The Sommeliers Guide to The Best Records of 2010

Before I begin I'd like to thank a few people who made this possible. First Adam Newton, whose concept this is (though dont worry dude, your SPECIFIC Sommeliers Guide is still in the works...research is a bitch) and second to Trish Hernandez who departs the team at ONE as a legend and her continued interest in my scribbles over the years has always kept me going. And yeah....here we go...2010 was probably the best year for overall number of quality records in the past 4 years. Still very few I would call classics but 40 plus records that will stay in my regular rotation for years to come. Here's my guide to the best of the best, complete with wine pairings to elevate that listening experience to the next level. Dig in.



1. PLAN B - The Defamation of Strickland Banks
    PAIRING - 1986 Chateau Palmer

Hands down the best record of the year, Plan B's musical reinvention is an awe-inspiring journey back to the glory days of Motown, through a more seasoned lens. His soul concept album literally evokes the ghost of Smokey Robinson at every turn, leaning only in small (and remarkably well placed) doses of the hip hop stylings of his previous work.

Having been described as an iron fist in a velvet glove, the wines of the Bordeaux appelation Margeaux are the perfect pairing for a record that thumps with the aggression of a football hooligan and soars with the grace of gospel song. And the 86 Palmer is the best I ever tasted.

Plan B - Stay Too Long
Plan B - Traded In My Cigarettes

2. THE BLACK KEYS - Brothers
    PAIRING - Chateneuf Du Pape

A record that fully built upon the foundation of their Danger Mouse collaboration, Attack and Release and enshrined the blues rockers with their very own place in the musical landscape. While their early records show the promise it was these past 2 records where they really found themselves and have delivered some of their best work. If I had one complaint about Brothers is that it fades towards the back half of the record, but its hits are so big I'll forgive the overindulgence.

The pairing of the flagship wine of the Rhone Valley is a simple tribute to its ability to reflect the grimey roots of its rural origins, while dusting off a snappy sophistication that proves irrisistible to the tidiest hipster d-bag. I also just described this record.

 The Black Keys - Next Girl

3. THE DRUMS - The Drums
    PAIRING - Aperol Spritz

Its a worthy achievement for an artist to unleash a proper throwback record. Its tried all the time but to truly piece together a progressive record that evokes the spirit previous era without sounding contrived is something of an elusive artistic statement. Then I met the Drums, whose whimsical journey through the 1980's is as much Delorean as it is Geo Metro.

The cocktail that blends Italian aperatif Aperol with Sparkling wine is every bit as romantic as it is rambunctious. A blend that plays to this record like crude oil to the Gulf of Mexico.

The Drums - Down By The Water

4. GIRL TALK - All Day
    PAIRING - Sangria

I was convinced that after Feed The Animals, that Girl Talk would fade from memory. Afterall, how could you possibly amass another collection of dancefloor classics old and new, that would mashup just so delightfully. A proper followup was the stuff of daydreamers, not practical in the slightest. Apparently Billy Pilgrim HAS become unstuck in time. Who knew?

As for the pairing, Sangria is the ultimate mashup, and fuels the sort of silly dancefloor antics that this record makes in spades.

Girl Talk - This Is The Remix

5. J COLE - Friday Night Lights
    PAIRING - Moet Mimosas

Fans of old school/east coast/concious hip hop have taken delight in the new Roc Nation label of Jay Z. His primary signings, Jay Electronica and J Cole (you have to wonder if he's making room for J-Live or resurrecting J-Dilla from the grave) deliver the type of lyrical flow thats entirely absent from the cryptwalking autotune garbage of radio hip hop. Cole's mixtape picks up right where his bumpin summer single "Who Dat" left off and from front to back this record just doesnt stop.

As for the mimosas...if its good enough for Jay-Z, its good enough for me.

J Cole ft. Drake - In the Morning

6. GORILLAZ - Plastic Beach
    PAIRING - Gewurtztraminer

Quite simply Damon Albarn is the Ryan Giggs of modern music. Never the best player of his time, yet still able to deliver reliable top quality material, day in and day out for over 2 decades. There is a workmanlike charm beneath the sleek creativity that set Albarn apart in the same way United's alltime warrior stands on the shoulders of giants. From catchy jingles to morse code, this record is everything you have come to expect from the Gorillaz.

In gewurtz you have a wine that explodes in tropical sweetness, yet bites with a peppery bite in all the right places. It makes it the ultimate pairing with Thai cuisine...and considering my last phad thai was enjoyed with Melancholy Hill quietly rolling along in the background, I'm gonna go ahead and vouch for this one.

Gorillaz - Glitter Freeze

BONUS TRACK - FOR THOSE WHO LIKED THIS, Check out THIS.

The latest Danger Mouse collaboration is a none so subtle tip of the hat to Gorillaz stylie. A worthy footnote in the evolving world of rock and roll.

The Broken Bells - The Ghost Inside

7. METHOD MAN/GHOSTFACE KILLAH/RAEKWON - Wu Massacre
    PAIRING - Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Napa Cabernet

Wu nation certainly had a banner year with this years edition of Rock The Bells featuring a fully reunited Wu Tang Clan (complete with Ol Dirty's son stepping in for his late father). Less acclaimed, yet no less incredible was this effort from half of the Wu camp. Meth and Ghostface continue to be the lyrical juggernauts of the Clan and are in fine form here amidst a compilation of some of the grimiest beats assembled since 36 Chambers. Picture yourself running the streets of Shaolin from the backseat of a 1970's Lincoln and you'll be right at home.

Diamond Creek's Volcanic Hill cab is the definitive picture of strength with irreverence that subtly betrays its underlying class. Ripe fruit riddled with the smokey minerality of a gangland driveby. The perfect partner for a Wu-Massacre.

Method Man, Ghostface Killah & Raekwon - Pimpin Chipp

8. COMEBACK KID - Symptoms & Cures
    PAIRINGS - Tawse Cabernet Franc

Its a rare feat in punk hardcore to rekindle the fire of a classic record. Of my favorite hardcore bands, from Bane to Raised Fist to Another Breath are case studies in bands who find that magic spark for one beautifully angry record, and spend a career chasing that dragon. Canada's best kept secret Comeback Kid were well on their way down that road. Sure their live shows have never lost a step, replete with intensity & fury that could be tasted. But their records have always been a shadow of the greatness of Wake The Dead. That is until this fall when they unleashed a record that gets better and better with every listen. Furious pace, gang vocals, social commentary and relentless beat are all fused in just the right places and before I'm done with it, I might just rank it higher than Wake The Dead.

