - City Rising From The Ashes
10. The Uncluded - Hokey Fright
Pairing: 2011 Malivoire Musque Spritz
In a year that championed the comeback and the collaboration there is nowhere to be seen an album quite so charming as this.
The musical marriage of the campy stylings of Kimya Dawson and the alliterary rambles of Aesop Rock come together in a partnership of the most unique and endearing sound I may have ever encountered. This brave blend could have been a disaster of inaudible madness but instead emerges the awkward gem of the year. Anthems for the outcast in an engaging blanket of understanding. These are my favourite people on Earth. Real talk.
Speaking of strange bedfellows, the Chardonnay Musque clone is the dynamic result of a bizarre marriage. Malivoire takes it to strange new places allowing both a big dose of residual sugar in tandem with an effervescent spritz that bubbles with the same charm of a Kimya Dawson verse. Crazy weird in all the right places, this wine was meant for this record. No questions asked.
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The Uncluded - Eyeball Soup
11. The Fuzz - The Fuzz
Pairing: 2011 Rosewood Estates Lock Stock & Barrel, Niagara, Canada
Garage seems to have arrived at a bit of a comeback (or maybe I'm just catching on), but I witnessed crowd enthusiasm at a fever pitch as Toronto's Silver Dollar Room was entirely floored by Bass Drum of Death. Despite that sort of live experience the better record from the new guard of garagistas comes from the self titled debut of The Fuzz. Big points to driving long past the genre standard 3 minutes on several tracks, here is a band so comfy in their 3-chord clothes they are not afraid to step outside into out and out bouts of rif rock.
For a record that sweats out so much cool, only the most badass of wines will suffice. The Lock Stock & Barrel is just that. A Bordeaux style blend with all the swagger its branding commands. Rugged fruit harnessed in Fonzarelli clad leather. As Ash from Army of Darkness insists, "Hail To The King Baby".
The Fuzz - Raise
12. Valerie June - Pushin Against a Stone
Pairing: 2011 LaPierre Morgon, Beaujolais, France
As the world once again turns its ears toward Nashville, Valerie June emerges as one of its most endearing new voices. A stunning vocal achievement in every track keeps the listener hostage through her ensemble of Appalachian instrumentation in a masterpiece made for long afternoons on the front porch. The Dan Auerbach cameos provide all the street cred to take things to the next level.
Nobody does summer afternoons like cru Beaujolais and the LaPierre is a legendary example. Chill it, bring out the picnic basket and tell me you cant drink red wine with substance in the heart of summer.
Valerie June - Somebody To Love
13. Black Joe Lewis - Electric Slave
Pairing: 2010 David Arthur Elevation 1147 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, California
Following up the epic Scandalous LP from 2011 would prove to be no easy task. While Electric Slave never quite captures the soaring heights of its predecessor, its a further evolution of the Honeybear sound and serves up plenty to get excited about. Grittier than anything they have yet put out, Electric Slave is an ecstatic embrace of musical integrity placed before compromising in search of crossover appeal. If you cant get behind the slavedriver that is Black Joe Lewis, get out the way.
In pairing David Arthur's Elevation 1147 Cabernet I'm looking to tap the gritty nature of the record with the legendary and fully discernible Rutherford dust. Few examples of terroir are as evidently distinguishable in the new world as the famous dusty bottom end of wines from this Napa AVA, This wine absolutely dazzles with rich layered fruit tied together with that celebrated grit.
Black Joe Lewis - Make Dat Money
14. J. Cole - Born Sinner
Pairing: 2010 Neyers Conn Valley Ranch Merlot, Napa, California
They arrived in tandem, Roc Nation's new J's, to fight for the Throne owned by boss and icon Jay Z. While Jay Electronica was touted as the heir apparent to change the game, it was J. Cole whose spent the past 4 years putting out a string of quality releases, while J Elect has been content to try to sleep his way into a billion dollar European banking fortune. That underdog ethic has served Cole well, a sincere humility to roll with his undeniable style and flow. His Truly Yours EP almost cracked the top 20 as well, and marks a continued demonstration of top flight hip hop.
The underground fighting spirit is the heart of this pairing, Somehow the world let a silly movie convince us that Merlot was a lesser grape, best used in blends. Oblivious to the fact that many of the worlds highest rated, most sought after right bank Bordeaux wines were in fact 100% Merlot. Here in the new world, Bruce Neyers takes the underdog to new heights with his Conn Valley ranch bottling, Rich and elegant, with a lingering mint mocha dance party in the back end, it most certainly wont let anyone down, not even Nas.
