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Tuesday, January 22, 2013

The Brady Brunch (Or Ray Lewis Will Eat You For Breakfast)

I essentially have 2 great loves on a Sunday. Watching Tom Brady play football, and brunch. There is a shared excellence that these two seemingly unrelated sources of inspiration share that is undeniable to the well trained eye.

There is a reason that going into last weekend's AFC Championship game, Brady was 67-0 when leading at the half. There is a reason he is a 3 time Super Bowl Champion and passed Montana's record of playoff wins. Its a total commitment to the moment. How easy would it be for Mr. GQ, husband of Brazilian super-model, to coast through life, enjoying the fruits of his talents. Instead the man goes into every season, every game, every practice, demanding nothing short of perfection. Satisfaction is only as lasting as the last snap.

Brunch is a similar beast. Lets call a spade a spade. Merging tasty breakfast and hearty lunch, complete with booze-fueled afternoon bliss would be alot like making babies with Giselle. What sets apart the Golden Griddles from The Black Hoof's, and what seperates the Tom Brady's from the Mark "Butt Fumble" Sanchez's, is that glitter alone does not make gold. Gold is forged, with constant commitment and attention to detail. With equal parts purpose and poise, as well as unquenched thirst to be better.

Championships are no ones birthright. Sometimes the most physical defence in the history of the game, lead by the man-beast that is Ray Lewis will pound you into laying the biggest egg since a Brontosaurus stared down a falling asteroid down the Yucatan.

Fortunately, for the guests at One Restaurant on a weekend afternoon, there are no Dinosaurs, asteroids, or first ballot hall of fame Linebackers in search of their destiny to get in the way of their birthright. The most fantastic brunch since 'Nam.  Merely the incredible cuisine of Chef Matt Beasley, and a barman with attention to the moment.

COURSE ONE

Raspberry Point Oysters and 13th Street Below Zero



It was Kermit Lynch who suggested to me, quite counter-intuitively, that Sauternes made for the most incredible pairing with oysters that one could imagine. Ever since, I've been unleashing Canada's best answer to Sauternes, Icewine blended with Old Vines Riesling, to any guest who orders our oysters. The response has been staggering.

COURSE TWO

Lobster Spoons and The Bloodiest Ceasar



Eat your heart out dim sum spoon. You ain't seen anything like lobster poached in butter and vermouth paired with the Ceasar of Jess Koncz. It's as though a magical boozy cocktail sauce was playing placenta to the birth of Christ. You think I'm exaggerating....

COURSE THREE

Duck Eggs Benedict and The Avacado Margarita



Finesse is not a word associated with this dish. Its richness in its most celebratd form. Like Diddy. Or Donald Trump. We leave the finesse in this round to the cocktail, which strkes an obscene balance between its silky avacado side and its bone-tingling counterparts in lemonade and Tromba tequila.

COURSE FOUR

The Ultimate Burger and Caravan Cabernet



USDA prime beef and Cab. No one is reiventing the wheel here. But whats not broke is not in need of fixing. The fixings are pork belly, fried green tomato, Big Mac sauce and Darioush's second label Cabernet, truly the best value for dollar Cabernet in the Napa Valley. It's Brady to Moss (minus the stupid Eli Manning 2 minute drill that may or may not have lead me to go for a teary walk alone on a beach in Boca Chica DR back in Feb 2008).

COURSE FIVE

Fritters and The Orange County Manhatthan



Deep fried apples, in tribute to the donut. Homer Simpson suddenly stopped chasing his airborne pigroast. Add the single best cocktail I can put in your glass...well suddenly it all makes sense.

Its the type of meal that makes you want to go drop a few thousand dollars in Tiffany's. Fact. I've seen it. Or at the very least make a fallen warrior rise up, dust himself off from the disgrace of defeat, and get ready for that next battle. The Harbaugh Bowl might be a great day, but the Brady Brunch is who we are.




Monday, January 14, 2013

The Sommeliers Guide to the Best Records of 2012

Another year has come in the land of the Red Devil. This past was a particularly special one. There was an energy to it. Something special at every corner. The great untapped potential of the universe seemed to open like a flower before my very own busy bee. Maybe he was one of those zombie bees before, maybe he just didn't come across any orchids. Whose to say? But for at least this spin around the sun, sweet nectar baby.

