The Sommeliers Guide to The Best Records of 2010

Before I begin I'd like to thank a few people who made this possible. First Adam Newton, whose concept this is (though dont worry dude, your SPECIFIC Sommeliers Guide is still in the works...research is a bitch) and second to Trish Hernandez who departs the team at ONE as a legend and her continued interest in my scribbles over the years has always kept me going. And yeah....here we go...2010 was probably the best year for overall number of quality records in the past 4 years. Still very few I would call classics but 40 plus records that will stay in my regular rotation for years to come. Here's my guide to the best of the best, complete with wine pairings to elevate that listening experience to the next level. Dig in.



1. PLAN B - The Defamation of Strickland Banks
    PAIRING - 1986 Chateau Palmer

Hands down the best record of the year, Plan B's musical reinvention is an awe-inspiring journey back to the glory days of Motown, through a more seasoned lens. His soul concept album literally evokes the ghost of Smokey Robinson at every turn, leaning only in small (and remarkably well placed) doses of the hip hop stylings of his previous work.

Having been described as an iron fist in a velvet glove, the wines of the Bordeaux appelation Margeaux are the perfect pairing for a record that thumps with the aggression of a football hooligan and soars with the grace of gospel song. And the 86 Palmer is the best I ever tasted.

Plan B - Stay Too Long
Plan B - Traded In My Cigarettes

2. THE BLACK KEYS - Brothers
    PAIRING - Chateneuf Du Pape

A record that fully built upon the foundation of their Danger Mouse collaboration, Attack and Release and enshrined the blues rockers with their very own place in the musical landscape. While their early records show the promise it was these past 2 records where they really found themselves and have delivered some of their best work. If I had one complaint about Brothers is that it fades towards the back half of the record, but its hits are so big I'll forgive the overindulgence.

The pairing of the flagship wine of the Rhone Valley is a simple tribute to its ability to reflect the grimey roots of its rural origins, while dusting off a snappy sophistication that proves irrisistible to the tidiest hipster d-bag. I also just described this record.

 The Black Keys - Next Girl

3. THE DRUMS - The Drums
    PAIRING - Aperol Spritz

Its a worthy achievement for an artist to unleash a proper throwback record. Its tried all the time but to truly piece together a progressive record that evokes the spirit previous era without sounding contrived is something of an elusive artistic statement. Then I met the Drums, whose whimsical journey through the 1980's is as much Delorean as it is Geo Metro.

The cocktail that blends Italian aperatif Aperol with Sparkling wine is every bit as romantic as it is rambunctious. A blend that plays to this record like crude oil to the Gulf of Mexico.

The Drums - Down By The Water

4. GIRL TALK - All Day
    PAIRING - Sangria

I was convinced that after Feed The Animals, that Girl Talk would fade from memory. Afterall, how could you possibly amass another collection of dancefloor classics old and new, that would mashup just so delightfully. A proper followup was the stuff of daydreamers, not practical in the slightest. Apparently Billy Pilgrim HAS become unstuck in time. Who knew?

As for the pairing, Sangria is the ultimate mashup, and fuels the sort of silly dancefloor antics that this record makes in spades.

Girl Talk - This Is The Remix

5. J COLE - Friday Night Lights
    PAIRING - Moet Mimosas

Fans of old school/east coast/concious hip hop have taken delight in the new Roc Nation label of Jay Z. His primary signings, Jay Electronica and J Cole (you have to wonder if he's making room for J-Live or resurrecting J-Dilla from the grave) deliver the type of lyrical flow thats entirely absent from the cryptwalking autotune garbage of radio hip hop. Cole's mixtape picks up right where his bumpin summer single "Who Dat" left off and from front to back this record just doesnt stop.

As for the mimosas...if its good enough for Jay-Z, its good enough for me.

J Cole ft. Drake - In the Morning

6. GORILLAZ - Plastic Beach
    PAIRING - Gewurtztraminer

Quite simply Damon Albarn is the Ryan Giggs of modern music. Never the best player of his time, yet still able to deliver reliable top quality material, day in and day out for over 2 decades. There is a workmanlike charm beneath the sleek creativity that set Albarn apart in the same way United's alltime warrior stands on the shoulders of giants. From catchy jingles to morse code, this record is everything you have come to expect from the Gorillaz.

In gewurtz you have a wine that explodes in tropical sweetness, yet bites with a peppery bite in all the right places. It makes it the ultimate pairing with Thai cuisine...and considering my last phad thai was enjoyed with Melancholy Hill quietly rolling along in the background, I'm gonna go ahead and vouch for this one.

