For white wine drinkers, there are few better places to investigate than these 2 regions in northern France. While the Rieslings and Gewurtztraminers of the Alsace are well known even to the wine novice, the Loire is an often unsung hero on this side of the pond.
Ranging from crisp dry whites from Atlantic coast to the famed Central Vinyards which produce the world standard in Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume), there is staggering diversity in both grapes and styles produced in the Loire. In addition to the great juice produced here, the Loire also stands as one of the great value regions in all of France with an endless list of great bottles available for under $20.
Sandwiched in between the coast and the Central Vinyards is my favorite Loire region, Touraine. There are 3 reasons why everyone should know Touraine. First, the understated elegance of Touraine Cabernet Franc. While Parisian bistros are abound with these light reds, the wines of Chinon & Bourgueil are hardly known on New World soils. Pity, as most of these highly impressive wines are available for under $15 a bottle. Secondly this region is famed as the home of Chenin Blanc, perhaps my favorite (and by light years the most versatile) white wine grape in the entire world. Vouvray stands as the pinnacle of what can be done with Chenin with a range of labels from dry, yet fruit driven palette cleansers, to honeysuckle desserts in a bottle, incredibly ALL from the same grape. Finally, while neighboring appelations like Sancerre and Pouilly Fume offer high end Sauvignon Blancs with prestine balance, the budget minded Sauv drinker may find the Sauvignon de Touraine's the greatest bargain since the internet started handing out free music.
The wines below were tasted in George Brown College's Wines I class on Alsace & The Loire. In addition to the 8 tasted in class I have included a few others from my own personal cellar that are also from the region. I wont bother with 100 point rating systems or anything of that self-important ilk. Merely suggestions of try, buy or pass.
1. Chateau De L'Ecochere Muscadet Sur Lie 2008
France - Loire - VINTAGES 169649 - $13.95
A shy nose does little justice to this classic example of seafood friendly muscadet. Once in the mouth there is a nice balance of melon against crisp citrus notes held up by a backbone of significant minerality. The medium bodyweight gives it some muscle that along with the vibrant acidity cries out oily deep fried oysters, calamari or even whitefish fried in bacon fat. Another noteworthy facet is its short finish, which alongside the acidity makes it the definitive aperatif wine. At this price you just cant lose with this simple yet effective number, though dont go cellaring this guy. Theres nothing here that suggests that this wine is going anywhere better with age, so get it in ya right off of the shelf.
Rating: Buy. (note: not a tonne left in the city other than at Broadview & Danforth)
2. Domaine De Saint-Pierre Sancerre 2008
France - Loire - VINTAGES 170258 - $24.95
An expressive nose leads the way to an abundance of aromas that followthrough upon tasting. From typical Sauvignon Blanc flavors like grass & gooseberry to some uncommon elements such as chamomile, zest of grapefruit, white pepper and melon with an elegant floral tone throughout. Bordering on extra dry this guy has that piquant acidity that just drives the mouth for seafood. Many of the same dishes mentioned before would apply here though the grassy herbaciousness begs for the hefty use of herbs in any dish you try. panfried pickerel with dill would be my pick but have fun with this one. Also a natural pair for herb-coated goat cheeses. The only downside is the price, as you are most definitely paying to have SANCERRE on the label. Its most definitely worth the 25 bucks, but not everyone has that in their everyday wine budget. Save this one for special ocasions or perhaps try wine #9 as an appropriate and budget minded substitute.
Rating: Try (unless of course you can afford it...then BUY)
3. Rene Mure Vorbourg Close St. Landelin Riesling 2005
France - Alsace - VINTAGES 75929 - $29.00
This guy drinks like a velvet waterslide descending the lush depths of honeysuckle, peach and apricot flavors with subtle notes of petrol and acidity to structure you descent. Its the very definition of what seperates even the most highly touted new world rieslings from their Alsacian counterparts in that at 5 years old this wine still is young in its evolution. To be honest this one is probably not worth drinking now but has all the signs of a wine that will continue to grow in the bottle for 5 to 10 years. Pair this one next to a pork roast with a honey reduction and David Copperfield will seem like a street hussler hiding the marble under 3 coconut shells in a dark London alley.
Rating: Try (though sit on it, LCBO never carries ageable wines that are entering their prime. Buy now and sit on it for 3 years....then thank me)
4. Robert Klingenfus Pinot Gris 2008
France - Alsace - VINTAGES 67157
While Pinot Grigio has become the white zin of the old world (and perhaps undeservedly given some of the more stellar examples) the Alsacian versions on this grape, pinot gris have often been overlooked despite their clearcut advantages in depth and complexity. Its here that the use of oak is done just right, adding a creamy mouthfeel without imparting the vanilla flavor components. This bottle is a pristine example with an uncannily creamy weight in the mouth, while the wine is allowed to express itself unhindered with layers of peach, apple and pear with an underlined peppery nuttyness that provides just the right balance. Before the sweltering June heatwaves this was by far my favorite white wine under $20. There is very little left in the city and with fall wrapping itself around the city I am not about to draw you a map to this guy only to have less for me. That said if you find it, buy it. And try it alongside either duck or butter chicken. Win.