For the pairing I'm suggesting the best kept secret in Canadian wine, the Cabernet Franc from Tawse. A beautiful vegetal side reminiscent of its Loire Valley roots, combined with the bold strength thats come to define the new world. A masterpiece.

Comeback Kid - GM Vincent & I

9. HOLY FUCK - Latin
    PAIRING - Vinho Verde

It was a pretty great year for electronic music. Though MGMT dropped the biggest ball since Bill Buckner, the likes of Caribou, LCD Soundsystem, The Chemical Brothers and The Scissor Sisters were on point with fantastic and frenetic dancefloor classics. Yet for my money the best of the bunch is right here with Holy Fuck. and quite literally....Holy Fuck.

In keeping with the "latin" theme, and every bit the crisp light bodied effervescence of dancefloor rocketfuel, there is the one and only take on Albarinho....VINHO VERDE!

Holy Fuck - Latin America
Holy Fuck - Red Lights

10. PORTUGAL THE MAN - American Ghetto
     PAIRING - Carmenere

The continuing musical evolution of Alaska's best export has been an impressive journey. The fusion of sounds from across the soundscape really comes into its own on their latest endeavor and stands as their best record to date. Infinitely catchy and altogether unique, American Ghetto is a must have.

In pairing with the Carmenere the focus is on this grapes ability to be easily drinkable, yet buoyed by a rich depth beneath the surface. Inviting at first glace, yet with the layers to keep you coming, its not unlike the girl you are going to marry.

Portugal The Man - All My People

11. JIMMY EAT WORLD - Invented
     PAIRING - Malbec

Its been a long time since Clarity and Bleed American, and in that time the genuine sincerity of a proper Jimmy Eat World recird has been sorely missed in the musical arena. They turn back the clock with their latest record and its truely a return to form that so endeared them to us in the first place. Cut might be the most hauntingly beautiful track of the year (though sadly blocked on youtube). But the whole spin is enough charm to keep you coming back over and over.

Built for youth and easy to drink are the big selling points for Argentina's goldenboy grape. Couldnt think of a better descriptor for Invented either.

Jimmy Eat World - Heart Is Hard To Find

12. JAY MALINOWSKI - Bright Lights & Bruises
     PAIRING - Barbera D'Asti

A strange year for Bedouin Soundclash in which their frontman's debut solo record outscored their own full length record in every possible way. From the reflective to the charming, this record is an emotive journey with such classics as Songs Never Sung and a redux of the pre-radio Bedouin anthem Santa Monica.

A record suitable for an Italian poet composing his darkest opus...and you better believe he'd be drowning in the ultimate Italian table wine.

Jay Malinowski - There's a Light

13. CEE LO GREEN - The Lady Killer
     PAIRING - Sauternes

The summer of 2010 will long be remembered for the viral explosion of Cee Lo's breakup anthem Fuck You. With tens of millions of youtube views within a week, it was an atomic bomb of pop music that even the most hardened music snob couldnt help but hum along to. The ensuing record is probably his best work to date, offering plenty to the listener to remind that he aint no one trick pony. In particular Old Fashioned might just be the ultimate expression of the soul man in this young century.

Sauternes is a world of its own. A classic and just like Cee Lo's love, Its right on time. Its timeless. Sugary sweet but with a steely backbone, it is a perfect expression of a man's proper love of a woman.

Cee Lo Green - Old Fashioned

14. THE SLACKERS - The Great Rocksteady Swindle
     PAIRING - Vouvray

I've long given up the hope that the world might once again be blessed with a classic record the likes of Redlight. But after a decided lull, the past 2 records have been a clear return to form for the hardest working ska band in North America. Long gone are the circus themes of Peculiar, and once again they tread the comfortable waters that made records like the Question, Redlight and Wasted Days such classics.

The Chenin blanc of Vouvray are a mainstay throughout the Parisian bistros...and listening to the Slackers has the power to take you there.

The Slackers - Same Every Day (live)

15. THE NEW PORNOGRAPHERS - Together
     PAIRING - Red Burgundy

For me 2010 is the year I finally figured out how to like albums by bands that I had previously had no use for. All buzz bands for the past number of years, The Arcade Fire, My Chemical Romance and The New Pornographers were all artists I just couldnt seem to enjoy. Suddenly came their new records and I find myself wondering was it just me finally opening my ears or did these artists all turn some corner with their new material? In the case of the Arcade Fire & The Pornographers it was probably my own stubborn breed of music snobbery that lends itself far more affinitively to the Gaslight Anthems of the world. Though in the case of MCR its definitely a case of maturing and finally producing a record that brings forth the talent they've long supressed with goth-riddled schlock. In the end it really doesnt matter, cuz  if you arent listening to records for pure hedonistic bliss you belong somewhere else my friend.

I pair this record with red burgundy for the elusive sophistication that sets apart the finest pinot noir from the rest. This record spins that same tightrope between subtle greatness and irrelevance that makes an instant classic.

The New Pornographers - We End Up Together
The New Pornographers - Moves

16. AM TAXI - We Dont Stand A Chance
     PAIRINGS - Lots of beer.

In a year where bands like Against Me! and The Gaslight Anthem did little to impress the new hoards of fans of the beard-clad, Nu-Springsteen folk punk circuit, newcomers AM Taxi deliver a pretty solid debut in this vein. Plenty of beer drinking and broken hearted anthems for the working class punk crowd. Not of the class of Chuck Ragan, but in a year where even the Alkaline Trio couldnt get it quite right....that'll do pig...

Labatt 50. Specifically.