Gorillaz - Glitter Freeze

BONUS TRACK - FOR THOSE WHO LIKED THIS, Check out THIS.

The latest Danger Mouse collaboration is a none so subtle tip of the hat to Gorillaz stylie. A worthy footnote in the evolving world of rock and roll.

The Broken Bells - The Ghost Inside

7. METHOD MAN/GHOSTFACE KILLAH/RAEKWON - Wu Massacre
    PAIRING - Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Napa Cabernet

Wu nation certainly had a banner year with this years edition of Rock The Bells featuring a fully reunited Wu Tang Clan (complete with Ol Dirty's son stepping in for his late father). Less acclaimed, yet no less incredible was this effort from half of the Wu camp. Meth and Ghostface continue to be the lyrical juggernauts of the Clan and are in fine form here amidst a compilation of some of the grimiest beats assembled since 36 Chambers. Picture yourself running the streets of Shaolin from the backseat of a 1970's Lincoln and you'll be right at home.

Diamond Creek's Volcanic Hill cab is the definitive picture of strength with irreverence that subtly betrays its underlying class. Ripe fruit riddled with the smokey minerality of a gangland driveby. The perfect partner for a Wu-Massacre.

Method Man, Ghostface Killah & Raekwon - Pimpin Chipp

8. COMEBACK KID - Symptoms & Cures
    PAIRINGS - Tawse Cabernet Franc

Its a rare feat in punk hardcore to rekindle the fire of a classic record. Of my favorite hardcore bands, from Bane to Raised Fist to Another Breath are case studies in bands who find that magic spark for one beautifully angry record, and spend a career chasing that dragon. Canada's best kept secret Comeback Kid were well on their way down that road. Sure their live shows have never lost a step, replete with intensity & fury that could be tasted. But their records have always been a shadow of the greatness of Wake The Dead. That is until this fall when they unleashed a record that gets better and better with every listen. Furious pace, gang vocals, social commentary and relentless beat are all fused in just the right places and before I'm done with it, I might just rank it higher than Wake The Dead.

For the pairing I'm suggesting the best kept secret in Canadian wine, the Cabernet Franc from Tawse. A beautiful vegetal side reminiscent of its Loire Valley roots, combined with the bold strength thats come to define the new world. A masterpiece.

Comeback Kid - GM Vincent & I

9. HOLY FUCK - Latin
    PAIRING - Vinho Verde

It was a pretty great year for electronic music. Though MGMT dropped the biggest ball since Bill Buckner, the likes of Caribou, LCD Soundsystem, The Chemical Brothers and The Scissor Sisters were on point with fantastic and frenetic dancefloor classics. Yet for my money the best of the bunch is right here with Holy Fuck. and quite literally....Holy Fuck.

In keeping with the "latin" theme, and every bit the crisp light bodied effervescence of dancefloor rocketfuel, there is the one and only take on Albarinho....VINHO VERDE!

Holy Fuck - Latin America
Holy Fuck - Red Lights

10. PORTUGAL THE MAN - American Ghetto
     PAIRING - Carmenere

The continuing musical evolution of Alaska's best export has been an impressive journey. The fusion of sounds from across the soundscape really comes into its own on their latest endeavor and stands as their best record to date. Infinitely catchy and altogether unique, American Ghetto is a must have.

In pairing with the Carmenere the focus is on this grapes ability to be easily drinkable, yet buoyed by a rich depth beneath the surface. Inviting at first glace, yet with the layers to keep you coming, its not unlike the girl you are going to marry.

Portugal The Man - All My People

11. JIMMY EAT WORLD - Invented
     PAIRING - Malbec

Its been a long time since Clarity and Bleed American, and in that time the genuine sincerity of a proper Jimmy Eat World recird has been sorely missed in the musical arena. They turn back the clock with their latest record and its truely a return to form that so endeared them to us in the first place. Cut might be the most hauntingly beautiful track of the year (though sadly blocked on youtube). But the whole spin is enough charm to keep you coming back over and over.

Built for youth and easy to drink are the big selling points for Argentina's goldenboy grape. Couldnt think of a better descriptor for Invented either.

Jimmy Eat World - Heart Is Hard To Find

12. JAY MALINOWSKI - Bright Lights & Bruises
     PAIRING - Barbera D'Asti

A strange year for Bedouin Soundclash in which their frontman's debut solo record outscored their own full length record in every possible way. From the reflective to the charming, this record is an emotive journey with such classics as Songs Never Sung and a redux of the pre-radio Bedouin anthem Santa Monica.