J. Cole - Let Nas Down
15. Rapsody - She Got Game
Pairing: 2011 Domaine Tempier Rose, Bandol, France
9th Wonder's wunderkind of his Jamla crew announced her arrival with authority with this mixtape. Her movie reference lyrical stylings may prove gimmicky over the long term, but if she can grow to tap a greater lyrical reservoir in time Kendrick may have to call out at least this one lady. The collaborations don't hurt on this one either, with standout performances from the likes of Phonte, Common and more. Also not to be missed, is yet another production master class courtesy of 9th.
Much like Kendrick didn't bother calling out any female MC's in his now infamous claim to King of New York, many of the best cellars in the world are absent of any Rose. Its a similar fools game to ignore wines of such quality as top class Rose. While Brad and Angelina may be grabbing headlines with their offering, the championship belt still resides with Domaine Tempier's Bandol Rose. Classic in every sense. its a Rose wine for every season and commands attention from even the most snobbish of tasters.
Rapsody - Feel Like
16. John Legend - Love in the Future
Pairing: 2008 Marc Morey et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondon, Burgundy, France
Soulful RnB is also on an upswing in recent years and atop this years class is John Legend. Guilty of being more formulaic than the more abrasive and experimental tandem of Frank Ocean and Miguel, it is nonetheless a fantastically charming collection of pulsating romance and heartbreak.
Nothing oozes romance more than Burgundy, and Chassagne-Montrachet just might be the pinnacle of white Burgundy. Sublime acidity provides the backbone to the most luscious flesh. The kind of wine that reminds you of long and slow baby making.
John Legend - So Gone
17. The Bronx - IV
Pairing: 2007 Fumanelli Amarone Octavius, Veneto, Italy
California's mad men of the mariachi are back doing what they do best with their 4th installment of pedal to the floor rock and roll. Songs like Life Less Ordinary and Last Revelation are a throwback to the golden days of alt rock radio, while the entire album is dripping in the hard driving, racing through the dessert in a convertible evocative hard rock their fans have come to love.
So what wine does one make their companion racing down Route 66? For my Mustang convertible, there is only one, Octavious Amarone from Marchesi Fumanelli. Not while I'm driving though...Racing under the influence is so Justin Bieber.
The Bronx - Under The Rabbit
18. Morcheeba - Head Up High
Pairing: 2002 Bollinger Rose, Champagne, France
Veterans of the 90's electro boom had a banner year in 2013. From Daft Punk to Tricky, artists from the golden age of trip hop and alternative electro, dusted off their mixers for a second renaissance and Morcheeba was another unlikely addition to the fray. While dubstep fades into fad, here is proof that legends are far from crafted overnight.
Electronic anthems have no better dance partner than champagne, and like Morcheeba, Bollinger is an old vet still making its mark.
Morcheeba - Call It Love
19. Portugal The Man - Evil Friends
Pairing: 2009 Antinori Guado El Tasso, Bolgheri, Italy
Alaska's greatest export continue to spin their brand of electro pop meets 70's psychadelia into fantastic fusion. Another theme of the year seems to be artists having a hard time matching the outstanding achievements in 2011 (see Charles Bradley and Black Joe Lewis) but like the others, that take nothing from this run of albums. The remarkable thing with Portugal The Man is their knack for dropping records that continue to grow with each new listen. Like great wines, they really do bottle age.
Like many of the great wine dynasties, Antinori has struggled to meet their lofty standards of quality across the board as their production continues to expand seemingly exponentially. That said, their best bottlings still deliver on the Antinori name, and this gem from Bolgheri is a pristine example. So much happening that its difficult to take it all in one sitting. So don't. Spend the day with this record on repeat and this wine in your decanter. The gifts will keep on giving. Once as remote as Alaska in the Tuscan wine scene, as the world races to the riches of the Arctic bounty, so goes the Tuscan wine machine into the heart of Bolgheri.
Portugal The Man - Creep in a T-shirt
20. Vampire Weekend - Modern Vampires of The City
Pairing: 2006 Domaine Faury Condrieu, Rhone Valley, France
This was a long drawn out decision given how much of this record is average at best. With incredibly tasty records from Motorhead, Madlib and Drake all qualified to take this final spot, I reluctantly give the nod to Vampire Weekend on the strength of just 2 of the tracks, Yeah Hey, and Step. I am likely doing a disservice to Modern Vampires by being so dismissive about so much of its flesh, yet these 2 songs are so hopelessly catchy and unique they propel their way into the top 20 by themselves.
Condrieu and I have a bit of a romantic history. Its one of those tiny appelations that garner little notice from the everyday wine drinker, but for those fortunate to have met this little slice of soulmate, its love at first taste. That real love. That most of us spend our whole lives searching for, through bad marriages, children and bouts of lingering lonliness. Those rare few of us that get here, we know there will never be another for as long as we both shall live. All that to say I have no idea why it pairs with this record, other than to suggest you should step to my girl.
Vampire Weekend - Step