AM Taxi - Woodpecker

17. ANGELS & AIRWAVES - Love
     PAIRINGS - Champagne

I never thought I'd never see the day I would put an Angels & Airwaves record on a best list. First, as a Blink fan I resent this bands existence. Second, as a man, I resent appearing like a giant vagina. Alas much like the debut from the All American Rejects years back, this is has etched its way into my guilty pleasures exemption. While they've stumbled to find an identity in their past records, this one comes together with the epic cohesion of U2 records when they didnt suck (read Joshua Tree/Rattle & Hum). The result is like falling in love for the first time.

True love deserves champagne. Nuff said.

Angels & Airwaves - Shove

18. TOBACCO - Maniac Meat
     PAIRING - Priorato

For fans of RJD2 and Cut Chemist, whove grown tired of awaiting solid new material from either. Maniac Meat hits the long devoid spot in the cockles of our hearts for electronic, jazz infused hip hop beats without MC's to go ahead and ruin everything. Note the Beck cameos.

My favorite Spanish wine region is notably difficult to farm, but the rewards are some of the most delicious grenache known to man. I find it a perfect compliment to mining the rugged terrain of underground beats.

Tobacco - Stretch Your Face

19. LIL BROTHER - Left Back
     PAIRING - Super Tuscans

No fan of LB will argue that Left Back is their best work. That said, repeated listens unveil a score of tracks that hit hard with their famed atmosphere backing another legitimate lyrical onslaught.

In the spirit of never settling on your laurels, I'm pairing Lil Brother to the winemakers who pioneered the Super Tuscans & IGT when they werent content to rest upon the DOCG laurels of Chianti. When you continue to push, the results are greatness.

Lil Brother - Revenge

20. THE KINGS OF NUTHIN - Old Habits Die Hard
     PAIRINGS - Makers Mark Bourbon.

My biggest dissapointment as a concert promoter was my inability to overcome this bands legal issues and get them over the border for a Guelph show. Getting down to Boston to see them in their hometown is still on the life's top 10 to do list. They do nothing to change the formula here. Hard nosed rockabilly for the drunk and disorderly.

Whiskey.

Kings Of Nuthin - Rythym And Booze


THE BEST OF THE REST - Didnt make the cut, but still worthy of cellaring.

The Damned Things
The Roots
Alkaline Trio
Cancer Bats
Caribou
Crime In Stereo
Spoon
Vampire Weekend
Cypress Hill
LCD Soundsystem
Two Door Cinema Club
The Flatliners
The Bouncing Souls
The Scissor Sisters
The Chemical Brothers
Foxy Shazam
Broken Bells
Avenged Sevenfold
Arcade Fire
As I Lay Dying
My Chemical Romance
Nas and Damian Marley
The National
Atmosphere
J-Live
Ghostface Killah
Bad Religion
Titus Andronicus

RECORDS THAT SUCKED AS THEY CUT

Four Year Strong
MGMT
Gaslight Anthem
The Hold Steady
Morcheeba
MIA
Bedouin Soundclash
Weezer
The Bled
Kanye West
Tokyo Police Club
Underoath

Well....thats it for 2010. All is well as we end the year. United at the top of the table...delicious food in our bellies...may the next year be as good for us all!

The Gourmet Food & Wine Expo and The Perils of the LCBO General List

 

There is one inherant problem with success, which simply put, is success itself. In English football this can be seen in the meteoric rise of obscure clubs to the lofty heights of the Premier League, only to realize they have not the grounds nor the resources to compete, leading to the demoralizing crash of relegation. In trendy new charcuterie bars there lies the danger of selling your meats faster than you can cure them. In the world of wine it manifests in gaining the demand to earn a spot in the hallowed grounds of the LCBO general list, only to buckle under the strain of mass production that renders your new vintages into vinegar. Walking past the hoards filling an entire convention hall, merely queing for upwards of 3 hours just to gain entry to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, it was clear that we were seeing an event that grown a tad to big for its britches. The sight of thousands slowly staggering through the que was more like a scene from a zombie apocalypse than a trade show.

Once inside things didnt fare much better, for overcapacity seemd a term absent from the organizer's vocabulary. The shoulder to shoulder action was more akin to a WWF Battle Royal trapped in an MC Escher canvas. I half expected at any minute to turn a corner to find Randy Savage snappin into a SlimJim and throwing me over some unforseen turnbuckle. Though to be fair, this was just as likely latent fear from being tackled on camera at last years Expo by MTV correspondent Sheena, who was attempting to wrestle away my Das Boot.

Granted, there was some culinary delights through each swarm of thirsty travellers...venison shortribs, succulent lobster snacks, pulled pork sliders...but none of it seemed worth risking a Camel Clutch for your troubles. By the time the tribal drums began thumping, inciting gaggles of denim-clad cougars to imagine themselves as Shakira, the floor began to resemble the chaos of the carribean carnival depicted in Hunter Thompson's Rum Diary. Finally, we sought refuge in the cozy confines of the Alexander Keiths tent, enjoying dice games & their new Harvest Ale ( a remarkably interesting dark ale...a surprise from the brewery that single handedly bastardized the term India Pale Ale.). Between that and dollar doubles of Rickards Dark with Le Brin cheese chunks, we soon realized there was little we could do but drink our faces off. Not that there is anything wrong with that. Come to this event expecting the sloppy circus of an Oktoberfest and you'll do just fine. But for the more discerning alcoholic there was little solace inside the storm.

The problem however runs far deeper than the over-population in the South Hall at the Metro Convention Centre. The root of this grimey fungus, lies within the show's wine focus on listings from an afforementioned big for its britches animal. the LCBO's General List. Its hard to blame the vendors. Given the cost of the rental space for an event of this stature, it makes little economic sense to peddle in wines that run for limited releases. Even the epic portfolios the likes of Lifford are reduced to their most unworthy (yet widely available) wines.