A record suitable for an Italian poet composing his darkest opus...and you better believe he'd be drowning in the ultimate Italian table wine.

Jay Malinowski - There's a Light

13. CEE LO GREEN - The Lady Killer
     PAIRING - Sauternes

The summer of 2010 will long be remembered for the viral explosion of Cee Lo's breakup anthem Fuck You. With tens of millions of youtube views within a week, it was an atomic bomb of pop music that even the most hardened music snob couldnt help but hum along to. The ensuing record is probably his best work to date, offering plenty to the listener to remind that he aint no one trick pony. In particular Old Fashioned might just be the ultimate expression of the soul man in this young century.

Sauternes is a world of its own. A classic and just like Cee Lo's love, Its right on time. Its timeless. Sugary sweet but with a steely backbone, it is a perfect expression of a man's proper love of a woman.

Cee Lo Green - Old Fashioned

14. THE SLACKERS - The Great Rocksteady Swindle
     PAIRING - Vouvray

I've long given up the hope that the world might once again be blessed with a classic record the likes of Redlight. But after a decided lull, the past 2 records have been a clear return to form for the hardest working ska band in North America. Long gone are the circus themes of Peculiar, and once again they tread the comfortable waters that made records like the Question, Redlight and Wasted Days such classics.

The Chenin blanc of Vouvray are a mainstay throughout the Parisian bistros...and listening to the Slackers has the power to take you there.

The Slackers - Same Every Day (live)

15. THE NEW PORNOGRAPHERS - Together
     PAIRING - Red Burgundy

For me 2010 is the year I finally figured out how to like albums by bands that I had previously had no use for. All buzz bands for the past number of years, The Arcade Fire, My Chemical Romance and The New Pornographers were all artists I just couldnt seem to enjoy. Suddenly came their new records and I find myself wondering was it just me finally opening my ears or did these artists all turn some corner with their new material? In the case of the Arcade Fire & The Pornographers it was probably my own stubborn breed of music snobbery that lends itself far more affinitively to the Gaslight Anthems of the world. Though in the case of MCR its definitely a case of maturing and finally producing a record that brings forth the talent they've long supressed with goth-riddled schlock. In the end it really doesnt matter, cuz  if you arent listening to records for pure hedonistic bliss you belong somewhere else my friend.

I pair this record with red burgundy for the elusive sophistication that sets apart the finest pinot noir from the rest. This record spins that same tightrope between subtle greatness and irrelevance that makes an instant classic.

The New Pornographers - We End Up Together
The New Pornographers - Moves

16. AM TAXI - We Dont Stand A Chance
     PAIRINGS - Lots of beer.

In a year where bands like Against Me! and The Gaslight Anthem did little to impress the new hoards of fans of the beard-clad, Nu-Springsteen folk punk circuit, newcomers AM Taxi deliver a pretty solid debut in this vein. Plenty of beer drinking and broken hearted anthems for the working class punk crowd. Not of the class of Chuck Ragan, but in a year where even the Alkaline Trio couldnt get it quite right....that'll do pig...

Labatt 50. Specifically.

AM Taxi - Woodpecker

17. ANGELS & AIRWAVES - Love
     PAIRINGS - Champagne

I never thought I'd never see the day I would put an Angels & Airwaves record on a best list. First, as a Blink fan I resent this bands existence. Second, as a man, I resent appearing like a giant vagina. Alas much like the debut from the All American Rejects years back, this is has etched its way into my guilty pleasures exemption. While they've stumbled to find an identity in their past records, this one comes together with the epic cohesion of U2 records when they didnt suck (read Joshua Tree/Rattle & Hum). The result is like falling in love for the first time.

True love deserves champagne. Nuff said.

Angels & Airwaves - Shove

18. TOBACCO - Maniac Meat
     PAIRING - Priorato

For fans of RJD2 and Cut Chemist, whove grown tired of awaiting solid new material from either. Maniac Meat hits the long devoid spot in the cockles of our hearts for electronic, jazz infused hip hop beats without MC's to go ahead and ruin everything. Note the Beck cameos.

My favorite Spanish wine region is notably difficult to farm, but the rewards are some of the most delicious grenache known to man. I find it a perfect compliment to mining the rugged terrain of underground beats.

Tobacco - Stretch Your Face

19. LIL BROTHER - Left Back
     PAIRING - Super Tuscans

No fan of LB will argue that Left Back is their best work. That said, repeated listens unveil a score of tracks that hit hard with their famed atmosphere backing another legitimate lyrical onslaught.