Not missing a step, the soundtrack followed form, sockhopping (and songpopping) the shit outta this Social. So many killer records. So much so that truly great records from artists like Bruce Springsteen, Action Bronson, Brother Ali, Lamb of God, Cat Power, The Muse and Dispatch aren't even going to crack the list (which I upped to 21...cuz I can...no big deal).

This years pairings will be with my favourite cocktails. While the Great Hipster Cocktail Explosion that swallowed West Toronto from King St. to College St. this year, might be inspiring for some, I sort of rally against such massively self-congratulatory trends by instinct. Instead my rebirth in love with the cocktail stems from spending an afternoon learning from Stan Vadrna back in April. Fifteen years behind a bar was re-ignited by this singularly inspiring afternoon workshop, and was really the launching point for the most transformative year in my life. Heavy gear. The cocktail saved my soul.

Note that I never include proportions. I feel strongly that the bar, like the kitchen and the canvas, are forms of expression. Paint by numbers is for kids, but if you want to truly become an artist, find YOUR balance. Play. Paint in the glass. I have mastered these cocktails to my satisfaction (and more often than not, that of my guests), but by doing just that. I want the same for you and yours. 

So that brings us to the 3rd edition of one man's quest in celebrating outstanding vintages.



 1. Kid Koala's 12-Bit Blues
     Pairing: The wines of 13th Street

One has to merely check out my December piece on this record (Click here) to know that there could never be another record in this year's top spot. And I know, this isn't a cocktail. I make the rules, yes? In any event I could not say it better than I already have. The best record of 2012, for your consideration.

Kid Koala - 4-Bit Blues



2. The Alabama Shakes - Boys and Girls
    Pairing: The Manhatthan

This record has really been the soundtrack to the entire year. Bursting out of the annual SXSW hype machine, this was from very early in the year, the leading candidate. The lady absolutely slays every note in a collection of tracks that ooze southern charm. By the time I finally saw them live in the fall, this record had woven its way into my life the way certain records always do. It would be forever associated with a place and time. We don't get those back, but we always have their soundtrack.

The Manhatthan has long been my drink of choice. Only fitting then that 2012 also introduced me to my alltime favourite version. From Shonna Olendy, formerly of The Keg, & Michael's on Simcoe (and presently on mixology hiatus in pursuit of living the dream), comes the most excellent expression of the Mannhathan I have ever enjoyed. Maker's Mark, Grand Marnier, Antica Formula Vermouth, Orange Bitters and Orange zest. You'll never be the same.

The Alabama Shakes - You Ain't Alone



3. Action Bronson - Blue Chips
    Pairing: The Bloody Ceasar

With this mixtape (and 2011's Dr. Lecter) former Chef de Cuisine Action Bronson turned the hip hop world on its head. Curious as restaurants across the continent are switching to hip hop in their dining rooms, along comes Bronson to tie this new marriage together in the most literal sense. Those still talking about his similarities to Ghostface have their glass half empty (and those wanking on Kendrick Lamar & A$AP Rocky never had a glass), but those in the know have been jamming off his hookers-meets-Haut-Brion style of wordplay since the day this record dropped.

Now of course, EVERY Canadian barman makes the best Ceasar. Not unlike in Japan, where every chef's sushi is of course, the best there is. But unlike these guys on either side of me, I'm right. Kettle One Vodka (infuse with some Harbeneros fo some kick), Celery Salt, Celery Bitters, Black Pepper, Shaved Horseradish, Shaved Lime zest, Mott's Clamato Juice, Worchestershire, and Jungle Heat Scorpion Sting. I love adding some pickled vege, though after a recent visit to Rock Lobster on Ossington, I may be adding lobster tails to my masterpiece. Boss.

Action Bronson - Tan Leather



4. The Typical Cats - 3
    Pairing: The Gringo Paloma

So long awaited was this 3rd installment from Chicago's best kept secret, I hopped a plane for Chi City to see the hometown CD Release party live in person. The expectations were as lofty as North Korean rockets launched by their newest Supreme Leader (Sexiest Man Alive according to The Onion and the Daily Communist). And like them commy rockets, the trio delivered. Each MC on form , providing their unique rhymestyles to the blend, but its truly Denizen Kane who emerges as The Poet, and one of hip hops most extreme talents.