While the large majority of Lifford's impressive catalog is filled with consignment & limited release bottlings, their spread at the Expo was, for obvious reasons, stacked with their more widely available offerings. We began with a pretty nice prosseco from Santa Margherita, whose better known for their solid, if unremarkable pinot grigio. That said, cheap, uninspriring, but safe is exactly why people flock to both varieties. Here is where mass production does little to damage a reputation in that there is little reputation to plunder. We were spoiled here to try the best wine of the night with a taste of the exceptional Cabernet from Cakebread. Big, round yet oozing with elegance, this is the archetypal Napa Cab, and every bit worth the slew of tickets a taste demanded. We finished at Lifford with a house that absolutely exemplifies the peril of garnering success and sales, Louis Jadot. Their general label Burgundy was fair enough in the world of affordable pinot noir, but I out and out refused to subject our group to the Beaujelais-Villages from Jadot. Simply put this wine has gone down hill in each successive vintage since it earned a spot on the Vintage Essentials roster. While the agent defended this slide by citing vintage problems, I countered by pointing out that Jadot's Cru Beauj offerings from the Chateau Jacques label have remained outstanding through this period, elevating the Gamay nearly into pinot calibre. He remained insistant that over production was not an issue and challenged me to try the Village releases from 2010. We agreed to disagree and left in appreciation of the rare opportunity to chat about Cru Beauj.

I was pleasantly surprised to see my favourite estate on the Beamsville Bench, Rosewood offering nearly their full catalog. They gained a sizable buzz with their award winning 2007 Pinot Noir and stand as a rare combination Winery & Meadery. We began with the 2008 Pinot, which showed significant decline from its '07 predecessor. That said 2007 was a standout vintage while 2008 was anything but. Combine the increased demand from their newly aquired buzz, a lousy vintage, and dealing with the appropriately named heartbreak grape, one can let this dissapointment slide without pause. From there the dissapointment was over. Their 2009 Semillon was even better than the 2008 vintage I had enjoyed so much, carried by a powerful minerality and absolutely bubbling over with melon, peach, lemongrass and gooseberries. Also a winner was the 2008 Natalie's Riesling, which both floral, approachable and bone dry, exemplifies Ontario's natural ability to produce world class Riesling. We finished off the impressive tasting with their Mead Royale, made from 100% estate honey. Syrupy sweet with every bit of the balancing acidity that define the classic dessert wines, this one is a keeper.

The perils of general list offerings was nowhere more obvious than our visit to the Wines Of Spain booth. We approached with a level of excitement given the Spanish commitment to quality. But here, absent of the limited release goldmines of Priorat and the heavy hitters like Muga, our choices were less spectacular. Having recently gorged on an offering from Haza, and being a longtime fan of the Portugese side of the region, we began with a Ribeiro Del Duero. Our boredom was palpable. Next, we ventured for a Grenache, long my favorite of the red grapes. It bordered on undrinkable. Finally we left our fate in the hands of the agent asking for his choice as their best in show wine. The Rioja WAS drinkable, but barely, recalling the confines of Jackson Triggs....or Welch's.

And here lies in the true catch 22 of the LCBO's general list. To provide wines that are mass produced enough to be readily available at all locations, requires a reduction in quality that taints the true hedonistic pleasure of wine. One needs only to see once reliable labels like Goats Do Roam and Wolf Blass to see the strain of maintaining that production. Take Masi's Campofiorin, the original RIPASSO, whose 2007 vintage, arguably the best for the style, fall flat on its face. Further wines like Fuzion, or Yellowtail, which remain as they began, overproduced bargain wines with little to offer the distinguished pallette. Yet its this very ability to be recognizable that is required by the general list in the first place. A friend recently asked me for a suggestion for a slightly sweet off dry white wine, noting he was at a small LCBO. By that very shopping location I was handcuffed at what I could suggest, offering the pedestrian Pirerre Sparr Gewurtztraminer. Passable, yes. Available, yes. But shouldnt we be able to do better?

The good news is you can. With just a little bit of effort and some regular visitations to large Vintages sections, one can quickly begin huilding a library of superior wines that they are familiar and comfortable with. Better yet you can learn that you dont have to break the bank. Worst case, there are some easy general list and Vintages Essentials that ARE decent and reliable. Try your luck with Perrin's Cote Du Rhone, Sogrape's Gazela & Matues Signature, Berringer's Stone Cellars Cab, Montalto's Pinot Grigio, Chateau Des Charmes 2007 Pinot Noir, and Sella & Mosca's Cannonau Di Sardigna. All reliable, affordable, and readily available wines that can help set your beginner's cellar apart from the general malaise of the general list.

As for the Expo...bring your toga's and have some fun.

A Horse Is a Course (Of Horse)

There is few things in life that compare to the exaltation of having a dish that completely blows your mind. People throw around the term "life-changing" far too liberally these days (cuz really Hot Yoga really only means shifting your US Weekly budget into the waiting arms of Lulu Lemon) but when you've had those rare meals that are the kind that inspire Allah to start offering out legions of virgins to his newly deceased flock, you know it. And nothing will be the same again.

While I've encountered these lofty plates a number of times in my lifelong pursuit of hedonistic overload, its no small feat that three times I've had this experience in the confines of Grant Van Gameren's The Black Hoof. I won't lie, I enjoyed this spot a whole lot more back in its infancy as an industry speakeasy packed with chefs, bar-jockeys and wine stewards. I suppose even then I knew the hoards of food hipsters would innevitably descend upon its glorious floors, oblivious to the simple pleasure of following a grueling dinner service with some foie gras and Labatt 50. Of course I cannot begrudge the success of their little no frills charcuterie pad, if for no other reason than the 3 times its meals have changed my life.

The first time was the discovery of Jamon Iberico. This is the Wagu of the cured pork universe, complete with prize-bred hogs with special diets and daily massage treatments. While this may seem frivolous nonsense to the layperson, talk to me after you've had a thin slice of iberico melt on your tongue (it literally does that...for serious). The 2nd time was glutonizing over their cow tongue on brioche. The epic tenderness of braised tongue was enough to ensure I would never really appreciate a corned beef sandwich ever again (or at least the unsmoked variety....cuz even tongue cant hold a candle to Schwartz's patrami).

But its the 3rd one that tops them all, and is in fact the inspiration to an entire oddessey, around which this article is based upon. It was a sleepy September Thursday whereupon, still soaked in the afterglow of a surreal weekend in New York City, I sunk my teeth into the loving arms of the most seductive mistress. The Raw Horse Sammy at the Black Hoof. Virtually a horse carpaccio on sliced baguette, with quail egg for yolking and a chili sauce to finish the sandwich. We paired it with a Tawse Cabernet Franc (which by the way is easily one of the top bottles of wine I have ever had from Niagara....truly world class) and from the first bite, I knew I had been launched into an entirely new chapter in my life. The horse was to become my obsession.