In the spirit of never settling on your laurels, I'm pairing Lil Brother to the winemakers who pioneered the Super Tuscans & IGT when they werent content to rest upon the DOCG laurels of Chianti. When you continue to push, the results are greatness.

Lil Brother - Revenge

20. THE KINGS OF NUTHIN - Old Habits Die Hard
     PAIRINGS - Makers Mark Bourbon.

My biggest dissapointment as a concert promoter was my inability to overcome this bands legal issues and get them over the border for a Guelph show. Getting down to Boston to see them in their hometown is still on the life's top 10 to do list. They do nothing to change the formula here. Hard nosed rockabilly for the drunk and disorderly.

Whiskey.

Kings Of Nuthin - Rythym And Booze


THE BEST OF THE REST - Didnt make the cut, but still worthy of cellaring.

The Damned Things
The Roots
Alkaline Trio
Cancer Bats
Caribou
Crime In Stereo
Spoon
Vampire Weekend
Cypress Hill
LCD Soundsystem
Two Door Cinema Club
The Flatliners
The Bouncing Souls
The Scissor Sisters
The Chemical Brothers
Foxy Shazam
Broken Bells
Avenged Sevenfold
Arcade Fire
As I Lay Dying
My Chemical Romance
Nas and Damian Marley
The National
Atmosphere
J-Live
Ghostface Killah
Bad Religion
Titus Andronicus

RECORDS THAT SUCKED AS THEY CUT

Four Year Strong
MGMT
Gaslight Anthem
The Hold Steady
Morcheeba
MIA
Bedouin Soundclash
Weezer
The Bled
Kanye West
Tokyo Police Club
Underoath

Well....thats it for 2010. All is well as we end the year. United at the top of the table...delicious food in our bellies...may the next year be as good for us all!

The Gourmet Food & Wine Expo and The Perils of the LCBO General List

 

There is one inherant problem with success, which simply put, is success itself. In English football this can be seen in the meteoric rise of obscure clubs to the lofty heights of the Premier League, only to realize they have not the grounds nor the resources to compete, leading to the demoralizing crash of relegation. In trendy new charcuterie bars there lies the danger of selling your meats faster than you can cure them. In the world of wine it manifests in gaining the demand to earn a spot in the hallowed grounds of the LCBO general list, only to buckle under the strain of mass production that renders your new vintages into vinegar. Walking past the hoards filling an entire convention hall, merely queing for upwards of 3 hours just to gain entry to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, it was clear that we were seeing an event that grown a tad to big for its britches. The sight of thousands slowly staggering through the que was more like a scene from a zombie apocalypse than a trade show.

Once inside things didnt fare much better, for overcapacity seemd a term absent from the organizer's vocabulary. The shoulder to shoulder action was more akin to a WWF Battle Royal trapped in an MC Escher canvas. I half expected at any minute to turn a corner to find Randy Savage snappin into a SlimJim and throwing me over some unforseen turnbuckle. Though to be fair, this was just as likely latent fear from being tackled on camera at last years Expo by MTV correspondent Sheena, who was attempting to wrestle away my Das Boot.

Granted, there was some culinary delights through each swarm of thirsty travellers...venison shortribs, succulent lobster snacks, pulled pork sliders...but none of it seemed worth risking a Camel Clutch for your troubles. By the time the tribal drums began thumping, inciting gaggles of denim-clad cougars to imagine themselves as Shakira, the floor began to resemble the chaos of the carribean carnival depicted in Hunter Thompson's Rum Diary. Finally, we sought refuge in the cozy confines of the Alexander Keiths tent, enjoying dice games & their new Harvest Ale ( a remarkably interesting dark ale...a surprise from the brewery that single handedly bastardized the term India Pale Ale.). Between that and dollar doubles of Rickards Dark with Le Brin cheese chunks, we soon realized there was little we could do but drink our faces off. Not that there is anything wrong with that. Come to this event expecting the sloppy circus of an Oktoberfest and you'll do just fine. But for the more discerning alcoholic there was little solace inside the storm.

The problem however runs far deeper than the over-population in the South Hall at the Metro Convention Centre. The root of this grimey fungus, lies within the show's wine focus on listings from an afforementioned big for its britches animal. the LCBO's General List. Its hard to blame the vendors. Given the cost of the rental space for an event of this stature, it makes little economic sense to peddle in wines that run for limited releases. Even the epic portfolios the likes of Lifford are reduced to their most unworthy (yet widely available) wines.