My love of tequila and grapefruit come together like a Toni Valencia cross to a Van Persie volley into the back of the net down Stretford. There is no point where I have had enough of these. Never will be. Tromba Blanco, Grapefruit Juice, Grand Marnier, Grapefruit Bitters, Grapefruit zest. Sexy and simple. The fratboys be getting excited.

The Typical Cats - Denizen Walks Away



5. Ceremony - Zoo
    Pairing: The Bloody Cuban

This was the crossover album for Rohnert Park's answer to punk rock revival. Having established a loyal following with 2 records of their Lemmy rocks the garage brand of hardcore, they shoot for the wider audience on this one and defy the odds in creating a more user friendly sound, without alienating their fanbase. As for the live experience they held their own opening before thousands in New York City for The Refused reunion tour. But they shine in the dive bar. Reckless abandon and flying bodies. Raw shit. Fully incredible.

Thus cocktail is a brand new one, inspired by my love of rum, using up ends, and the onset of Blood Orange season. Havana Club 7, 1 whole Blood orange, Squeezed into glass, zest kept for garnish.. Thats it. Absolutely perfect.

Ceremony - Brace Yourself



6. Frank Ocean - Channel Orange
    Pairing: Faux Mimosa

While everyone and their mother was busy vibing on this instant classic R&B jam, I was wondering for months why everyone was suddenly so into Billy Ocean. I'm an idiot, by the time I realized this and got onboard I sincerely wished I had that last 6 months back. SOOOOO sick.

This one was born out of my love of sitting in the sun on July afternoons (and my penchant for tasty brunches). Bored of the same old mimosa. Flip the shit on its head. Gazela Vinho Verde (which IS lightly spritzed) and San Palegrino Blood Orange. Your welcome.

Frank Ocean - Pink Matter



7. Django Django - Django Django
    Pairing: Lamb Chop

Apolgies to Tarentino but his Django was about 45 minutes too long. This ones just right. Following in the vein of the new breed alt rockers obsessed with the synth sounds of the 1980's, these guys deliver the requisite hook and charm to pull it off. Smart and fun. This record is the sleeper of the vintage.

The Lamb Chop is a self styled digestif (though works just as well as a shooter). The name is in tribute to pet name between a father and his daughter. The cocktail is one of considerable character, and is wholly befitting of its namesake. Lavender Infused Bombay Sapphire, Domaine Canton Ginger Liquer, White Vermouth, and Lemon zest.

Django Django - Life's a Beach



8. Blu & Exile - Give Me My Flowers While I Can Still Smell Them
    Pairing: Kentucky Bluegrass

Its not a summer jam if it ain't Blu. Man has exclusive rights to my jam box on a summer day. Despite exploring some edgier sounds on some recent solo work, Exile returns the focus to the Soul vibe. As always, Il Blu is the Soul Provider.

This was my first award winning cocktail, having earned my face a place on a bottle of Maker's Mark back in 2010. Maker's Mark, Blueberry Syrup, fresh Basil, honey, lemon juice, grilled orange slices for garnish, crushed ice. Alternatively puree the Blueberry and Basil and remove the need for the crushed ice.

Blu & Exile - Ease Your Mind



9. M Ward - A Wasteland Companion
    Pairing: Aperol Spritz

After years of listening to M Ward I am convinced at any given time, you can never be more bummed out than this guy. Someone give the man a hug. Not that this record lacks a toe-tapping side. I Get Ideas, & Primative Girl betrays a sneaky confidence between his sad-sack exterior. But truly he is at his best with the most desperately heartbroken numbers. Crawl After You is about as endearing a song as I've ever known.

Pairing something so downbeat with something as uplifting as the Aperol Spritz seems absurd...but you're talking to a guy who pairs oysters with Sauternes. Fight the war, fuck the norm. Some add soda but some are alcoholics. This ones for the latter. Aperol, Nino Franco Prossecco, Orange and Grapefruit Bitters.