Turns out that horse can be a pretty quiet obsession. Almost from the dawn of civilzation the horse has enjoyed a man's best friend stature, bested only by the domestic dog. After all this celebrity I guess its only natural that very few kitchens, the world over, are graced with the loins of the cheval. Its a common menu piece in the Veneto, where its been an historical centerpiece of local cuisine for centuries. In Vino Italiano, Joe Bastianich describes a rustic Verona tavern serving up horse meat in three seperate menu items, in cuts and plates that are commonly seen with beef. However unlike the sedantary cow, the muscular horse contains alot less meat of the sort of divine tenderness sought after by the distinguished carnivore. As can be expected they are excellent pairing partners with the regional red wines Amarone and Ripasso. My mouth waters at the idea of a tenderloin, braised in beer & cocoa, decked out with a blueberry compote, being chase down with a velvety 2007 ripasso.

As I pushed on in my crusade du cheval, I began asking around the city to find my next step. I discover its not all that uncommon in area restaurants, especially those dedicated to passionate carnivores. In addition to the couple of cheval-centric dishes I've had at the Hoof, Chef Matt Beasley (who I strongly believe has star potential written all over him) also described to me a horse dish he used to cook at Globe Bistro. Yet the deeper I searched it became clear that there wasn't a butcher anywhere in Upper Canada carrying horse for the sonsumer market. To find this I had no choice but to turn to the last bastion of unapologetic carnivore celebration left on this continent of hyprocritical fashion-foodies. Every road to preparing horse in my home kitchen ran through Quebec.

Six hours of red/yellow/orange tree-lined highway and a pit-stop in Old Port Montreal later, I found myself in an Anjou food market staring at the counter of Chevaline Plus. Their selection was a game heavy playlist, challk full of pheasant, elk and even (perhaps troubling) pigeon. But I had eyes only for one, the butcher's namesake & specialty. The horse. After considerable discusssion I settled upon a healthy slab of Cheval Roti (in essence a horse tenderloin, complete with the butcher-string ties) and a Cheval Mignon (a cut equivalent to its bovine counterpart). Now barely past noon, northeast of Montreal, I had 9 hours to plan, purchase groceries for & prepare in Toronto for a dinner based around the chunks of cheval I had icing in a former beer cooler.

Oddly enough my inspiration came in the form of a Tim Horton's donut. Not to be mistaken with the typical Timmy's fare (their donuts have never been the same since the centralization of their bakeries in that Brantford Ontario factory....garbage I tell you), their special Pumpkin Spiced Donut was a pocket change revelation. The flavors smacked me into longing for the Thanksgiving dinner I never had the week before. Instantly the night's menu was set. Cheval Roti braised in beer & cinamon, Medium rare Cheval Mignon with sauteed mushrooms & carmalized onions and roast pumpkin with toasted raisins & cinamon. While my cellar is rich in berry reflectant ripasso's, the shift toward a more savory style lead me to the Grenache section, selecting a 2006 Gigondas by Laurus and the 2005 Les Mines from Priorat (the best bottle I've ever had for under $30 and while I once boasted an entire case, this was the last bottle of this wine no longer available in the area). The pumpkin scraps would also give birth to a delicious soup to pair with some Scwartz's smoked pastrami the following day. My audience for this dinner would include cooks from both Savoy & The Soho, as well as Sommali Pirate. A strange cast to conclude this strange journey.

The meal came off without a hitch. While the lean nature of the meat left me wishing I had braised the roti for at least another hour, the flavor was unmistakably captivating, especially when dipped in some close at hand deli mustard & horseradish. In contrast the mignon was grilled to perfection. Tender and dripping in juice it was the kind of bite that made this entire crusade worthwhile. Though I must admit, while we sat there, pouring down some dynamite wine over our feast and talking food, travel, and the suddenly inspiring Toronto Maple Leafs, I couldnt help but recognize that all of this still came short of living up to that first bite of Van Gameren's Raw Horse Sammy.

I guess thats why they call it life changing.

The Luis vs. The Lampard: The Elderflower Cocktail Explosion

Its no secret for anyone browsing cocktail menus from New York to Chicago to Vancouver that 2010 has been the year Elderflower went all Justin Bieber on the minds of the mixologist. Elderflower cordial (and in some cases its frizzy cousin Elderflower presse) has been popping up just about everywhere this summer. Back in August while working the Skyy Vodka Cocktails of TIFF launch, I took notice when the cordial featured prominently in the cocktails designed by The Martini Club for the festival. The Berry Baruchel (despite its gangly namesake) was by the far the best of the bunch.

It was in September however that I realized just how big things had gotten for the little cordial that could.

The season had just kicked off over in England on a new English Premier League campaign. I had spent the past several months rekindling an old flame with the seductive siren you may know as rum. And of course I was still had the sweet elderflower buzzing around my brain. It was a perfect storm that led to the creation of The Luis. Named after legendary football icon Luis Figo, I debut'd this rum cocktail on a pre kareoake deck party at my place and it was a smashing success (that is til my best mate proceeded to take the smashing a tad literally...but that will happen).

Proud as a poppa I strolled into work soon after to brag of my storied new concoction when I learned that completely independent of this creation, One's Chef De Cuisine had come up with his own Elderflower cocktail, ALSO named after one of his favorite footballers. And with all the grace of an elephant, The Luis vs. The Lampard was announced, along with the decided arrival of Elderflower cordial .

For those unfamiliar with the elderflower cordial, its basically simple syrup infused with the flowers of the elderberry. Its roots trace back to Victorian England and while generally widely available in Northwestern Europe, its use, availability and popularity is for the most part a new phenomenon this side of the pond. While commercially invisible here a few years ago, demand has domestic commercial production of elderflower cordial in full swing & its now hitting the shelves of shops such as Loblaws & Ikea (crazy Swedes). Aside from its direct use, I also see its impact further on the North American cocktail menu. While infusing spirits has been old hat for some time now it seems that the little Elderflower cordial has got the wheels turning and suddenly one cant help but notice infused syrups creeping up all over the place (ie. Lemongrass Syrup, which now made in house at One features in 2 of our fall cocktails).