While the large majority of Lifford's impressive catalog is filled with consignment & limited release bottlings, their spread at the Expo was, for obvious reasons, stacked with their more widely available offerings. We began with a pretty nice prosseco from Santa Margherita, whose better known for their solid, if unremarkable pinot grigio. That said, cheap, uninspriring, but safe is exactly why people flock to both varieties. Here is where mass production does little to damage a reputation in that there is little reputation to plunder. We were spoiled here to try the best wine of the night with a taste of the exceptional Cabernet from Cakebread. Big, round yet oozing with elegance, this is the archetypal Napa Cab, and every bit worth the slew of tickets a taste demanded. We finished at Lifford with a house that absolutely exemplifies the peril of garnering success and sales, Louis Jadot. Their general label Burgundy was fair enough in the world of affordable pinot noir, but I out and out refused to subject our group to the Beaujelais-Villages from Jadot. Simply put this wine has gone down hill in each successive vintage since it earned a spot on the Vintage Essentials roster. While the agent defended this slide by citing vintage problems, I countered by pointing out that Jadot's Cru Beauj offerings from the Chateau Jacques label have remained outstanding through this period, elevating the Gamay nearly into pinot calibre. He remained insistant that over production was not an issue and challenged me to try the Village releases from 2010. We agreed to disagree and left in appreciation of the rare opportunity to chat about Cru Beauj.

I was pleasantly surprised to see my favourite estate on the Beamsville Bench, Rosewood offering nearly their full catalog. They gained a sizable buzz with their award winning 2007 Pinot Noir and stand as a rare combination Winery & Meadery. We began with the 2008 Pinot, which showed significant decline from its '07 predecessor. That said 2007 was a standout vintage while 2008 was anything but. Combine the increased demand from their newly aquired buzz, a lousy vintage, and dealing with the appropriately named heartbreak grape, one can let this dissapointment slide without pause. From there the dissapointment was over. Their 2009 Semillon was even better than the 2008 vintage I had enjoyed so much, carried by a powerful minerality and absolutely bubbling over with melon, peach, lemongrass and gooseberries. Also a winner was the 2008 Natalie's Riesling, which both floral, approachable and bone dry, exemplifies Ontario's natural ability to produce world class Riesling. We finished off the impressive tasting with their Mead Royale, made from 100% estate honey. Syrupy sweet with every bit of the balancing acidity that define the classic dessert wines, this one is a keeper.

The perils of general list offerings was nowhere more obvious than our visit to the Wines Of Spain booth. We approached with a level of excitement given the Spanish commitment to quality. But here, absent of the limited release goldmines of Priorat and the heavy hitters like Muga, our choices were less spectacular. Having recently gorged on an offering from Haza, and being a longtime fan of the Portugese side of the region, we began with a Ribeiro Del Duero. Our boredom was palpable. Next, we ventured for a Grenache, long my favorite of the red grapes. It bordered on undrinkable. Finally we left our fate in the hands of the agent asking for his choice as their best in show wine. The Rioja WAS drinkable, but barely, recalling the confines of Jackson Triggs....or Welch's.

And here lies in the true catch 22 of the LCBO's general list. To provide wines that are mass produced enough to be readily available at all locations, requires a reduction in quality that taints the true hedonistic pleasure of wine. One needs only to see once reliable labels like Goats Do Roam and Wolf Blass to see the strain of maintaining that production. Take Masi's Campofiorin, the original RIPASSO, whose 2007 vintage, arguably the best for the style, fall flat on its face. Further wines like Fuzion, or Yellowtail, which remain as they began, overproduced bargain wines with little to offer the distinguished pallette. Yet its this very ability to be recognizable that is required by the general list in the first place. A friend recently asked me for a suggestion for a slightly sweet off dry white wine, noting he was at a small LCBO. By that very shopping location I was handcuffed at what I could suggest, offering the pedestrian Pirerre Sparr Gewurtztraminer. Passable, yes. Available, yes. But shouldnt we be able to do better?

The good news is you can. With just a little bit of effort and some regular visitations to large Vintages sections, one can quickly begin huilding a library of superior wines that they are familiar and comfortable with. Better yet you can learn that you dont have to break the bank. Worst case, there are some easy general list and Vintages Essentials that ARE decent and reliable. Try your luck with Perrin's Cote Du Rhone, Sogrape's Gazela & Matues Signature, Berringer's Stone Cellars Cab, Montalto's Pinot Grigio, Chateau Des Charmes 2007 Pinot Noir, and Sella & Mosca's Cannonau Di Sardigna. All reliable, affordable, and readily available wines that can help set your beginner's cellar apart from the general malaise of the general list.

As for the Expo...bring your toga's and have some fun.