M Ward - Crawl After You



10.. Gary Clark Jr. - Black & Blu
      Pairing: Pimm's Cup

Perhaps the best thing about the world finally catching on to The Black Keys the past few years, is that now a new generation of blues rock is bubbling to the fore. This guy you need to know. Just slays in all the right ways.

The Pimm's Cup is that most noble of UK exports. Celebrate 150 years of the London tube, The queen's Jubilee, or the Olympics (not a bad year across the pond) with this adaptation. Chambord Vodka, Pimm's, Lemon Juice, Sprite, Lemon & Lime zest, cucumbers and strawberries.

Gary Clark Jr. - Bright Lights



11. The Heavy - The Glorious Dead
      Pairing: Mulled Cider

If The Black Keys made sweet love to the more obscure UK outfit, The Broken Keys, you would have The Heavy, and their glorious new record. Inescapably fun, this record is built for start to finish performance. Get into it.

My mulled cider recipe has been warming up the winter for several years now. Getting home from a long day skiing down Blue deserves this kind of finishing touch. Baccardi Oakheart Spiced Rum, Goldschlagger, hot Apple Cider, cinamon stick.Game over.

The Heavy - What Makes a Good Man



12. I Self Devine - The Sound of Low Class Amerika
      Pairing: The General Lee

Rugged and raw, I Self Devine has arrived as another gem from the Rhymesayers family. This thing is yet another testament to Golden Era hip hop ressurecting before our very eyes. And while Nas may have let slip on his new record, you can count on the generation raised on Illmatic to carry the torch.

I love me a bourbon sour. Nothing makes bbq like hot sun and a sour. Mine is a makeover that tips its hat to the greatest of Southern symbols, The Dukes of Hazzard and their chariot of fire. Maker's Mark, Southern Comfort, egg white, Rhubina Syrup, Lemon Juice, Grapefruit Bitters. SHAKE!

I Self Devine - Hold On



13. Jack White - Blunderbuss
      Pairing: The Camper

Michigan's answer to Damon Albarn can be counted on to stay relevant and does so here, capturing the sound of the day (Blues rock overdose much?) with a sincere integrity. Catch, quirky, its oh so Jack White.

The Camper is as simple as a White Stripes chord progression. Grapefruit Juice and Campari. Low alcohol and quenching acidity drives this as a flavorful summer slammer. Cant stop. Wont stop.

Jack White - Trash Tongue Talker



14. Jimmy Cliff - Rebirth
      Pairing: The Mint Julep

This could have been ugly. A long absense from studio recording can be a taxing journey on the elder statesmen of music (read David Bowie, The Rolling Stones, Toots & The Maytals). But Tim Armstrong proved to have a deft touch in bringing to life all that made Jimmy Cliff one of THE names in Jamaican music.

The Mint Julep is a singular tribute to the noble status of the classic cocktail. I'll leave my well-tattoo'd counterparts to barrel age their cocktails so they can be the featured in the next GridTO feature. Me, I'm just gonna stick with what works. Which in this case is Maker's Mark 46, Lime Juice and Fresah Mint. Feel free to play with some syrups to achieve your ideal blend.

Jimmy Cliff - One More



15. The Lumineers - The Lumineers
      Pairing: The Avacado Margarita

Not my fault. That is all.

As for the cocktail, this one was a patio favourite this past summer at One. Tromba Blanco, Agave Nectar, Avacado Lemonade, shaved Lime zest. Crisp and creamy at the same time. Its a mystery, wrapped inside an enigma, stolen Inception style from the dreams of M Night Shyamalan. As is the reason this record is ever played during my extremely manly day to day existence.

The Lumineers - Stubborn Love



16. Plan B - Ill Manors
      Pairing: Irish Coffee

Having returned from his self-styled soul man outing that made Strickland Banks the most dynamic record of 2010, loud mouth Ben Drew gets back to his roots. Grimey UK hip hop. This one dives deep into the perilous state of the Youth Culture in the UK. Without pointing fingers, but rather displaying a deft understanding of the socio political powers that undermine Britain's youth, this is equal parts anthem and condemnation. And its hauntingly beautiful.

One feels a carbomb is more Ben Drew than a coffee. But for me, my weekly dose of UK Culture comes from sucking these down in front of Sky Sports and weekend footy. Jameson and Black Coffee. Goal!