Back to battle of elderflowered footballers it must be pointed out that at the best of times Chef & I were seemingly born to do battle. A Leeds man and a United man are eternal combatants and now armed with our proud new recipes the duel was inevitable. With the new fall cocktail menu being designed for this past week, the stage was set. I greased the wheel a tad by feedng his sous chefs delicious Luis' the night before the tasting. In the end however I gave the Lampard the green light (though only due to seasonal considerations......being that his infusion of lavender & rosemary sang "autumn" more than the summery splash of the Luis).

In the end 3 One mixologists & our chef all designed elderflower based cocktails for the new menu. We selected 2, kept 1 for next summer & retooled another with a more herbacious answer to its floral inception (this would be the Lemongrass Fizz featuring an enticing blend of lemongrass syrup, Zubrowka Bisongrass Vodka & champagne).

Ladies, gentlemen, the elderflower has entered the building.

Heres some recipes you can try at home

-The Berry Baruchel (from the 2010 Toronto International Film Festival Skyy Bar Guide)

1.5 oz Skyy vodka
0.25 oz Lemon Juice
0.33 oz Elderflower Cordial
2 oz. Blueberry juice.

Stir in a shaker over ice until cold. Pour into a martini glass and garnish with 2 tsp. of wild blueberries.

-The Luis

2,5 oz. Bacardi White Rum
3 oz. Soda
1 oz. Lime Juice
0.5 oz Elderflower Cordial

Pour over rocks in a collins glass and garnish with chopped zest of half of one lime.

-The Lampard

2.5 oz. Brokers Gin infused with lavender & rosemary
0.5 oz Elderflower cordial
3 oz. soda
1 oz. lemon juice

Pour over rocks in a collins glass and garnish with a rosemary sprig.

-The Pekoe Martini (from One's Fall 2010 Cocktail menu)

4 oz. of Ketel One Vodka infused with Black Tea & Elderflower cordial

Stir in a shaker full of ice until cold. Pour into a martini glass & garnish with an orange slice across the surface of the martini

Coronation Street

Seven games into the newest Barclays Premiership season and its hard not to announce the coronation of Chelsea in the defence of their league title. Todays London derby was a smashing affair from front to finale and despite the obvious skill put forth by the Gunners, the quality of the Blues was simply too much. Drogba continues to be the biggest beast in English football with a touch I imagine exists only in the bedroom of Kiera Knightly and a sense of occasion matched only by John F Kennedy. While Wenger's side pressed on throughout the second half with their unique and fluid attack, one couldnt help but sense that the Chelsea counter would respond, with an arrogant formation of leaving Anelka, Drogba and Malouda forward. On que, Alex's otherwordly strike from a free kick sliced the hearts of the Arsenal faithful (aided in no small part to a sly play on the wall by Malouda). A great game soaked in big moments and all the proof this guy needs that this season is Chelsea's to lose.

Wenger's laundry list of excuses aside, they continue to be incapable of rising above the likes of Chelsea and United. Nothing suggests that will change with this squad. While United continue to assert their place at the summit of club football, their inability to close on the road is evident of a side still in transition. Much like the side that went on to 3 straight English titles a few years back, Sir Alex's club is stacked with rising talent that will no doubt have its day, but my boyish fandomonium aside, I just dont see this being the year for the Red Devils. Spurs have been leaking oil since the start of the season, and commitments in Europe may prove once again too much for the boys at White Hart Lane. That said Gareth Bale's ascension to the ranks of world class fullback along with Harry's transfer heist of Rafael Van Der Vaart should keep them competetive in the top of table. Manchester City, mark my words, have finally arrived 2 years after the billions of dollars in Arab oil money was dumped into the Eastlands outfit. Their endless shopping spree is finally giving fruit as the assembled stars finally begin to gel as a team. This in spite of a manager in Mancini that I believe is fully incapable of steering a side of this quality to the promised land. In spite of their boss, the likes of Tevez, Johnson et al will make their mark & here at the international break, they stand behind only the Chelsea juggernaut in the infant title race.

Which leaves my favorite story of this new season, the nightmarish turn in fortunes of Liverpool FC. Today's famous home loss to Premier League virgins, Blackpool leaves the legendary Merseyside outfit in the relegation zone with only 1 win in 7 games. The collapse of arguably England's greatest team has a place alongside Tiger Woods, OJ Simpson & Julius Ceasar. With fan revolts taking to the streets in protest to the ownersip debacle, Carling Cup extinction to the hands of 2nd division zero's from Northampton, and their worst start to a campaign in the modern era, things continue to spiral toward depths that would make Ahab's whale cringe. At this rate its not at all unreasonable to suspect the like of Gerrard & Torres could be gone by Christmas. Its the kind of turn in fortune that only fans of Leeds United can truly fathom, and that disaster has taken over a decade to recover from. My support of Man U is rivaled only by the vitriol of my loathing of Liverpool FC, yet even I cant help but be stunned by this epic fail at Anfield. Its as if I awoke to a naked Zoey Deschannel asleep on my chest while my flatmate John Lennon was busy preparing roast duck & porkbelly Eggs Benedict in the kitchen (which by the way overlooked the rugged hills of my Priorat wine estate). Yet somehow my dream come true tastes a bit stale. Rivalries of the tallest order survive not on the utter defeat of your enemies, rather the constant and ethereal struggle against them. While the suffering of Anfield scum arrived in my cellar with all the exhuberant gusto of an '82 Margeaux, I fear now the bottle may turn out to be the victim of corkage.

Fans of food & wine content rest assured there is more to come as I put the finishing touches on "A Horse is a Course (Of Horse)" and "Tasting Notes: Rhone Valley".

Glory Glory Man United!

Tasting Notes 01 - Alsace/Loire

For white wine drinkers, there are few better places to investigate than these 2 regions in northern France. While the Rieslings and Gewurtztraminers of the Alsace are well known even to the wine novice, the Loire is an often unsung hero on this side of the pond.