Rating: Buy.
5. Domaine Laurent Malibeau Bourgueil 2008
France - Loire - VINTAGES 69666 - $13.95
A picture perfect example of Cabernet Franc from the Loire with a light body filled with raspberry, cherry, red liquorice and green herbs galore. This offering also carries a light hint of smoke and tobacco that presents a nice option for even more food pairings. This guy is a natural for charcuterie platters, carpaccios, stewed vegetables or even a simple roast beef sandwich.
Rating: Buy
6. Couly-Dutheil La Coulee Automnale Chinon 2007
France - Loire - VINTAGES 640771 - $15.95
There is little better way to get to know a grape than to compare it to other takes on that same grape. Here we have a strikingly different Cab Franc where the raspberry & cherry are still present, yet the green leaf and vegetal components come out for the big dance. This one is all about bell peppers & green leafy herbs. In some ways the lack of fruit almost takes something away from this one as it cant help but feel out of balance. It may well be a case that this one from 2007 is losing its legs (fruit is often the first thing to go on a fading wine) in contrast from the 2008 tasted before it. Regardless this type of vegetal heavy wine leans itself well to stewed vegetable dishes and I think would make a dreamlike partner with a horse carpaccio (my newest obsession and topic of a future post here on this blog).
Rating: Try.
7. Pierre Sparr Gewurtztraminer 2008
France - Alsace - LCBO 373373 - $16.60
I couldnt help but chuckle as this general list monster appeared on our tasting lineup. Now before my inner snob explodes I will say this. I have drank alot of this wine. ALOT of people seem to like this wine. As far as gews go, its a prototypical and not unpleasant blast of lychee & assorted sweet fruit with tonnes of peppery contrast and a rather enticing & lengthy finish. Truly its a perfect wine for a dinner party as its appeal is pretty wideranging and its pairs well with a broad range of food. Next time you're having friends over for Chinese takeout and Glee pop a few of these and you'll probably be a hero. All that said, having tasted the potential of this grape from so many better, more refined & more focused producers, I just cant get excited about this wine anymore. Its like Rihanna. Throw on her new disc at a party and just about everyone will start dancing their ass off. Yet I'm the guy at the party who'll take his 4 closest friends to a quiet room downstairs, break out the jambox and groove out to Otis Redding. Please and Thank you.
Rating: Try (Cuz I dont have it in my heart to say buy...but for most it probably is)
8. Domaine Les Grande Vignes Bonnezeaux Le Malabe 2005
France - Loire - VINTAGES 83519 - $65.00
You truly haven't lived until you've tasted the immaculate collaboration between deep sweetness & zippy acidity the likes of which have made Sauternes the worlds most sought after dessert wine. While we here in Ontario love to sing the praises of our Niagra icewines, by their very nature they lake that acidity which produces such luxerious harmony. Personally I feel Niagra's late harvest offerings are a far greater example of the Niagra portfolio and would really put us on the world map, but alas I am not responsible for the branding of Niagra wine so I digress. Here with this wine we see the unmatched potential of the supergrape Chenin Blanc, presented here a world apart from Chenin used to make tongue-wagging Vouvray. Quince, honey, apple caramel and a stoney minerality dance together like a Phillipino prison re-enacting Michael Jackson's "Thriller". Its a dessert wine of the finest calibre and was truly the crown jewel of this tasting. While seemingly cost prohibitive, remind yourself that this is a full bottle, not the typical half bottle. And think, what did you pay for that last half bottle of icewine? This outworldly tasty and unique wine experience is worth every cent and frankly is a bargain. HIT THAT.
Rating: BUY.
9. Buisse Couvee Prestige Sauvignon Touraine 2009
Fance - Loire - VINTAGES 169794 - $11.95
Fans of Sancerre who cant really afford to keep it in their wine budget, pay close attention. One of the cheapest wines available in Vintages, this fantastic bargain wine is grown directly neighboring the famed vinyards of Sancerre. Yet without the international hype machine, the wines here sell on value and this is a terrific example. gooseberry, grass, guava & green apple dance around this light crisp yet fiesty number in a way that makes both flexible as either an aperatif or a food partner. Everything that makes Sancerre and Pouilly Fume so esteemed minus the robbery at the teller. Try this with a mustard glazed black cod with a lemon reduction and a side of steamed mussels. Game. Blouses.
Rating: BUY.
So here at last is the end of this little journey through northern French wine country. It was a pretty good crop with very little dissapointment. Though really thats simply reflective of the region. There's a lot of great things coming from here. Not to say the ratio is always this good, because its not. But it is close.
Let me know your thoughts on these wines or others from this region you've tried recently.