Plan B - Ill Manors



17. Titus Andronicus - Local Business
      Pairing: Maple Mojito

Another instant classic from this outfit not afraid of being themselves amidst the ironically conformist world of punk rock. Smart, fun, clever and cool. Its a rare breed but they have now proven their last gem was no fluke.

Also not afraid of doing things different, this became my summer thing. I like mojitos. And what is more Canadian than Maple Syrup? Somewhere in Quebec, Martin Picard just smiled. As will you blending Bacardi 8 Year, Maple Syrup, Mint, Lime, Lime Juice and Soda.

Titus Andronicus - In a Big City



18. Murs & 9th Wonder - The Final Adventure
      Pairing: The Oxley Martini

Not the first time a rapper has claimed to putting out a final record, but there is something to the integrity of these 2 hip hop heavyweights that suggests the Final Adventure will be a farewell for the dynamic duo. A fitting conclusion then, delivering the expected dose of awesome that this collaboration has come to define over the past decade.

Proof that stellar ingredients, left to sing on their own, will do just that. Oxley is a unique and fantastic small batch gin that is truly heads and shoulders above its peers. Oxley Gin, Grapefruit Bitters and Grapefruit zest. Bumpin.

Murs and 9th Wonder - Get Together



19. Cloud Nothings - Attack On Memory
      Pairing: The French Quarter

The critical darling of the Indie Rock scene this is every bit worth the praise. As well crafted a rock album as I've seen in years. Alluring, aggressive and daring. Would love to catch this live.

My entry into this years Grey Goose Pour Masters. A twist on the French 75, this one captures the spirit of the drink, while standing on its own. If you're going to switch on a classic, be sure everything has its purpose. Grey Goose Citron, Champagne, Lemon Juice, and an Orange wheel, soaked in Hennessey VSOP.

Cloud Nothings - Wasted Days



20. DZ Deathrays - Bloodstreams
      Pairing: Negroni

Such a hip debut from these kids. Famed roadie/protester/cultural icon Adam Wordsworth Nobody put me onto this band during festival season here in Toronto. It was months later the record came out. Nobody knows what he's talking about.

If I had a buck for every barrel-aged Negroni on a Toronto cocktail list this year, The Red Devil Wine bar would be opening next month. Assuming I don't know more than well paid master distillers, I simply buy good gear and get into the glass. Bombay Sapphire Gin, Antica Formula Vermouth, Campari & Sliced orange. You fancy, huh?

DZ Deathrays - Cops Capacity



21. Wu Block - Wu Block
      Pairing: Pear Lychee Martini

Ghostface. That is all.

Another One classic. Grey Goose Pear, Soho Liquer, Lime Juice, and fresh lyuhee fruit. Candy.

Wu Block - Been Robbed

Monday, January 7, 2013

Rum Ham and Wildcard Weekend



It is an inescapable fact that men have an unquenchable fascination with large chunks of meat. This is not meant as some social commentary rather a simple empiricle statement of fact. Its the driving force behind such uniquely manly endeavours such as big game hunting, deep sea fishing, bear hugs, T-bone steaks, Mideval Times & occasionally a go round of a Stranger (define THAT and stay fashionable).

Take for your consideration my recent fascination with weekend roasts. It began 3 weeks ago when I decided to braise a rather large brisket, enjoy a tasty dinner, and then live on the leftovers for a week to follow. In addition to the glorious fatness of a braised beef dinner, the resulting days of experimentation lead to the most gangster Bucatini Brisket. Then it was the holidays so it was only natural I find nearly 20 pounds of bird, brine that turkey, and unleash an unfinishable feast upon my family and friends. Like your Chem teacher with a bunson burner, I mad scientist'd my way into a firey, turkey club kafta.

Cue this weekend, and the launch of that other, oh so manly of activities, NFL playoff football. This was a next level. A simple piece of meat would no longer suffice. Bigger. Better. Faster. Stronger. I am flexing even as I type this.