Ranging from crisp dry whites from Atlantic coast to the famed Central Vinyards which produce the world standard in Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume), there is staggering diversity in both grapes and styles produced in the Loire. In addition to the great juice produced here, the Loire also stands as one of the great value regions in all of France with an endless list of great bottles available for under $20.

Sandwiched in between the coast and the Central Vinyards is my favorite Loire region, Touraine. There are 3 reasons why everyone should know Touraine. First, the understated elegance of Touraine Cabernet Franc. While Parisian bistros are abound with these light reds, the wines of Chinon & Bourgueil are hardly known on New World soils. Pity, as most of these highly impressive wines are available for under $15 a bottle. Secondly this region is famed as the home of Chenin Blanc, perhaps my favorite (and by light years the most versatile) white wine grape in the entire world. Vouvray stands as the pinnacle of what can be done with Chenin with a range of labels from dry, yet fruit driven palette cleansers, to honeysuckle desserts in a bottle, incredibly ALL from the same grape. Finally, while neighboring appelations like Sancerre and Pouilly Fume offer high end Sauvignon Blancs with prestine balance, the budget minded Sauv drinker may find the Sauvignon de Touraine's the greatest bargain since the internet started handing out free music.

The wines below were tasted in George Brown College's Wines I class on Alsace & The Loire. In addition to the 8 tasted in class I have included a few others from my own personal cellar that are also from the region. I wont bother with 100 point rating systems or anything of that self-important ilk. Merely suggestions of try, buy or pass.

1. Chateau De L'Ecochere Muscadet Sur Lie 2008
    France - Loire - VINTAGES 169649 - $13.95

A shy nose does little justice to this classic example of seafood friendly muscadet. Once in the mouth there is a nice balance of melon against crisp citrus notes held up by a backbone of significant minerality. The medium bodyweight gives it some muscle that along with the vibrant acidity cries out oily deep fried oysters, calamari or even whitefish fried in bacon fat. Another noteworthy facet is its short finish, which alongside the acidity makes it the definitive aperatif wine. At this price you just cant lose with this simple yet effective number, though dont go cellaring this guy. Theres nothing here that suggests that this wine is going anywhere better with age, so get it in ya right off of the shelf.

Rating: Buy. (note: not a tonne left in the city other than at Broadview & Danforth)

2. Domaine De Saint-Pierre Sancerre 2008
    France - Loire - VINTAGES 170258 - $24.95

An expressive nose leads the way to an abundance of aromas that followthrough upon tasting. From typical Sauvignon Blanc flavors like grass & gooseberry to some uncommon elements such as chamomile, zest of grapefruit, white pepper and melon with an elegant floral tone throughout. Bordering on extra dry this guy has that piquant acidity that just drives the mouth for seafood. Many of the same dishes mentioned before would apply here though the grassy herbaciousness begs for the hefty use of herbs in any dish you try. panfried pickerel with dill would be my pick but have fun with this one. Also a natural pair for herb-coated goat cheeses. The only downside is the price, as you are most definitely paying to have SANCERRE on the label. Its most definitely worth the 25 bucks, but not everyone has that in their everyday wine budget. Save this one for special ocasions or perhaps try wine #9 as an appropriate and budget minded substitute.


Rating: Try (unless of course you can afford it...then BUY)

3. Rene Mure Vorbourg Close St. Landelin Riesling 2005
    France - Alsace - VINTAGES 75929 - $29.00

This guy drinks like a velvet waterslide descending the lush depths of honeysuckle, peach and apricot flavors with subtle notes of petrol and acidity to structure you descent. Its the very definition of what seperates even the most highly touted new world rieslings from their Alsacian counterparts in that at 5 years old this wine still is young in its evolution. To be honest this one is probably not worth drinking now but has all the signs of a wine that will continue to grow in the bottle for 5 to 10 years. Pair this one next to a pork roast with a honey reduction and David Copperfield will seem like a street hussler hiding the marble under 3 coconut shells in a dark London alley.

Rating: Try (though sit on it, LCBO never carries ageable wines that are entering their prime. Buy now and sit on it for 3 years....then thank me)

4. Robert Klingenfus Pinot Gris 2008
    France - Alsace - VINTAGES 67157

While Pinot Grigio has become the white zin of the old world (and perhaps undeservedly given some of the more stellar examples) the Alsacian versions on this grape, pinot gris have often been overlooked despite their clearcut advantages in depth and complexity. Its here that the use of oak is done just right, adding a creamy mouthfeel without imparting the vanilla flavor components. This bottle is a pristine example with an uncannily creamy weight in the mouth, while the wine is allowed to express itself unhindered with layers of peach, apple and pear with an underlined peppery nuttyness that provides just the right balance. Before the sweltering June heatwaves this was by far my favorite white wine under $20. There is very little left in the city and with fall wrapping itself around the city I am not about to draw you a map to this guy only to have less for me. That said if you find it, buy it. And try it alongside either duck or butter chicken. Win.

Rating: Buy.

5. Domaine Laurent Malibeau Bourgueil 2008
    France - Loire - VINTAGES 69666 - $13.95

A picture perfect example of Cabernet Franc from the Loire with a light body filled with raspberry, cherry, red liquorice and green herbs galore. This offering also carries a light hint of smoke and tobacco that presents a nice option for even more food pairings. This guy is a natural for charcuterie platters, carpaccios, stewed vegetables or even a simple roast beef sandwich.

Rating: Buy

6. Couly-Dutheil La Coulee Automnale Chinon 2007
    France - Loire - VINTAGES 640771 - $15.95

There is little better way to get to know a grape than to compare it to other takes on that same grape. Here we have a strikingly different Cab Franc where the raspberry & cherry are still present, yet the green leaf and vegetal components come out for the big dance. This one is all about bell peppers & green leafy herbs. In some ways the lack of fruit almost takes something away from this one as it cant help but feel out of balance. It may well be a case that this one from 2007 is losing its legs (fruit is often the first thing to go on a fading wine) in contrast from the 2008 tasted before it. Regardless this type of vegetal heavy wine leans itself well to stewed vegetable dishes and I think would make a dreamlike partner with a horse carpaccio (my newest obsession and topic of a future post here on this blog).

Rating: Try.

7. Pierre Sparr Gewurtztraminer 2008
    France - Alsace - LCBO 373373 - $16.60

I couldnt help but chuckle as this general list monster appeared on our tasting lineup. Now before my inner snob explodes I will say this. I have drank alot of this wine. ALOT of people seem to like this wine. As far as gews go, its a prototypical and not unpleasant blast of lychee & assorted sweet fruit with tonnes of peppery contrast and a rather enticing & lengthy finish. Truly its a perfect wine for a dinner party as its appeal is pretty wideranging and its pairs well with a broad range of food. Next time you're having friends over for Chinese takeout and Glee pop a few of these and you'll probably be a hero. All that said, having tasted the potential of this grape from so many better, more refined & more focused producers, I just cant get excited about this wine anymore. Its like Rihanna. Throw on her new disc at a party and just about everyone will start dancing their ass off. Yet I'm the guy at the party who'll take his 4 closest friends to a quiet room downstairs, break out the jambox and groove out to Otis Redding. Please and Thank you.

Rating: Try (Cuz I dont have it in my heart to say buy...but for most it probably is)

8. Domaine Les Grande Vignes Bonnezeaux Le Malabe 2005
    France - Loire - VINTAGES 83519 - $65.00

You truly haven't lived until you've tasted the immaculate collaboration between deep sweetness & zippy acidity the likes of which have made Sauternes the worlds most sought after dessert wine. While we here in Ontario love to sing the praises of our Niagra icewines, by their very nature they lake that acidity which produces such luxerious harmony. Personally I feel Niagra's late harvest offerings are a far greater example of the Niagra portfolio and would really put us on the world map, but alas I am not responsible for the branding of Niagra wine so I digress. Here with this wine we see the unmatched potential of the supergrape Chenin Blanc, presented here a world apart from Chenin used to make tongue-wagging Vouvray. Quince, honey, apple caramel and a stoney minerality dance together like a Phillipino prison re-enacting Michael Jackson's "Thriller". Its a dessert wine of the finest calibre and was truly the crown jewel of this tasting. While seemingly cost prohibitive, remind yourself that this is a full bottle, not the typical half bottle. And think, what did you pay for that last half bottle of icewine? This outworldly tasty and unique wine experience is worth every cent and frankly is a bargain. HIT THAT.

Rating: BUY.

9. Buisse Couvee Prestige Sauvignon Touraine 2009
    Fance - Loire - VINTAGES 169794 - $11.95

Fans of Sancerre who cant really afford to keep it in their wine budget, pay close attention. One of the cheapest wines available in Vintages, this fantastic bargain wine is grown directly neighboring the famed vinyards of Sancerre. Yet without the international hype machine, the wines here sell on value and this is a terrific example. gooseberry, grass, guava & green apple dance around this light crisp yet fiesty number in a way that makes both flexible as either an aperatif or a food partner. Everything that makes Sancerre and Pouilly Fume so esteemed minus the robbery at the teller. Try this with a mustard glazed black cod with a lemon reduction and a side of steamed mussels. Game. Blouses.

Rating: BUY.

So here at last is the end of this little journey through northern French wine country. It was a pretty good crop with very little dissapointment. Though really thats simply reflective of the region. There's a lot of great things coming from here. Not to say the ratio is always this good, because its not. But it is close.

Let me know your thoughts on these wines or others from this region you've tried recently.

The Red Devil Manifesto

As your bartender in hell, the purpose of The Red Devil is simply as an overall guide to the hedonistic joy of food, wine, cocktails, music and the ocasional gushing over the finest football team in the world. My career & lifestyle afford me some fantastic insights into these tasty realms & I feel it would be truly wasteful to hoard these experiences for my own savagely unreliable memory banks. Sadly for you the reader I am incapable of boring, literal, step by step accounts, so you may have to swim the seas of random, self indulgent, and semi-coherant babble that encapsulates my writing style. Apologies. At the end of the day there is an exciting world of deliciousness out there that I stumble through on a daily basis. Its my sincere wish to share some of that with you, so that you may paint your own world with some of the fantastic crap that fills my own personal outhouse. I am afterall, your bartender in hell.

One of the regular postings you will read will be tasting notes from the various wine tastings I attend both in my capacity as teaching assistant for the Wines I class at George Brown College and in my own education as an aspiring sommelier. The world of wine can be an intimidating place for the casual consumer and I hope that these articles will simplify and inspire your future wine purchases at both the LCBO and from consignment purchases through restaurant wine lists.

Another feature will be cocktail and food recipes. As a mixologist at ONE, I have created some 30 cocktails over the years for our menus, as well as competed in several mixology competitions. I am also a bit of a dinner party whore, thus you can expect to read about my explorations in new ideas for tasty adventures. Also my own personal experiments in home gardening, pickling and basic charcuterie will hopefully if nothing else provide you an insight of what NOT to do. Lastly, ingredients are of paramount importance in anything food and drink. I am fortunate enough to know some of the best places in town for a wide array of gear & spreading the word on where to look for your own mis en place is why I do this.

The blog will also feature the ocasional gonzo journalistic journey through the various concerts, festivals, restaurants & sporting events that color my journey through food & wine. Though self indulgent on the surface, the presence of these pieces has 2 important functions. For you the reader, I hope they will open up your eyes to the incredible world of unique liesure that exists outside of the Mirvish catalog. We are surrounded by a world of splendor that not enough folks know even exists. From little known dive bars to music & arts festivals to restaurants, I want to share that with you. Second, as an aspiring journo, its all about both practice & portfolio.

Finally, I would warn the regular reader that the first few months may include some older material. I have been accumulating material for this long before I actually began the physical site, so the first little bit may go back & forth between currant posts (such as notes on new LCBO releases & such) and older ones that I have written over the past several months (such as my review of the Lifford Pinot Noir Showcase). I apologize for this but there really is nothing to be done. What I can promise is a more chronological order will emerge in a short time.

Before I leave you to start assembling the first few actual posts for the site, let me lastly say that your participation is both encouraged and important. I am but one asshole in an ocean of buttmuscle. Some feedback from the cheeks is gonna make the whole moneymaker shake the way it should. So dont be shy. Comment. Question. Share the articles you like. Crap on the ones you dont. The Red Devil is open for business.