And thus (with a little bit of assistance from "Its Always Sunny In Philadelphia") Rum Ham was born. Started things off with a sexy, skin on, bone-in, pork shoulder roast. Brined that bad boy in rosemary, sage, thyme, peppercorns, garlic, onion, sugar and salt. Timing required a 30 hour brine, so i busted out the pen and the pad and math'd my way into a lower seasoning-to-water ratio that kept everything in balance. How I came to having notes on all my previous brines is not important and should be ignored by the concerned reader. Fired up the oven to 450 and with the skin face up, docked the beast for 30 minutes of searing heat and removed to cool it down to 325. Its a key step in getting that eventual crackle into that just right state of crispy perfection. the next 5 hours were a slow bath in a baste of Havana Club 7 and pineapple juice.

And we weren't done there. Braised apples were to make that special side (which doubled as sauce). And with the braised apples being simmered in riesling, the final, most epic piece of the puzzle came to light. The guests assembled, the Seahawks spotted the Skins a 14 point lead, and I guided them through a 6 wine flight pitting the best of Niagara Rieslings vs 3 German counterparts.



We began with a 2011 Estate Riesling from Thirty Bench. Sous Chef and world traveller, Sir Alex Guido began right away calling out the distinct petrol notes jumping from the glass. Its a varietal signature I feel is central to the experience of Rieslings from both Niagara as well as Alsace. But those crazy krouts love their fruit-forward Rieslings and with our next glass we could see how these off-dry gob-monsters need some time to really show their stuff.

While super tasty, the 2011 St Urban Hof Kabinett riesling was mad young, and all that ripe fruit and residual sugar just masked what could be only assumed lied beneath.

Next up was the Vineland Estates St Urban Vineyard 2011 Riesling. This seemed to tie the best of both previous wines incredibly well and was instantly the crowd favourite. Oddly enough the one guest who didnt like the wine, was someone who I tasted this same wine with 2 months ago over a tasty lunch at Vineland Estates and found it one of that days bests. Its proof that there is no science to this. Wine is like our lovers. Some days we love them, others we loathe them. In wine as in romance, the best we get is something we always want to go back home to.

I cannot sum up wine 4 any better than Sir Alex Guido.



"Does anyone else find this wine reminds them of weed brownies?"

Best.Wine.Descriptor.Ever.

While I couldnt quite wrap my twisted brain around that number, the crowd built the bridge, bringing to light a buttery, baked goods side, that wrapped in the unctious fruit, gave birth to a momentous fan favourite. The 2007 Dr Herman Riesling Spatlese was as demonstrative as some old bearded deity parting the Red Sea for the Isrealites. There is no shame in fruit driven rieslings. In their youth they cannot hold a candle to the leaner, acid-driven styles of Niagara and Alsace, but give them time and something special can happen.

Something special was happening inside the glass tubes of my terribly antiquated television set too. Russel Wilson and the Seahawks were doing that thing that makes playoff football so incredible. They were playing for their lives (insofar as death is an early trip to the golf course and a possible ticket to the Pro Bowl in Hawaii).

As we rolled into round 5 we were most definitely burned out under an avalanche of pig fat and riesling. Pity then it was the round that showcased, MY pick of wine of the night with the 2010 Old Vines Riesling from 13th Street. I once made the comment that this wine reminds me of a 2001 Ostertag Heissenberg Riesling I recently enjoyed (read the last article for proof). The nose truly delivers this old school, Alsatian vibe, that I can only compare to listening to old Beach Boys records. while waxing ones 57 Chevy, upon returning from exploring the grimey wine caves of the Loire Valley. Cool beans.

We finished the flight with a 2005 Spatlese from Bollig-Lehnert. Not the best wine of the night, but the most fitting conclusion in the demonstration. Another off dry heavyweight, its most advanced age, really showed us what Riesling can do in time. Everyone is in such a hurry to age their Cabernet and Grenache that they forget whites like Riesling and Chenin Blanc are every bit worthy of that MILF treatment.

Behind the wine, the big game finally turned, a stubborn coach risking his clearly ailing franchise QB, leading to a collapse rivalled only by the kneee of Robert Griffin III. Those rugged upstart Seahawks gave birth to a new playoff legend. While Wade Davis and Jared Diamond warn us of the perils in the extinction of oral history through vanishing ancient language, a new digital history is being created before our eyes. New legends for a new world, telling that same story. That ongoing struggle in rising above our enemies and setbacks in salute to defiance and victory.

I'm thumping my chest. Believe that.